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‘The Way to Cook’

stock0007The Way To Be.

That is not the title of the cookbook, it is more my feeling about Julia Child.  I remember watching her in an interview on a late night show when she was promoting “The Way To Cook.”  The interviewer/comedian was fishing for a funny situation or material for a quick joke when he asked, “So if someone follows the recipe in your book and it doesn’t work, what did they do wrong?”

That is a type of question that would make many people search their minds for the answer he wanted.  Not Julia.  She told him in a matter of fact way that if they follow the recipes in her book, it would work.  He tried again, with a “yeah, but what if” line and she came back to her point.  Then she said all of the recipes were tried and true, that it is the way to cook.

That was the “bingo” for the interviewer.  He shrugged, held up her book showing the title and said he guessed she had a point.  He got his laugh.

I was already a fan of Julia, so I bought a copy of “The Way to Cook.”  After looking at many recipes, using her master recipe highlighted shorts for reference, and preparing many of the dishes listed, it dawned on me that it was the way to cook.

The following recipe for tomatoes works with the beautiful offerings at farmers markets now.  It also includes a classic Julia view on using your little finger.

The book notes that the slight acidity of the tomato blends especially well with red meats, and especially with roast lamb.  “In addition, Tomatoes Provençale are attractive with brunch dishes such as omelets or scrambled eggs.  For this easy recipe, stuff them in advance, and bake them just before serving.”

Stuffed Tomatoes Provençale

For 8 tomato halves:
4 large fine firm ripe tomatoes
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup lightly pressed down crumbs from fresh homemade type white bread
2 tablespoons minced shallots or scallions
1 large clove garlic, puréed
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley
3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil

Special equipment suggested: A rack for draining the tomatoes; a lightly oiled baking dish that will hold them.

Preparing the tomatoes for stuffing:  Cut the tomatoes in half (not through the stem).  Gently squeeze them to remove excess juice; dig out the seeds with your little finger. Salt and pepper the insides lightly and turn upside down on a rack to drain while you prepare the stuffing.

The stuffing: Toss the breadcrumbs with the shallots or scallions, garlic, parsley, and salt and pepper to taste, blending in droplets of olive oil as you do so.

Divide the stuffing into 8 portions and mound into each tomato; arrange the tomatoes in the baking dish. Drizzle a little more oil over the crumbs, if you wish.

Ahead-of-time note:  May be prepared in advance to this point.

Baking:  Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.  About 20 minutes before serving, bake in the upper third level until the crumbs are lightly browned and the tomatoes are hot through but still hold their shape.  Serve them soon, since they risk a collapse if kept warm.

From “The Way To Cook” by Julia Child

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