Clams with Spicy Ginger Sauce.

If you know someone who has not tried Vietnamese food because it seems too exotic, then take him or her to Le Bistro Saigon  on TPC Parkway.

Crispy Vietnamese Eggrolls

The ambience of the place is cool and inviting, with granite tabletops and chairs easy to relax in. The food is so visually attractive it will make your mouth water. With each succeeding dish that our waiter brought out of the kitchen, your appetite will grow because everything looks so good.

The flavors are all quite accessible, too, with garlic and chiles (serranos and jalapeños used most) mixing with citrus-y lemon grass and basil in dishes. Plus, who can resist the comfort of noodles mixed with anything?

But the folks at Le Bistro Saigon appear to be content with limiting themselves to be a Vietnamese 101 kind of place. And that timidity is not what we’ve come to expect from many of the other Vietnamese places in town. Nothing we sampled in seven dishes was bad, but nothing was all that bright, bold or, ultimately, memorable, either. Dishes marked with a red chile were rarely hotter than those not marked. Too many sauces were perfunctory, a little on the dull side even. And sugar was a little too prevalent.

Vietnamese Fried Calamari

We started our meal with Vietnamese Fried Calamari ($7.50), which did not have enough seafood flavor so the breading, light as it was, tended  to dominate. But an accompanying carrot sauce, with a good balance of sweet and tart, was so good we kept it to use with other dishes.

Crispy Vietnamese Eggrolls ($4.99) were not as greasy as you’ll find elsewhere, and that’s not a good thing. The pork, vegetables and even the rice paper were all wan, even after dousing them with a touch of fish sauce that we had to ask for (the accompanying dipping sauce was far too sweet and did little but make the eggrolls soggy).

A Thai-influenced Beef with Garlic Lime Sauce ($8.99) was not quite as it was advertised on the menu. The beef was raw, not rare, but it was tossed with a lively combination of basil, onion and serrano peppers. The texture of the meat was both mealy and slick from the oil in the dressing, and it almost seemed unnecessary when compared with the freshness of what surrounded it.

Lemongrass Baby Back Ribs

For our entrées, we shared an order of Lemon Grass Baby Back Ribs ($14.99) and all agreed that there was little lemon grass flavor to be had. The rib bites, breaded and deep-fried, had the right amount of salt, but that was about all they had to recommend.

Charbroiled pork ($8.99) with noodles, carrots, cucumber, peanuts, fried shallots and herbs held a lot of promise, until we tasted the pork. Candied might have been a better description than charbroiled, for sugar seems to have been the dominant characteristic of the marinade. Still, a little fish sauce, some sriracha and salt helped matters quite a bit.

We also ordered Buddha Delight ($8.99), one of the vegetarian entrées, so we would have plenty of vegetables to share. A stir-fry of broccoli, carrots, green bell pepper, snow peas, bamboo, water chestnuts, baby corn and not enough  mushrooms was well prepared, but a gloppy and not terribly flavorful brown sauce detracted rather  than added to the vegetables’ effectiveness.

Buddha Delight

The Clams with Spicy Ginger Sauce ($13.99) should have been the highlight of the meal. It arrived in a clay pot straight from the oven, and a cloud of steam arose dramatically when the lid was removed with a flourish. But the clams didn’t seem to cook with the sauce, which tasted more of garlic than ginger.  The little crustaceans appeared on top and, as a result, were on the dry side. Spooning up the sauce did not help.

There weren’t many patrons eating in while we were there, but takeout business was fairly brisk. The wine list was not worth pursuing, so we opted for a pair of refreshing Singha and Kirin Ichiban beers, which are made for both Asian food and days as hot as we get in Texas.

Le Bistro Saigon
3111 TPC Parkway
(210) 481-7400
Open daily for lunch and dinner
www.le-bistrosaigon.com

The vegan diet fascinates me, despite the amount of pork that I consume. But the more I read about it, the less appetizing it appears. That’s because a recent spate of vegan cookbooks are loaded with a combination of all the foods I can’t eat with a few I don’t care to eat all thrown together.

There's nothing like vegetables at their freshest.

The last three or four I’ve picked up have all been carbohydrate heavy, filled with mixtures of flour, rice, potatoes and corn, all foods forbidden to someone trying to keep his diabetes under control. And with all that flour, recipe after recipe sounded drier than the last, until it got to the point where none of it sounded good to me.

