Tag Archive | "boeuf bourguignon"

Judith Jones Serves Up Dinner for One


For cookbook fanatics, Judith Jones needs no introduction. She is the editor who shaped the writing of some of our favorite cookbook authors, including Julia Child and James Beard. She also co-authored three books with husband Evan Jones, including “The Book of Bread: Knead It, Punch It, Bake It!”

But when Evan died in 1996, she found herself in a void when it came to cooking. Food had, for a while, lost its flavor for her because there was no one to share a meal with day in and day out. “I was not sure that I would ever enjoy preparing a meal for myself and eating alone,” she writes. “I was wrong, and I soon realized that the pleasure that we shared together was something to honor. I found myself at the end of the day looking forward to cooking, making recipes that work for one, and then sitting down and savoring a good meal.”

So, Jones set out to create “The Pleasures of Cooking for One” (Alfred A. Knopf, $27.95). Her audience for this book extends beyond the recently widowed like herself. More than half the population of New York lives alone, Jones writes. The rest of the country is not entirely different. There are students, young professionals starting out and even some married folk who prepare meals regularly only for themselves. Then there are those of us, myself included, who enjoy living alone. We are all potentially part of Jones’ target circle.

Recipe: Osso Buco With Gremolata

But Jones doesn’t want all of us. She is only interested in the serious home cook. “It isn’t a cookbook for what Julia Child used to call ‘the flimsies’ – that is, people who aren’t genuinely interested in cooking and want fast and easy recipes and shortcuts at the expense of taste. This book is for those of who want to roll up your sleeves and enjoy, from day to day, one of the great satisfactions of life.”

So, be prepared, single foodies, to make a Small Meatloaf With a  French Accent, Fillet of Fish in Parchment, Osso Buco With Gremolata, or Steamed Mussels.  Dessert lovers will flip for the Individual Apple Tart, Pear Crisp or Summer Pudding.

If you don’t want to tackle a new dish every day, Jones offers a series of recipes where you cook a large cut of meat one day and either reheat the remainder or use  it in different ways until it’s gone. So, imagine stewing Boeuf Bourguignon for one, then incorporating the leftovers in a Beef and Kidney Pie or a meaty pasta sauce. It’s a technique that reminded me of Robert Farrar Capon’s “The Supper of the Lamb” from the 1960s, and it still works today.

The book is sprinkled liberally with cooking tips and hints on topics such as “Ways of Using Up Milk” or “Duxelles: A Way of Preserving Your Mushrooms.”

Recipe: Mayonnaise

Here’s her advice on cleanup: “One of the complaints I hear about home cooking is that it’s so messy and time-consuming, particularly all that washing up. And just for one? Most recipes call for more bowls than you may have on your shelf. I find that if you line things up on a work surface close to your stove, you don’t need all those bowls. And in making recipes for breads, pastries and the like, wax paper comes in very handy. You can toss the dry ingredients together on a large piece of wax paper, then pick it up carefully, and funnel the dry ingredients into the bowl of your mixer while it is running.”

What I’m most grateful for in this book may come as a surprise. It’s Jones’ recipe for mayonnaise, which uses a food processor. I was once told not to use this method because the motor overheats the mixture and it never sets up. Yet her version works, and you don’t have a great deal left over, so there’s no waste involved.

No matter how many people you’re feeding – and Jones’ recipes can be easily doubled or tripled–“The Pleasures of Cooking for One” proves to be pure pleasure for mind and for palate.

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The Best Recipes From 2009


SavorSA wasn’t online for an entire year, but we have served enough pleasures to give you a year-end wrap-up of what we consider our best recipes.

They range from a hearty Parmesan bread made from leftovers to a complex recipe from Julia Child for her mouthwatering Boeuf Bourguignon. If you saw the movie “Julie & Julia,” you know just how seductive this recipe is from the visuals alone.

Some of the dishes are quite simple (a grilled cheese), others need a little time but are well worth the effort (a flourless chocolate cake).

