By Cecil Flentge

You’ve loved it on Italian menus, and maybe even made it yourself. Now that the weather shows a slim promise of cooling, let’s talk about a  hearty Italian stew.

Meaty veal shanks are the main ingredient in osso buco.

Ossobuco or osso buco (sometimes seen as “bucco”) is Italian for “bone with a hole” (osso bone, buco hole) or “marrowbone”, both a reference to the marrow hole at the center of the cross-cut veal shank.

The original version is ‘ossobuco in bianco’ (Osso Buco with White Sauce), which does not use tomatoes. Then there are many modern versions that do use tomatoes, simply called Osso Buco. But time marches on and it is now quite common to find this dish made with pork shanks (whole or cross-cut), lamb shanks or cross-cut legs of beef or venison.  There is even a movie named Osso Buco.

No matter how you approach it, Osso Buco is the ‘black tie and tails’ version of a pot roast, so it is easy to do though it takes some time.

Osso Buco with Tomatoes, Olives and Gremolata (Recipe)

But what wine?  So many will work, both white and red, and it does vary with the type of Osso Buco.  No matter what country a recipe originates, you will find the same countries wines will be a safe bet.  All of these wines will make you happy with your Osso Buco, as well-matched wine and food always will — so on with the Italians!

La Maia Lina Chianti Classico, Tuscany 2008:
The little pig on the label does not tell you ‘buy me’, but you should.  CostCo for $11.

Fact: Sangiovese is the primary grape for Chianti and this medium red-colored example shows why they never will change.  A ripe cherry nose with cedar and a whiff of raspberries.  The palate echoes the cherry, blended with a ripe plum, and enough tangy acidity to keep it all fresh.  After it has been open 30 minutes you get a little aroma of black raspberry jam.  The finish trails a bit with cherry, mineral and plum.

Feelings: This is why I like drinking wine.  You can open this one and have a glass while you cook your Osso Buco, while you dine, while you clean up, and relaxing with a book before bedtime.  If you follow this outline you will probably be ready for bedtime!

Sasso al Poggio, from Piccini winery, Tuscany 2004
The 2004 is the current vintage of this ‘Super Tuscan’ offered at CostCo for $13.  An excellent opportunity to see how wines develop with some age.

Fact:  Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet bring the red color, age brings the caramelized pear color, and together they made a lovely brick red.  Vibrant cherry, plum, and wild strawberry on the nose with smoky, earthy undertones.  Cherry, mushrooms and an almost meaty component blends with toasty notes for your palate.  Deep black cherry served on wood-baked bread linger with the minerality on the finish.

Feelings:  Use the good china and polish the silver.  Drag out that tablecloth and light some candles, open the wine a few minutes before you serve that rich and fragrant dish.  Let the wine tell you stories of Italy, the scent of wild oregano and the statues hidden in marble, as you dine.

Ramitello, Biferno, from Di Majo Norante 2008
From the Molise region, about 200 miles east of Rome.  Super value for $11 at CostCo.

Fact: Dark garnet red in color, there is black cherry with a touch of aged woodpile in the enticing aroma.  Tasting brings forth cherry, coffee, mineral-earth and a bit of green Poblano pepper. The acidity works well to keep the wine interesting and the finish leaves you with dried cherries and coffee.

Feeling: This wine demands attention.  It is like your friend that you have spirited conversations with over dinner, you look forward to the experience.

Ruffino, Modus, Tuscany 2006 
Another of the ‘Super Tuscans’ with Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet available for $20.

Fact: An attractive and dramatic label enfolds a dark red wine from a well known winery.  Dark cherry, graphite, and cedar were pleasantly presented in the aroma with earthy accent.  The first taste repeated the cherry and cedar while later there was more of the minerally graphite and a little vegetal seasoning.  Tannins were chewy in this full-bodied red, but all were balanced.  One note is to decant this wine twice before serving to awaken the scents and flavors.  Alternatively, buy a couple and put them away for two or three years to see how it matures.