Plus, I won’t eat tofu, that inexplicable bastion of vegan living. Outside of the occasional bowl of miso soup or fried tofu at a sushi bar, tofu has a texture so nasty, slimy and phlegm-like that the mere mention of it can prompt a gag reflex.

What happened to the vegetables?

The cookbooks were so concerned with copycat meat-like substances, all of which sounded horrible, that the vegetables in the vegan diet seemed to have disappeared.

The authors were more interested in what I call quote foods, substances like vegan “bacon” and wheat “meat.” Vegan “hot dogs” aren’t even in the ballpark in terms of flavor. Then there’s the nastiest of all, “tofurkey.” Turkey is bad enough, with dessicated breast meat too often akin to sawdust. But it all begs the question: If you are giving up meat because you don’t want animals harmed, why would you want to eat something reminiscent of a slaughtered animal? Why not have the courage of your convictions and give up the thought of meat? Or cheese? Or butter?

Why would I keep reading about this? Because, most days, one or two of the three meals I eat are vegan. Plus, there’s something about the vibrancy and vitality of raw foods that I find irresistible.

And whether raw or cooked, I’m always looking for a new way to prepare whatever is in season, from radishes and red peppers to cauliflower and cabbage.

The raw mushroom avocado burger at Vegeria.

I was hoping to find a few ideas at Vegeria Vegan Tex-Mex and American Cuisine, 8407 Broadway, San Antonio’s only vegan restaurant, which I visited recently. A glance at the menu bore out what the cookbooks made clear. The majority of foods were like flautas and enchiladas with too much corn, nachos, chips, potato cakes, and tofu “egg” salad. Even the salads were carb heavy, laden with the likes of black beans, quinoa and tofu.

But there was also a raw menu, and though it only had three items, each sounded great.

Raw brownie

I ended up with a raw burger with portobello mushrooms taking the place of bread, and the interior was filled with flavor-packed guacamole, lettuce, tomato, onion and, yes, raw cashew “cheese,” which really wasn’t bad.

I also had a cup of an excellent spicy lentil soup and a raw brownie, made with plenty of coconut for dessert. (There were carbs in the latter because dried dates were used, but the natural flavor of the fruit was apparent.)

Lentil soup and salad at Vegeria.

I would hope Vegeria’s talented cooking staff would delve more into the realm of vegetables without all the unnecessary additions. What can you do with braised radishes? Or a mix of spinach, mustard greens and collards? Where are the beets and the cauliflower? Or whatever else is fresh at the farmers markets?

San Antonio is hungry for a greater variety, but with more than 10 percent of the population suffering from diabetes, we need some choices that are healthful for us, too.

Key Lime Pie

Q. My fiance wants a key lime pie. Should I buy him one or make it myself?

—HH

A. We can’t answer that for you, but we can certainly give you recommendations in both areas.

If you decide to buy, then look no further than the Sandbar at the Pearl Brewery, 200 E. Grayson St., where chef Chris Carlson serves up a key lime tart that is bright with flavor yet silky on the palate. It is second to none in the city’s restaurants. For more information, call (210) 222-2426.

If you want to make your own key lime pie, then you can follow a recipe my family has used for years. It comes from southern Florida, where people take their key lime pie seriously. To be more specific, it comes from the cookbook produced by the famous Miami restaurant, Joe’s Stone Crab. The owners of the restaurant refused to part with their recipe, but Richard Sax, who co-wrote the restaurant’s cookbook with owner Jo Ann Bass, could not envision the cookbook without it, so he came up with a version of the dessert, based on his attempts to copy the original as closely as possible.

A few suggestions when making the pie:

Whip the egg yolks on the highest speed your mixer will allow and keep whipping them for at least 5 minutes. And keep the mixer on high even while drizzling in the sweetened evaporated milk.

Take seriously the suggestion to get the pie as cold as possible by popping it into the freezer for at least 15 minutes before serving. The addition of ice crystals to the texture and the way it awakens the lime flavors make this even more irresistible.

Of course, you can used a store-bought graham cracker crust. Just don’t skimp on the fresh squeezed lime juice in favor of something from the store. There is a huge difference.

