Tag Archive | "“Julie & Julia”"

Weekend Calendar: ‘Julie & Julia’ at the Pearl


“The problem with eating Italian food is that five or six days later you’re hungry again.”    —  George Miller

Movie Nights at Pearl featuring  ‘Julie & Julia’

Come to a free, outdoor showing of the film “Julie & Julia” at 8:45 this evening at the Pearl Brewery, 200 E. Grayson St.

For food and other activities, come a little early. These begin at 7:30 p.m.  At about 8 p.m., CIA, San Antonio chef-instructor Hinnerk Von Bargen will demonstrate a vichyssoise recipe from Julia Child’s “Mastering the Art of French Cooking,” and pass around samples of the chilled leek and potato soup.

CIA's 10-foot chef's hat (toque).

Also, look for the 10-foot inflatable CIA toque that’s making the rounds of community events, such as at movie night at Pearl, the Blue Star Arts Complex’s First Fridays, the Avenida Guadalupe Diez Y Seis Celebration and other events. At the toque, CIA staff members are sharing info about the latest programs, events, news on the expanded campus and the chance to win a weekend class with a CIA chef. People can sign up to win or get info on the new campus by texting: 45384 Subject CIASA or by visiting the website.


Ramblin Rosé at Becker Vineyards

We’re seeing the end of summer coming – and what better time to take a drive into the Texas Hill Country and sample a cool selection of good, dry rosé wines?

You can do it all this Saturday at Becker Vineyards in Stonewall for Rambling Rosé.  Attendees of this Culinaria event return year after year for the opportunity to sample wonderful rosé wines, including one from Becker Vineyards.

You’ll accompany the wine panel through a blind tasting. On the panel are Dr. Richard Becker, Becker Vineyards; Steven Krueger, Resort Sommelier for The Westin La Cantera; Dr. Russell Kane, Vintage Texas wine blog; and Bonnie Walker and John Griffin of SavorSA and San Antonio Taste magazine.  They will help guide you through a palate of flavors.

Two sessions:
Noon and 2 p.m., Saturday
$25 per person
Tickets are available now. Call the Culinaria office at 210-822-9555 to reserve your spot today!

Exploring the Americas at the Lodge

The Lodge at Castle Hills, 1746 Lockhill Selma Road, is offering a new, five-part dinner series.

“Exploring Our Roots” features a modern American interpretation of cuisines from our ancestors. Chile is the highlight for this weekend. Upcoming dinner explorations will be inspired by foods from Mexico, Portugal, Ireland and England.

The four-course prix fixe menu is $30 and will be available tonight (Friday) and Saturday. Make your reservations by calling 210-349-8466.

Menu:

1st Course: Palta Reina: Crab-stuffed Hass Avocado with Spicy Arugula, Fresh Lemon and Chilean Olive Oil
2nd Course:
Pastel De Choclo: Paila Baked Polenta with Ground Filet Mignon, Roasted Chicken, Corn and Chilean Spices.
3rd Course:
Merken Glazed Salmon A La Plancha with Fingerling Potatoes and Chilean Chimichurri
Dessert: Chilean Lemon Tart with Spiced Grapes and Red Wine Reduction

This offer may not be combined with other offers, coupons, vouchers or promotions.

Good Things at Mike’s

Check out Mike’s in the Village weekend specials, including a Chicken Tortilla Soup special, a Pan-seared Black Drum over Cajun Rice with Court Bouillon Sauce and a New Orleans Pasta Jambalaya with Gulf Shrimp, Chicken, Venison Sausage and more over pasta. Wednesday-Friday from 11 a.m. – 2 p.m., check out the lunch specials, including Fried Shrimp or Catfish Po’ boy, Ground Tenderloin Burgers and more.

Mike’s in the Village is at 2355-3 Bulverde Road, in Bulverde.

Coming up later this month!

Restaurant Week

Mark your calendars for Aug. 21-28.  Join in the celebration of Restaurant Week in San Antonio.  Guests will be able to sample food from San Antonio restaurants at delicious prices. Three-course prix fixe menus will be offered for lunch ($15) and dinner ($35).