Feeling: Somewhat akin to petting a tiger.  You can feel the warmth and see the beauty, yet the power is still leashed.  Be patient, it will relax as you do.

Caparzo, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 1998 
Locally, the 2004 vintage is available at Gabriels Superstore for $49 and is rated as highly as the 1998, though it may be more approachable after 2012.

Fact: When first opened there was a toast, black cherry, dried strawberry nose.  A few minutes later that was joined by warm red soil and raked Fall leaves.  The flavors of red berries, soft tannins, and rich minerals coat your palate.  It stays rich and flavorful through the finish, the cherry blending with espresso and chocolate.

Feeling: Ah, your favorite Aunt that always told those wonderful stories!  That is what this wine mimics as it tells different stories to your palate and nose, weaving its magic into your dinnertime, sorely missed when it has gone.

Cecil Flentge is a San Antonio wine educator for professionals or novices and a cooking instructor. Restaurant events or home tastings.  Questions? Email cecil@wine2you.com

This recipe, from Epicurious.com, is one of many versions of the Italian specialty. While Osso Buco is a homey stew, it is also very much a special-occasion dish. You can serve it with risotto, polenta, pasta, couscous or even a barley pilaf — or serve without pasta of grain if you’re having a separate pasta course.

Veal shanks, tomatoes, onion, garlic and herbs go into this savory stew.

Gremolata is a fresh condiment, made of finely chopped parsley, garlic and lemon zest. It is sprinkled on top before serving. Sometimes cooks like to make extra to pass at the table, too. Finally, remember that the marrow in the veal shanks is delicious, rich and delicately meaty in flavor. Try it along with the rest of the dish.

Other recipes also might call for lamb shanks, or even pork, but veal is the classic. Here are a few cook’s notes for making the dish.

• You’ll need a 7- to 9-quart heavy ovenproof pot (wide enough to hold shanks in 1 layer)

• Osso buco (without the gremolata) can be made 1 day ahead. Cool completely, uncovered, then chill, covered. Reheat, covered, in a 325-degree oven, 30 to 40 minutes.

• Osso buco can also be cooked in a large roasting pan. Straddle pan across 2 burners for browning and boiling, then cover pan tightly with foil for braising.

Italian wines to go with Osso Buco

Brown veal shanks in a heavy-bottomed pan in mixure of olive oil and butter.

Osso Buco with Tomatoes, Olives and Gremolata

8 to 10 (10-oz) meaty cross-cut veal shanks (5 to 6 1/2 lb total), each tied with kitchen string
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 medium onions, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
1 small carrot, finely chopped
1 celery rib, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 cup dry white wine
1 cup chicken broth
1 (28- to 32-oz) can whole plum tomatoes with juice (not in purée), coarsely chopped
1 cup large green olives without pits, halved, or use Kalamata olives, if you wish
1-1/2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
2 fresh flat-leaf parsley sprigs
1 Turkish or 1/2 California bay leaf
2 (2- by 1/2-inch) strips fresh lemon zest, cut crosswise into fine julienne
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon black pepper, or to taste

For the Gremolata
3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 large garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon zest

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

Pat shanks dry and season with salt and pepper. Divide shanks and flour between 2 large sealable plastic bags and shake to coat, then remove shanks from bags, shaking off excess flour. Heat oil and 2 tablespoons butter in ovenproof pot over moderately high heat until foam subsides, then brown shanks well in 2 batches, 10 to 12 minutes per batch, transferring to a plate.

Reduce heat to moderate and add remaining tablespoon butter to pot along with onions, carrot, celery, and garlic and cook, stirring, until onions are pale golden, about 5 minutes. Add remaining stew ingredients and bring to a boil, stirring. Arrange shanks in pot in a single layer and return to a simmer. Cover pot and braise shanks in middle of oven until very tender, about 2-1/2 hours. Remove strings from osso buco and discard along with parsley sprigs and bay leaf.

Make gremolata and serve osso buco:
Stir together gremolata ingredients in a small bowl and sprinkle over osso buco. Serve immediately.

Makes 8-10 servings.

Adapted from Epicurious.com