By the way, key lime pie is not green; it is yellow. It only has flecks of green from the lime zest. Some people add food color to make it green, which we don’t recommend except on St. Patrick’s Day.

Key Lime Pie

Graham cracker crust:
1 wax paper-wrapped package graham crackers (1/3 of a 1-pound box) or 1 cup plus 2 1/2 tablespoons graham cracker crumbs
5 tablespoons melted unsalted butter
1/3 cup sugar

Filling:
3 egg yolks
Grated zest of 2 limes (about 1 1/2 teaspoons)
1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk, such as Eagle Brand
2/3 cup freshly squeezed lime juice (use key limes if you can)

Topping:
1 cup heavy or whipping cream
3 tablespoons powdered sugar

You can use a store-bought crust or make your own.

For the crust: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9-inch pie pan. Break up the graham crackers; place in a food processor and process to crumbs. (If you don’t have a food processor,, place the crackers in a large plastic bag; seal and then crush the crackers with a rolling pin.) Add the melted butter and sugar and pulse or stir until combined. Press the mixture into the bottom and sides of the pie pan forming a neat border around the edge. Bake the crust until set and golden, 8 minutes. Set aside on a wire rack; leave the oven on.

For the filling: Meanwhile, in an electric mixer with the wire whisk attachment, beat the egg yolks and lime zest at high speed until very fluffy, about 5 minutes. Gradually add the condensed milk and continue to beat until thick, 3 or 4 minutes longer. Lower the mixer speed and slowly add the lime juice, mixing just until combined, no longer. Pour the mixture into the crust. Bake for 10 minutes or until the filling has just set. Cool on a wire rack, then refrigerate. Freeze for 15 to 20 minutes before serving.

For the topping: Whip the cream and the powdered sugar until nearly stiff. Cut the pie in wedges and serve very cold, topping each wedge with whipped cream.

Makes 1 pie.

From “Eat at Joe’s: The Joe’s Stone Crab Restaurant Cookbook” by Jo Ann Bass and Richard Sax

Beer of the Week is sponsored by the Lion & Rose. Each week, we introduce you to a wonderful brew that’s a little bit different and well worth seeking out.

Real Ale Firemans #4 Blonde Ale

OK, let’s get the bad out of the way first: This beer has the worst grammar of any I’ve seen on the market lately. What exactly is a “Firemans”? The plural of “fireman” is “firemen” and the possessive of “fireman” is “fireman’s,” which leaves us with no place for a poor “Firemans” to go, except in my belly.

Now that my inner copy editor had his say, it’s time to concentrate on what Real Ale in Blanco gets right with this brew, which is just about everything else.

The beer boasts a shimmering golden color with a slightly cloudy tinge that is reminiscent of lemons. A healthy head foams up, but after a few minutes, it settles into a nice lacing around the upper edge.

Lemons come to mind again on first sniff, because that bright citrus dominates the aroma, though a touch of yeast and malt is also present.

Citrus with a lively layer of hoppy bitterness dominate the flavors, and these get more pronounced the warmer the beer gets. But either cold or room temperature, it is refreshing, cutting through anything heavy you may be eating or complementing a touch of spice. It all ends in a dry, clean finish that makes you thirsty for more.

This beer is versatile when it comes to pairing it with food. At the Lion and Rose, you could match it with a bowl of Belgian mussels in a white wine mirepoix or snack through a basket of Bloke’s Mushrooms with ranch dressing. Or you could match it with a more substantial plate, such as Langostino Tilapia with its buttery sauce or the vegetarian Beggar’s Pouches, pasta filled with four types of cheese.

So, put the fire out with a Firemans #4 and leave the grammar to someone else to fix.

The roast beef sandwich and tortilla soup at Williams Confectionery Crafts.

Bonnie Walker and I stopped by Williams Confectionery Crafts for lunch on a recent Tuesday, when the special is always chicken and dumplings. Thick, doughy strips were covered in a chicken gravy that produced an appreciative smile on Bonnie’s face as spooned up each succulent morsel.

“These are just like my mom makes,”  she told Joyce Williams, a retired school teacher who has run the unassuming northeast side restaurant on Toepperwein Road for the past six years.

“That’s the nicest compliment anyone can give me,” was her response.

