A seafood display greets diners.

We were eager to get a look at Lüke, the new River Walk restaurant ensconced at one end of the Embassy Suites. It’s the sister of the acclaimed brasserie run by chef John Besh in New Orleans. At the helm here is Besh’s former sous chef, Stephen McHugh.

So we dropped by for lunch Friday, a beautiful fall day that was warm enough to sit outside. But we chose inside to get a good look at the ambiance of this newly constructed restaurant.

The interior has a turn-of-the-century (that would be the 1899-1900) feel with plenty of polished wood, metal-trimmed lamps and lighting, and bistro tables and chairs. A huge, fresh seafood display welcomes guests who come in from the Houston Street entrance. It’s at the end of a long, glossy stretch of bar while a herringbone pattern of mixed woods decorates the floor.

Cochon de Lait at Lüke.

Service was snappy and pleasant, the view from our table to the foliage on the river was brilliant in the early afternoon sunshine.

The fries arrive standing in a paper-lined cup.

The food measured up to our expectations. Lüke’s burger (cooked to order and topped with smoky bacon) was delicious. The beef was dense with good, beefsteak flavor. We liked that it was served exactly as we wanted it, a perfect medium, and that it came on a cutting board with a very sharp Languiole knife so that we could quarter it and pass it around.

A Cochon de Lait (literally “pig in milk” or, more  loosely, “suckling pig”) sandwich was spectacular. The juicy, tender pork was laid over slices of ham with mustard and pickles. The New Orleans version of a Cuban sandwich, it was served with a thick mash of sauce on the side. It was a little sweet—our only criticism of the day.

Both came with excellent fries, not too soft and not too crunchy. Dipped in mayo, they were just right, though they might be even better in the evening when paired with one of the many beer choices from the brasserie’s well-chosen list.

Lüke's burger voted one of nation's best by Travel and Leisure magazine last year.

Mango and Brie Quesadillas (front) with Baked Brie.

Place the brie in the freezer before peeling and the rind will come off quicker, says Emily Carlos of the Central Market Cooking School. It will also make the brie easier to slice.

Mango and Brie Quesadillas

8 (6-inch) flour tortillas
1 pound firm brie cheese, rind removed, cut into very thin wedges
2 medium mangoes, peeled and cut into 32 thin slices
1 large avocado, peeled, seeded and cut into thin slices
4 green onions and tops, sliced thin (optional)

Lay the flour tortillas on work surface. Divide cheese wedges into 8 equal portions (about 2 ounces each). Arrange a portion of the cheese wedges on the lower half of each tortilla. Place 4 mango slices on top of the cheese wedges. Top with several slices of avocado. Scatter an equal portion of the green onions, if using,  over the mango and avocado slices. Fold the top half of each tortilla over the filling and press down firmly. Place the quesadillas on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet.

Heat a flat-top griddle to medium high. Place the quesadillas on the grilled, cheese side down, and grill until cheese begins to melt, about 2 1/2 minutes. Carefully turn them over and grill on the other side until filling is warm and quesadillas are sealed together by the melted cheese, another 2 1/2 minutes. Remove  from grill and slice each quesadilla into three wedges. Return to baking sheet and keep warm in an oven on a low temperature. When ready to serve, arrange on a platter.

Makes 24 wedges.

From “Don Strange of Texas” by Frances Strange and Terry Thompson-Anderson

Frances Strange addresses a sold-out cooking class at Central Market.

Brie is a favorite appetizer for many because it’s easy to work with. Just wrap the cheese in puff pastry and bake until ready.

But that’s not the only way to serve this creamy favorite.

During a recent Central Market cooking class, Frances Strange of Don Strange of Texas offered two different yet tasty brie recipes that go together quickly and can be done in advance. That will leave you with plenty of time to  spend with your guests.

That’s the point of entertaining at the holidays or any time of year: “Don’t let the little things stop you from being with the people who mean something to you,” she said.

So, make some Mango and Brie Quesadillas, in which the cheese melts into avocado slices as well as the juicy fruit. Or try a Baked Brie without the pastry but with sun-dried tomatoes and fresh basil.

When making the quesadillas, it’s easier to work with the cheese after  it’s been in the freezer for a short while, cooking school instructor Emily Carlos said. The cheese is harder, so it can been peeled and sliced quickly. That approach would also work for the Baked Brie, as well.

Mango and Brie Quesadillas (right) with Baked Brie.

Giving you the confidence to entertain in style is what Frances Strange hopes to offer in her new book, “Don Strange of Texas: His Life and Recipes” (Shearer Publishing, $34.95), written with Terry Thompson-Anderson.

“There’s talk of a second edition and it’s only been out a week,” she said, slightly awed at the response it has received.

Good food is always welcome, but that’s not the secret to a memorable party, said Strange, whose family has been in the catering business for decades. It’s something she learned from her husband, Don, who built the nationally recognized business without “one minute of food training.”

“It’s not about the food, it’s about the people you’re with,” she said.

Baked Brie (front) and Mango and Brie Quesadillas

If you don’t have a springform pan, use a regular 8-inch pan and spread the brie on the toast rounds before serving,  says Joel L. Barohn, who works for the Central Market Cooking School.

Do not toast the almonds before baking, because they will burn in the oven.

Baked Brie

1 (8-inch) wheel brie cheese
1 cup sour cream
1 teaspoon kosher salt
5 green onions and tops, sliced thin
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups sun-dried tomatoes, chopped
1/3 cup minced fresh parsley
1/3 cup minced fresh basil
1 cup skin-on sliced almonds
Toasted French bread rounds

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line the bottom of an 8-inch springform cake pan with parchment paper. Spray parchment and side of pan with nonstick cooking spray; set aside.

Remove all the  rind from the cheese. Using a thin-bladed slicing knife, cut the cheese wheel in half horizontally. Place the bottom half, cut side up, in the parchment-lined pan. In a medium bowl, combine the sour cream, salt, green onions and garlic, whisking to blend well. Spread half of the mixture on top of the cheese. Top with half of the sun-dried tomatoes and all of the parsley and basil. Place the remaining half of the cheese on top of the tomatoes, cut side down. Top with the remaining sun-dried tomatoes, sour cream mixture and the sliced almonds.

Bake in preheated oven until almonds are browned and the brie is very soft, about 15 minutes. Remove pan from oven and place on wire rack. Allow to cool until lukewarm, then remove sides of pan and slide brie onto a serving platter. Serve with a basket of toasted French bread rounds.

Makes 14-18 finger-food servings.

From “Don Strange of Texas” by Frances Strange and Terry Thompson-Anderson