Yet all of the recipes are keepers, ones that we return to and hope you will, too. Here, in no order, are the top recipes:

Pickle Recipe: Cucumber Apple Pickles

Pickle Recipe: Cucumber Apple Pickles

Recipe: Grilled Shrimp With Piri-Piri Sauce

Recipe: Grilled Shrimp With Piri-Piri Sauce

Recipe: Fruit Tart

Recipe: Fruit Tart

Recipe: Grilled Cheese With Tomato, Basil and Garlic

Recipe: Grilled Cheese With Tomato, Basil and Garlic

Herbed Buttermilk Parmesan Bread

Recipe: Herbed Buttermilk Parmesan Bread

Recipe: Julia Child's Boeuf

Recipe: Julia Child's Boeuf Bourguignon

Recipe: Beat-the-heat Gazpacho

Recipe: Beat-the-heat Gazpacho

CMHatchContest5

Recipe: Flourless Chocolate Cherry Hatch Cake

Recipe: Spicy Pumpkin Soup

Recipe: Rosario’s Shrimp Nachos

Recipe: Rosario’s Shrimp Nachos

Recipe: Tre Trattoria's Italian White Beans With Gremolata

Recipe: Tre Trattoria's Italian White Beans With Gremolata

Recipe: Pork Green Chile

Recipe: Sweet Potato Cinnamon Rolls

Recipe: Edith’s Gingerbread

What was the best recipe you made in 2009?

Please share it with us.

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Happy Birthday, Julia Child


julia-child-special

Click to enlarge.

Cooking great Julia Child was born on Aug. 15, 1912. That means she would have been 97 this Saturday.

To celebrate her culinary genius, we’re asking you to do something in her honor and share the details in a post below. You could cook one of her recipes, watch the film “Julie & Julia” at the theaters, or dine out on a favorite dish you associate with her.

COCO Chocolate Lounge and Bistro, 18402 U.S. 281, is one place offering a dish in her memory. Boeuf bourguignon is the restaurant’s special this weekend for $19. Reservations are recommended and can be made by calling (210) 491-4480.

Whatever you do, don’t forget the butter. It was one of Julia’s favorites.

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Julia Child’s Recipe for Boeuf Bourguignon


b-r0006Many of the people we spoke with after preview screenings of “Julie & Julia” had one thing on their minds: boeuf bourguignon. The hearty beef stew is a centerpiece of one of the movie’s more appetizing food scenes.

Jessica Young was so inspired by the movie that she went out in search of her own copy of “Mastering the Art of French Cooking. “I’m obsessed,” she says. “Since the movie I have been lucky enough to find a 14th printing of her first cookbook in Half Price Books (I love that it is used …) and I made beef bourguignon, which I have to say is very delicious!”

COCO Chocolate Lounge and Bistro, 18402 U.S. 281 N., Suite 114, is serving the dish tonight, Aug. 7, as a special.

But if you would rather try it at home, like Julie Powell and Jessica Young, here is Julia Child’s original recipe, lightly adapted  from “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” and complete with her comments:

Boeuf Bourguignon
Boeuf a la Bourguignonne
[Beef Stew in Red Wine, with Bacon, Onions, and Mushrooms]

As is the case with most famous dishes, there are more ways than one to arrive at a good boeuf bourguignon. Carefully done, and perfectly flavored, it is certainly one of the most delicious beef dishes concocted by man, and can well be the main course for a buffet dinner. Fortunately, you can prepare it completely ahead, even a day in advance, and it only gains in flavor when reheated.

Vegetable and wine suggestions: Boiled potatoes are traditionally served with this dish. Buttered noodles or steamed rice may be substituted. If you also wish a green vegetable, buttered peas would be your best choice. Serve with the beef a fairly full-bodied, young red wine, such as Beaujolais, Cotes du Rhone, Bordeaux-St. Émilion or Burgundy.

For 6 people.

  • A 6-ounce chunk of bacon

Remove rind, and cut bacon into lardoons (sticks, ¼-inch thick and 1 1/2-inches long). Simmer rind and bacon for 10 minutes in 1 ½ quarts of water. Drain and dry.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

  • A 9- to 10-inch fireproof casserole 3 inches deep
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil or cooking oil
  • A slotted spoon

Sauté the bacon in the oil over moderate heat for 2 to 3 minutes to brown lightly. Remove to a side dish with a slotted spoon. Set casserole aside. Reheat until fat is almost smoking before you sauté the beef.