And it’s the same feeling you’ll have if you wander in for breakfast, lunch or an early dinner, for savory treats like chicken-fried steak or King Ranch chicken casserole or for any of the delectable desserts, which range from hummingbird cake to raspberry-white chocolate bars.

That day, I had breakfast on my mind, so I went with an omelet stuffed with a little bit of everything, including some diced orange pepper, almost raw spinach leaves, ham, bacon and sausage. The sheet of egg wrapped around the lively jumble of ingredients was beautifully cooked and just about all I could want.

The red velvet cake has pecans on top.

On a more recent visit, a friend and I decided to try the soups and sandwiches. She ordered the roast beef, while I settled for baked ham. The meat on both is cut from the bone, not from some deli. So, the roast beef was more akin to pot roast, with a colorful blend of bell peppers and red onion on top and some provolone cheese melted into the wheat bun. Days later, memories of the meat, so flavorful and tender, keep calling me back. The pan-fried bits of ham with lettuce and slices of a perfectly ripe tomato.

A tomato bisque with a touch of cheese on top was tangy and comforting — and a bit more welcome than the gelatinous tortilla soup, the lone misfire on several visits.

As good as the savory treats were, the sweets were the real reason people have flocked to Williams. The display case that runs the width of the dining room and the counter behind it were laden with old-fashioned treats highly reminiscent of the kind that my mom, now a retired baker, used to make. On one visit, several types of chocolate cakes, filled with whipped cream or topped with bits of chopped candy bar, sat next to 7-Up cake, hummingbird cake, lemon cake and pink or strawberry cake. Then there were cupcakes, cookies, bar cookies, and the puddings, including bread and banana, the latter of which drew sighs of delirious contentment from Bonnie. I opted that day for a slab of cherry strudel with a sticky glaze and airy dough wrapped around the fruit filling.

A baked ham sandwich with a golden tomato bisque.

And I haven’t even gotten to the pies, including coconut chess, buttermilk chess, sweet potato, sweet potato-cream cheese, apple and more.

On the second visit, the cake lineup had changed to include a caramel drizzled coconut cream cake and a towering red velvet cake, both of which were airy yet substantial, with the cake complemented by the luscious frostings.

Williams Confectionery Crafts has even more, including coffee drinks, ice cream treats, oversized cinnamon rolls and to-go orders, whether you want a few dozen cupcakes or a specialty cake decorated for a birthday, anniversary or even wedding. I’m ready for my next visit.

Banana pudding

Williams Confectionery Crafts
12107 Toepperwein Road
(210) 967-5200
Breakfast-lunch: Monday-Saturday
Dinner until 7 p.m.: Monday-Friday

Andrew Weissman

Andrew Weissman of Il Sogno and the Sandbar, both at the Pearl Brewery, 200 E. Grayson St., won the Mentor Award this week from StarChefs.com during the website’s first Austin-San Antonio Rising Stars awards party.

Weissman, who originally owned Le Rêve, was cited for shaping a new generation of local talent. Some of the people who have worked for Weissman include Doug Horn of Dough, Chris Carlson of the Sandbar, Byron Bergeron of Fig Tree Restaurant, and Michael Sohocki, whose Restaurant Gwendolyn is in the former Le Rêve location at 152 E. Pecan St.

Sohocki was honored by StarChefs for Sustainability Chef. Jason Dady was one of two Restaurateurs of the Year, with Austin’s Tyson Cole. Jeret Pea of the Esquire Tavern and Quealy Watson of the Monterey were also among the San Antonians honored.

It’s been a busy week for Weissman, who also cooked Wednesday for 65 guest chefs and members of the Culinary Institute of America’s board. The list included Thomas Keller of the French Laundry and Per Se, Roy Yamaguchi of Roy’s, and Charlie Palmer, all of whom were filled with praise for the dinner at Il Sogno.

Weissman hadn’t met Yamaguchi before and really enjoyed talking with the chef, known for showcasing the seafood of the Hawaiian islands in spectacular ways.

For more information on Il Sogno, call (210) 223-3900.

Jalapeño Fried Catfish Sandwich at Big Bob's Burgers.