Culinaria, formerly the New World Wine & Food Festival, says these restaurants are already signed up: Acenar, Antlers Lodge at The Hyatt Hill Country Resort, Auden’s Kitchen, Biga on the Banks, Bin 555, Bistro Vatel, Boardwalk Bistro, Boudro’s, Broadway Bistro, Cafe de Artistes, Citrus at Hotel Valencia, Coco Chocolate Lounge & Bistro, Kirby’s Steakhouse, La Gloria, Las Canarias, Maggiano’s, Paesano’s, Paloma Blanca, Restaurant Insignia, the downtown Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse, The Grey Moss Inn, The Lodge Restaurant of Castle Hills, The Palm Restaurant, Tre Trattoria and more. For a full listing and more information, check out 2010 Culinaria Restaurant Week.

Hatch Chile Fest and a hot contest

Chef Jason Dady and Central Market executive chef, Tan Nguyen help Central Market celebrate 15 years of Hatchmania on Aug. 31. Central Market’s Hatch Chile Fest is Aug. 18-31.

Dady and Nguyen each brings his own style to the dishes while using minimal ingredients and quick preparation. Dishes will feature Hatch Chiles and Chicken Thighs; Hatch Chiles and Shrimp; and Hatch Chiles and Watermelon. Pick up lots of tips and sample six dishes that feature everyone’s favorite chile.

6:30 – 9 p.m., Tuesday, August 31
Central Market, 4821 Broadway
$50
Call 210-368-8600 for reservations.

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Griffin to Go: Meeting One Goal, Keeping Up With Another


Last summer I made a goal. After seeing the movie “Julie & Julia,” I told myself I was going to cook my way through an entire section of a cookbook. The book I chose was the “Avoca Café Cookbook,” a treasured volume I had picked up in Ireland a few years ago, and the section was on soup. (Click here.)

It took several months and not a lot of discipline on my part, but I’m happy to report that the last new soup has been made and consumed – and it was as good as the best of the lot.

I learned as much about making soup as I learned about one kitchen’s approach to this labor of love. Quite a few of the recipes begin with softening an onion in olive oil, which provides a natural sweetness. A good vegetarian stock is added later and magically, the flavors blend together, changing with each ingredient.

But most of all, the recipes were simple and straightforward, not fussy yet full of flavor. If this is what Ireland treasures, then it shares something wonderful in common with that other “I” country in Europe: Italy. The emphasis is on layering a few fresh ingredients in a manner in which they all complement each other, so you can enjoy the best that nature has to offer.

Recipe: Cauliflower Cheddar Soup

It could be something as comforting as cauliflower and cheddar or something as offbeat as parsnip, rosemary and olives.

Along the way, I revisited some old favorites, such as Courgette and Almond, just to make sure they were as good as I remembered. I also was forced to revisit a few vegetables, such as turnips, that I didn’t care for as a child and have largely avoided as an adult. (I still don’t care for them, but soft baby turnips have a more pleasant flavor than their rock-hard adult cousins.)

Some of the journey was frustrating. I had had a stand of lemongrass in the backyard, but the ugliest of winter freezes took care of that. So I had to buy fresh lemongrass from the market for the Sweet Potato and Lemongrass soup. (I also didn’t have time to visit an Asian market, so I probably paid twice the price for the stalks I needed.)

Recipe: Courgette and Almond Soup

Most of the recipes were vegetarian, a few were even vegan. The lone exception was a Tuscan Bean Soup that required bacon in it. And what an impact that bacon had on the final product! After the first taste of the meat boiled into the broth, I could understand why a few – not all, mind you – of my vegan friends will have the occasional piece of pork. I will remember the richness and depth of flavor it brought to the soup and use that in other ways.

I made the most of these soups during the worst of the winter, when I had a seasonal job. To save money, I would bring a jar of soup each day and pop it in the microwave. The aroma of Potato and Fennel Soup or Aztec Corn would fill the break room and often drew questions from co-workers who wanted to know where I’d bought it.

The last recipe in the section was Mixed Mushroom, which I made with button caps, brown mushrooms and portobellos. Rich and creamy, it was a fine end to a most tasty experiment.

Recipe: Aztec Corn Soup

Another goal I wrote about recently was planting a garden so I could enjoy some freshness from my own backyard.

I’m happy to report that the radishes, lettuces and arugula I planted survived the snow/sleet/slush that fell several days after planting. It’s almost time to thin some of the sprouts, which will make a great addition to a salad.

In the meantime, the potted tomatoes are thriving. I know some friends who have planted theirs in the ground already. I’m not quite ready to do that, but I do have them clustered in near the backdoor so they can get some light.