  • 3 pounds lean stewing beef cut into 2-inch cubes

Dry the beef in paper towels; it will not brown if it is damp. Sauté it, a few pieces at a time, in the hot oil and bacon fat until nicely browned on all sides. Add it to the bacon.

  • 1 sliced carrot
  • 1 sliced onion

In the same fat, brown the vegetables. Pour out the sautéing fat.

  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • ¼ teaspoon pepper
  • 2 tablespoons flour

Return the beef and bacon to the casserole and toss with the salt and pepper. Then sprinkle on the flour. Set casserole uncovered in middle position of pre-heated oven for 4 minutes. Toss the meat and return to oven for 4 minutes more. (This browns the flour and covers the meat with a light crust.) Remove casserole, and turn oven down to 325 degrees.

  • 3 cups of a full-bodied young red wine, such as one of those suggested for serving, or a Chianti
  • 2 to 3 cups brown beef stock or canned beef bouillon
  • 1 tablespoon tomato paste
  • 2 cloves mashed garlic
  • ½ teaspoon thyme
  • A crumbled bay leaf
  • The blanched bacon rind

Stir in the wine and enough stock or bouillon so that the meat is barely covered. Add the tomato paste, garlic, herbs and bacon rind. Bring to simmer on top of the stove. Then cover the casserole and set in lower third of pre-heated oven. Regulate heat so liquid simmers very slowly for 2 ½ to 3 hours. The meat is done when a fork pierces it easily.

  • 18 to 24 small white onions, brown-braised in stock.
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1/2 cup beef stock
  • salt & fresh ground pepper
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 sprig thyme
  • 2 sprigs parsley
  • 1 pound fresh mushrooms, quartered
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil

While the beef is cooking, prepare the onions and mushrooms.

Heat the butter and oil in a large skillet and add the onions to the skillet. Sauté over medium heat for about ten minutes, rolling the onions about so they brown as evenly as possible, without breaking apart. Pour in the stock, season to taste, add the herbs, and cover. Simmer over low heat for about 40 to 50 minutes until the onions are perfectly tender but retain their shape and the liquid has mostly evaporated. Remove the herbs and set the onions aside.

For the mushrooms, heat the butter and oil over high heat in a large skillet. As soon as the foam begins to subside add the mushrooms and toss and shake the pan for about five minutes. As soon as they have browned lightly, remove from heat. Set the mushrooms aside until needed.

When the meat is tender, pour the contents of the casserole into a sieve set over a saucepan. Wash out the casserole and return the beef and bacon to it. Distribute the cooked onions and mushrooms over the meat.

Skim the fat off the sauce. Simmer sauce for a minute or two, skimming off additional fat as it rises. You should have about 2 ½ cups of sauce thick enough to coat a spoon lightly. If too thin, boil it down rapidly. If too thick, mix in a few tablespoons of stock or canned bouillon. Taste carefully for seasoning. Pour the sauce over the meat and vegetables. (Recipe may be completed in advance to this point.)

  • Parsley sprigs

For immediate serving: Cover the casserole and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, basting the meat and vegetables with the sauce several times. Serve in its casserole, or arrange the stew on a platter surrounded with potatoes, noodles, or rice and decorated with parsley.

For later serving: When cold, cover and refrigerate. About 15 to 20 minutes before serving, bring to the simmer, cover and simmer very slowly for 10 minutes, occasionally basting the meat and vegetables with the sauce.

From knopfdoubleday.com and www.RecipeZaar.com.

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‘Julie & Julia’: Like the Best Soufflé, Sheer Enjoyment


pk-17

Meryl Streep as "Julia Child" in Columbia Pictures' JULIE & JULIA.

We wonder if it is necessary, after all the talk leading up to “Julie & Julia,” to explain who the two women whose names are in the title are. But just in case you’ve been dozing off during food discussions lately, we’ll introduce them. They are Julia Child, the famous chef who died in 2004, and a disciple whom she never met, Julie Powell.