By Bonnie Walker and John Griffin

If you’re looking to give up red meat during Lent, here are several suggestions of seafood dishes in area restaurants that are guaranteed to keep you satisfied.

Jalapeño Fried Catfish Sandwich, Big Bob’s Burgers, 447 W. Hildebrand Ave. — “Big Bob” Riddle once featured a similar item at the now-defunct Podna’s, where it was a big hit. The fish is marinated in jalapeños and garlic before being breaded in cornmeal and fried. This sandwich builds on the fried fish with pickles, onions, tomato and lettuce with some soothing mayonnaise.

Haw-Mok, Tong’s Thai, 1146 Austin Hwy. — Several Thai restaurants in town serve versions of Haw-Mok, but no one’s quite matches the version here. Assorted types of seafood, including squid, shrimp, mussels and scallops, are cooked inside a foil pouch filled with vegetables, red curry and coconut milk. The pouch is opened at the table, so that the steam inside can escape in an often dramatic billow, leaving you with nothing but tongue-tingly flavors.

The Crab and Portobello Appetizer at Antlers.

Crab and Portobello, Antlers, Hyatt Hill Country, 9800 Hyatt Resort Drive — Antlers’ menu features a number of seafood dishes including a pan-seared Gulf red fish, but don’t miss the crab and portobello appetizer, a tower of lump crab meat and strips of mushroom are presented with roasted pepper tapenade, tomato and silky slices of avocado.

Georges Bank Skate Wing, the Sandbar at the Pearl, 200 E. Grayson St. — The menu is filled with more seafood treasures than you can imagine including an array of oysters that is pure sensory overload. But the skate wing, no matter how chef Chris Carlson prepares it, has always been one of those culinary experiences that calls you back for more.

Diablo Fish Fillet, Bourbon Street Seafood Kitchen, 24165 I-10 W.; 2815 N. Loop 1604 E. — As the name implies, the restaurant is a haven of seafood favorites. This one features grilled white with a topping of crab meat and crawfish swimming in a creamy butter sauce filled with garlic and tomatoes. The devil in the name comes from the addition of serrano peppers to give each bite an extra kick.

Mussels menu at La Frite.

Moules (mussels) with Frites, La Frite Belgian Bistro, 728 S. Alamo St. — On South Alamo, La Frite does a thriving business, not the least of which involves bowls full of mussels, steamed to perfection in their shiny, dark shells and offered in a variety of flavors. We are currently working our way through the list. Most recently it was the Basque and Spanish flavors of chorizo, smoked paprika (pimentón) and wine that  tempted both by aromatics and flavors. The bowl of Moules Provençal came with sprigs of fresh herbs. For a little bit more moulah, order your moules with frites, excellent, crunchy french fries. Add a cool glass of white wine and a slice or two of bread and this is one of the most gratifying meals in town.

Broiled Fish with Nopalitos and Cheese, La Playa, 3201 W. Poplar St.; 3343 West Ave.; 4411 I-10 E. — This casual Mexican and Salvadoran restaurant obviously specializes in seafood. We’ve enjoyed most everything we’ve eaten at the location on West Poplar Street. A favorite quick snack, for example, is the black beans, Salvadoran crema and fried plantain. For more substance, try the foil-wrapped fish, mildly seasoned, topped with cheese and sliced fresh nopalitos (cactus paddle). While you don’t always think of topping firm, white fish with cheese, it really does work in this dish. You can get fries with this dish, but we recommend La Playa’s excellent rice.

Bruce Auden

Two San Antonio chefs, Bruce Auden of Biga on the Banks and Jason Dady of Jason Dady Restaurants, are among the semifinalists for this year’s James Beard Foundations Awards, which honor excellence in the food service industry.

The Esquire Tavern, 155 E. Commerce St., is also a semifinalist in the category of Outstanding Bar Program.

The finalists will be announced March 19, with the awards handed out on May 7.

Auden is a semifinalist in the category of Best Chef in the Southwest for Biga on the Banks, 203 S. St. Mary’s St. He has been a finalist in the category several times in the past.

Paul Qui of Austin’s Uchi and “Top Chef” contender is also among the semifinalists, as is Maiya Keck of Maiya’s in Marfa, Bruno Davaillon of the Mansion on Turtle Creek in Dallas, Manabu Horiuchi of Kata Robata in Houston, Anita Jaisinghani of Indika in Houston, Hugo Ortega of Hugo’s in Houston, and Teiichi Sakurai of Tei-An in Dallas.