Recipe: Mixed Mushroom Soup

I also planted a pair of olive trees I picked up at Sandy Oaks Olive Orchard. I planted the arbequina, which should survive our freak freezes and bear fruit in a few years. I would appreciate that. The loquat tree I planted eight years ago is only now ready to bear fruit, and I fear I lost some of this year’s potential harvest to the cold.

But that’s the nature of gardening, isn’t it? We never know what nature has in store for us, no matter the goals we set.

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Don’t Be ‘Hurt’ or ‘Blind Side’-d on Oscar Night


The question isn’t whether it’s going to be “The Hurt Locker” or “Avatar.” For true Oscar junkies, the question is, what are you going to serve at the party?

Oscar parties in recent years have become as popular as the telecast itself.

People love to get together to cheer on their favorites over a few themed dishes or trash some starlet’s outrageous dress while downing another specialty drink whipped for the occasion.

This year, your chances to show off your creativity have expanded somewhat because there are 10 nominees for best picture.

You can go classy and serve French cheeses to go with “An Education.” Think baked brie or a warm goat cheese salad with a touch of honey and thyme. Or you could go gross and make a thick stew that looks like the dog food in “District 9.”

The Hurt Locker

“The Hurt Locker” is set in Iraq. Though little food is consumed, the setting has inspired us to create a hummus with a fiery kick of red chile in it. Don’t want the heat? The recipe includes a number of suggested variations, so you can make one to your own liking.

Kosher deli meats for a sandwich tray could fit “A Serious Man.” Just leave the cheeses away from that one.

The main character in “Precious: Based on the Novel ‘Push’ by Sapphire” (yes, that’s the complete title of the movie) is pregnant, so why not haul out the dill pickle spears and, maybe, wrap each in a slice of Black Forest ham. Again, this is not something to serve in vicinity of someone who keeps kosher.

Blue food isn’t all that appetizing, despite what Percy Jackson might say in “The Lightning Thief.” So, make a toast to “Avatar” instead, using blue curaçao in a cocktail honoring the film. We offer recipes for an “Avatar”-ini and an “Avatar”-ita to make the evening fly by.

Avatar

Think of a pasta dish, using those twisted spirals, to go with Brad Pitt’s equally twisted Italian accent in “Inglourious Basterds.”

Those who saw “Up” know that the mythical bird Kevin loves to munch on candy bars. For that, we offer Bird Seed, a special cookie that will please your guests as much as they would Kevin.

I’ve heard “The Blind Side” compared to cinematic comfort food, which could mean anything from meatloaf to apple pie, depending on whether you need a savory or a sweet dish at your party.

If you are really into preparing for an Oscar party, then take a trip to Costco or Sam’s Club and stock up on some pretzels, peanuts and granola bars. Create your own snack packs to go with all the airline travel in “Up in the Air.” You could also serve drinks from a host of mini-bar bottles.

Up

That covers the 10 best picture nominees, but we’re not done yet. We can’t forget one of the best actress nominees, Meryl Streep, who plays Julia Child in the savory comedy “Julie & Julia.” For this, we recommend — what else? – Child’s tempting Boeuf Bourguignon recipe, which was a centerpiece in the film and can be served in small bowls (or large) to your guests.

Finally, we remind you of a few takes we recently offered on popcorn, the perfect food for movies, Oscar parties or just relaxing at home.

The 82nd Academy Awards air at 7 p.m. Sunday.

(Photos: Darren Decker / ©A.M.P.A.S. (top),  Courtesy of Summit Entertainment, Mark Fellman/Courtesy of 20th Century-Fox, Courtesy of Walt Disney Studios)

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The Hot List: If You’re Not Warm Enough Yet …


PepperOnFire1Monday it’s a burger laced with the hottest chile pepper in the world,  Tuesday it’s Thai, Wednesday it’s a ridiculously popular (cooked in a hot oven) recipe —  and the list goes on.  Enough with the hot food, you say? We’d like to stop, we really would, but we’re on a (hot) roll.

1. The Four Horseman burger at Chunky’s Burgers & More, 4602 Callaghan, tops the list. Not only does this fiery burger contain jalapeños and serranos, it builds on the heat with habaneros. But it doesn’t stop there. The Scoville, or heat chart-topping ghost peppers are added for extra oomph. Though the burger is only a half pound, it isn’t the size but the heat level that counts here. The cost is $15.99, or it’s free if you can eat it all in accordance with house rules.