Child came to fame by starting at the Cordon Bleu in Paris, then slaving over a book, with Simone Beck, that would eventually be published in two volumes and become a culinary classic, “Mastering the Art of French Cooking.” Many more books and cooking classes, and eventually a television career, made Child a household name. She was truly a legend in her own time – for years – and barely had time to slow down before she died at the age of 91.

pk-05Julie Powell stepped into the limelight over a period of one year. She utilized a new-media, new-millennium approach to fame — writing a daily blog. This site would eventually attract thousands to read about what was not just a culinary journey but a personal one — a sort of cyberspace version of reality television.

So, what most of us already know about Julia Child is her love of cream and butter, her face and hair and voice, her height, her fine carriage. We remember her humor and sheer love of food. Now that she’s gone, this is ours to own, her legacy to us, along with the many books and videotapes that will keep her name alive. We might not have known that her personal life was as passionate as her cooking, with a supportive husband, Paul (Stanley Tucci of that other foodie film classic, “Big Night”) doting on his Amazon every moment of their married life.

Julie Powell is more of an unknown. She was born up the road in Austin. She and her husband had made a difficult move to Manhattan. Her job is stultifying, the apartment is small and unlovely. She’s a writer, but what has she written? Not much, she complains to her husband. Finally, to fight the despair of not doing something she honestly loves, she decides to cook her way though “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” and document the experience. She, too, is married to someone who loves her madly, though he makes it clear that he prefers sex and dinner on a regular basis to awaiting the increasingly irregular meal, not ready to eat until the wee hours of the morning.

The women’s stories offer numerous parallels, which writer-director Nora Ephron ladles out in homespun, often hilarious ways that aren’t subtle but are as comforting as a helping of boeuf bourguignon. Not only that, the movement back and forth between the two lives is masterfully done; the transitions are seamless.

pk-22This film isn’t like Ephron’s earlier marriage film with a foodie title, “Heartburn.” In fact, the domestic bliss that Julia Child lives is refreshingly free of strife and as welcome as one of the butter sauces that sends Child into a swoon.

Helping matters immeasurably is Meryl Streep’s Julia Child, who is lovely, charming, nearly indefatigable and never defeated. The snooty woman who headed the famous Cordon Bleu cooking school that Child attended in Paris never accepted the American, despite the fact that her male classmates soon grew to admire her determination. The role had to be an actor’s dream — to portray someone so many of us knew and loved, and to show us some of the things we may not have been aware of. Streep nails the accent, the much imitated, burbly tones that would become a Child trademark.

But more than that, Streep captures Child’s joie de vivre. Her larger-than-life effervescence matches Child’s 6-foot-2 height.

pk-13

Amy Adams and Chris Messina as "Eric and Julie Powell"

Amy Adams has the tougher role to perform, because Powell isn’t always that likable. Young, unfocused and, well, whiny, the blogger comes across as the opposite of Child. She wants to find herself — and find herself quickly, at that — yet she relies too much on others to help her. The blog idea is her husband’s, the money for the project soon comes from external sources, she lies to her boss. Yet (spoiler alert) she alone makes every recipe in Child’s book essentially on her own, right down to stuffing the live lobsters into the boiling water, with the oh-so-right Talking Heads’ “Psycho Killer” on the soundtrack.

Powell has been criticized by some as capitalizing on Child’s fame. But doesn’t every creative person stand on someone’s shoulders at some point in his or her career? To her credit, Powell’s homage to Child is more than evident in her words and deeds every step of the way. Child is her inspiration, her mentor, friend and teacher. The fact that it was her ticket to fame wasn’t the reason she set out to do the blog.

pk-09Most of you reading this review are probably more interested in the food than anything else the movie has to offer. Let us just say this: “Julie & Julia” will make you hunger for more than most cinema snack bars offer. The food scenes, in fact, make up for the shock therapy of “Food, Inc.” and other recent documentaries about our food supply. Linger on the images of chocolate pie filling poured slowly into a crust. Or of perfect boeuf bourguignon emerging from an oven. Amazingly enough, even the scene of trussing a boned duck, something most of us would never try, manages to coax a smile while kick-starting your taste buds.

In this area, “Julie & Julia” rises like the airiest soufflé, a dish that manages to be ethereal and joyously rich at the same time.

John Griffin contributed to this review

(Photos Jonathan Wenk / Columbia Pictures )

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