Dady, meanwhile, in a semifinalist in the category of Outstanding Restaurateur, which covers all of his food ventures, including Bin 555, Tre Trattoria, Two Bros. BBQ Market and the DUK Truck as well as the recently closed Lodge Restaurant of Castle Hills. Another Texan on the list is Nick Badovinus of Flavor Hook in Dallas.

Jason Dady

Bryce Gilmore of Barley Swine in Austin and Grant Gordon of Tony’s in Houston are on the semifinalist list of Rising Star Chef of the Year.

Stephan Pyles of Stephan Pyles in Dallas and Sustenio in San Antonio is among the semifinalists for Outstanding Chef.

Outstanding Pastry Chef semifinalists include two from Texas: Julieta V. Adauto of Orange Peel Pastries, Cakes & More of El Paso and Philip Speer of Uchi.

Another Texas semifinalist is Café on the Green at Four Seasons Resort in Irving for Outstanding Wine Program.

The foundation has also announced that Charlie Trotter of Chicago will receive its Humanitarian of the Year Award while Wolfgang Puck will receive the Lifetime Achievement Award.

For the full list of semifinalists, click here.

El Rey Chocolate Silk Custard

Two Step Restaurant and Cantina, 9840 W. Loop 1604 N. (at Braun Road), is celebrating Valentine’s Day with a dessert that’s guaranteed to melt any chocolate lover’s heart. Chef Steve Warner’s El Rey Chocolate Silk Custard is a type of flan with the mysterious density of chocolate added.

Warner uses El Rey Chocolate, the Fredericksburg chocolate company that produces world class chocolates. They help make this a treat that would be welcome any time of year.

For more information on Two Step, call 210-688-2686 or visit twosteprestaurant.com.

El Rey Chocolate Silk Custard

1/4 chocolate liqueur, divided use
1 1/2 cups sugar, divided use
3 cups heavy cream
2 cups El Rey 58.5 percent dark chocolate
1 tablespoon vanilla
2 eggs
3 egg yolks

Preheat oven to 250 degrees.

Set out 6 soufflé cups. Pour 1 tablespoon chocolate liqueur into each cup.

Over a low flame, melt 1/2 cup sugar to the hard crack stage. Pour 2 tablespoons of the melted sugar into each of the cups.

Over a low flame, bring the heavy cream to a steam. Add the chocolate and the vanilla. Stir occasionally until the chocolate is melted.

In a mixing bowl, whisk together eggs, yolks, remaining sugar and remaining chocolate liqueur. Then temper the eggs with the chocolate and egg mixture.

Put the chocolate custard into the soufflé cups. Place the cups into a water bath and bake until the internal temperature of the custards reaches 185. Remove from the water bath, let cool, and refrigerate overnight. When ready to serve, heat a thin knife in boiling water. Run around the edge of each custard. Upend each custard on a plate and serve.

Makes 6 custards.

From Steve Warner, Two Step Restaurant

A view of the wine bar at Bliss, which opens Thursday.

Expect some savory new sensations in the near future, as San Antonio’s dining scene greets to two high-profile new restaurants on opposite ends of town.

Stephan Pyles is opening Sustenio on La Cantera Parkway.

On the northwest side, near Fiesta Texas, celebrity chef Stephan Pyles has opened Sustenio at the new Éilan Hotel Resort & Spa. Meanwhile, local favorite Mark Bliss, formerly of Silo, is putting the finishing touches on his new restaurant, Bliss, which is in Southtown.

Mark Bliss

At Sustenio, you can expect to find upscale Texas-style comfort food, ranging from crisp pork belly with vanilla-scented grits to Texas venison lion with yucca-huitlacoche hash.

At Bliss, the emphasis is on the chef’s selection of the finest and freshest ingredients, which he plans to present in simple yet artful layerings that show off the depth of flavors of each. Seasonal changes will apply, but expect dishes such as a lobster roll, duck and

For views of both restaurants, click on the stories below:

• Stephan Pyles Brings His Brand of Southwestern Cuisine to San Antonio
• Bliss Opens Thursday in Southtown