2. If you like spicy food, Thai food has to be high on your list. But not all heat levels are the same. The most tongue-searing temperatures we have found have been at Siam Cuisine, 6032 FM 3009, Schertz. When the server asks you how hot you want your dish, just say you want it “A.J. hot.” A.J. Kaewlium is the chef, and this is the incendiary level she likes her food. Don’t say you weren’t warned.

3. The hot foodie movie of this hot, hot summer was “Julie and Julia”.  After watching the film, foodies started making boeuf bourguignon in droves —whether they were making it again, after a long hiatus, or for the first time.  SavorSA ran the recipe and it is remains one of the top hits on our website. Click here.

4. At Garcia’s Mexican Food, 842 Fredericksburg Road, the habanero salsa comes in a plastic squeeze bottle and invariably with a warning from the server — “This is hot, you know?” We know and we like it that way. Some of us might dot it on our pork chop tacos, others might pour it all over their Wednesday special.  So many ways to enjoy this pretty orange salsa with a punch.

5. A greater variety of Indian food is making its way into San Antonio restaurants. One of the spiciest treats to arrive is mango chutney, a rich condiment made with green mangoes, lemons (including the peel) and a searing mixture of chiles, ginger paste and mustard seek. Though you can find this dish at many Indian places, the freshest version we have found is at Bombay Hall, 8783 Wurzbach Road.

6. In need of an extra-strength eye opener? Aldaco’s of Stone Oak, 20079 Stone Oak Parkway, has a mix-your-own Bloody Mary bar that it offers Saturday and Sunday during its brunch. Add as much hot sauce and black pepper as you like, and let the remains of the previous day wash away.

7. Heat can be measured in various ways. At several Italian places in town, the pizza ovens are hotter than you might ever want to cuddle up to. The ovens in at least three places — Dough Pizzeria Napoletana, 6989 Blanco Road, Il Sogno, 200 E. Grayson St. at the Pearl Brewery, and Grimaldi’s Pizzeria, 15900 La Cantera Parkway at the Shops at La Cantera — vary in temperature from 900 degrees to 1,200 degrees. What that means is, you’ll get a good charred crust on your pie. And if you want spicy heat on top, just reach for the pepper flakes.

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Can’t Get Enough of ‘Julie & Julia’?


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Meryl Streep as "Julia Child" in Columbia Pictures' JULIE & JULIA.

The recent release of the hit movie “Julie & Julia” has spawned plenty of discussion about Julia Child, her life and recipes and Julie Powell’s writings. Here is a quick roundup of the articles you’ll find on SavorSA inspired by the movie:

Photo: Jonathan Wenk (Sony/Columbia Pictures)

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A Sprinkling of Literary Liberties, Yet ‘Julie & Julia’ Still Cooks


9780316042512_1681x2544-1According to Julie Powell, “The road to hell is paved with leeks and potatoes.”

In her self-described “chick lit” book, “Julie & Julia,” bad news from a doctor prompts her to create a comfort food, Potage Parmentier, emphasizing that “simple” ingredients do not equate to an “easy” dish.

That’s not how director-screenwriter Nora Ephron begins her reinvention of Julie Powell’s story in the film version. Her Julie is introduced to us as a despairing secretary, endlessly answering calls from New York’s 9/11 victims.

Two different beginnings for the introduction of Julie’s character, yet they still led to the same place: someone who finds consolation through cooking.

In linking the lives of Julie Powell and Julia Child, Ephron took a few liberties from the original stories, as do most screenwriters.  Adapting two separate works for the same screen may warrant more deviations from the source materials than is usual.  And to make things even more confusing, Powell changes things around from the original blog.  That potato soup referenced earlier?  In the blog, she made it on Friday, Aug. 30, not the day the blog was conceived which was Aug. 25.  Little details? Yes.  Does it matter? Probably not.

The bones of the stories are still there; the messages remain the same.  The goodness of Julia Child’s movie persona could make most saints pale in comparison.  Julie Powell is shown as more neurotic and less profane than she probably is in real life.  Her girlfriends are probably not as one-dimensional as they were portrayed in the lunch scene — all ordering variations on the same Cobb salad.  (Again, another scene that was not in either the book or blog.)

Ephron wants us to realize that comforting feeling that comes from the predictability of a recipe.  Life’s path may seem arbitrary, but there are always things we can control, even if it is simply what’s for dinner.

So is Leek & Potato Soup the path to hell or a diversion to salvation?  You decide.

Potage Parmentier
(Leek or Onion and Potato Soup)

Leek and potato soup smells good, tastes good, and is simplicity itself to make.  It is also versatile as a soup base; add watercress and you have a watercress soup, or stir in cream and chill it for a vichyssoise.  To change the formula a bit, add carrots, broccoli, or anything else you think would go with it, and vary the proportions as you wish.

For about 2 quarts serving 6 to 8 people.

A 3- to 4-quart saucepan or pressure cooker
3 to 4 cups or 1 pound peeled potatoes, sliced or diced
3 cups or 1 pound thinly sliced leeks including the tender green; or yellow onions
2 quarts of water
1 tablespoon salt
4 to 6 tablespoons whipping cream or 2 to 3 tablespoons butter
2 to 3 tablespoons minced parsley or chives

Either simmer the vegetables, water, and salt together, partially covered, for 40 to 50 minutes until the vegetables are tender; or cook under 15 pounds of pressure for 5 minutes, release pressure, and simmer uncovered for 15 minutes.

Mash the vegetables in the soup with a fork, or pass the soup through a food mill.  Correct seasoning.  Set aside uncovered until just before serving, then reheat to the simmer.

Take off heat and just before serving, stir in the cream or butter by spoonfuls.  Pour into a tureen or soup cups and decorate with the herbs.

Adapted from “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” by Julia Chile, Louisette Bertholle and Simone Beck

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Exult in the Richness of Julia Child’s Chocolate Pastry


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Amy Adams as "Julie Powell" and Chris Messina as "Eric Powell in Columbia Pictures' JULIE & JULIA.

In the film “Julie & Julia,” the simple act of pouring chocolate filling into a tart crust is enough to elicit gasps of approval from the audience, sending viewers’ taste buds into overdrive.

If , after seeing the movie, you wanted to create your own version of this decadent looking treat, then look no further for the recipe. Below is an adaptation of the recipe featured in “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” by Julia Child, Simone Beck and Louisette Bertholle.

You can choose your own version of the tart crust before topping it — that is, if you don’t eat the cream by itself.

A word of warning: The recipe is lengthy, not because it is difficult, but because Child and her co-authors go into great detail on how to make the various elements as best as can be expected. So, don’t let the length deter you. The end result is worth it.

But reading through the intense detail gives you some idea of Child’s passion as well as the scope of Julie’s Powell’s project of cooking her way through the entire cookbook.

Tartes Sucrées

French dessert tarts, like French entrée tarts and quiches, are open faced and stand supported only by their pastry shells. They should be beautiful to look at.

The Pastry

The pastry for dessert tarts shells is molded and baked in a flan ring or a false-bottomed cake pan so that the shell may be unmolded. You may use either paté brisée sucrée, sweet short paste, which is ordinary short paste with sugar added, or paté sablée, sugar crust, which, besides flour and butter, contains eggs and usually more sugar. We give proportions for both here.

Paté Brisée Sucrée
(Sweet Short Paste)

  • For an 8-to 9-inch shell, proportions for 1 1/2 cups flour
  • For a 10- to 11-inch shell, proportions for 2 cups flour

Proportions for 1 cup flour:

  • 2/3 cup flour (scooped and leveled)
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 1/8 teaspoon salt
  • 5 1/2 tablespoons fat: 4 tablespoons chilled butter and 1 1/2 tablespoons chilled
  • vegetable shortening
  • 2 1/2 to 3 tablespoons cold water

Place the flour in the mixing bowl, mix in the sugar and salt, then proceed to make the dough and mold the shell either by hand or in the food processor.

Hand mixing: Your must train yourself to work rapidly, particularly if your kitchen is warm, so that the butter will soften as little as possible.  Use very quick, light finger movements, and do not linger on the dough at all with the warm palms of your hands.  A pastry blender may be used if you wish, but a necessary party of learning how to cook is to get the feel of the dough in your fingers.

Place flour, salt, sugar, butter, and vegetable shortening in a big mixing bowl.  Rub the flour and fat together rapidly between the tips of your fingers until the fat is broken into pieces the size of oatmeal flakes.  Do not overdo this step as the fat will be blended more thoroughly later.

Add the water and blend quickly with one hand, fingers held together and slightly cupped, as you rapidly gather the dough into a mass.  Sprinkle up to 1 tablespoon more water by droplets over any un-massed remains and add them to the main body of the dough.  Then press the dough firmly into a roughly shaped ball.  It should just hold together and be pliable, but not sticky.  Proceed to the fraisage.

In a food processor:  Measure the dry ingredients into the bowl (equipped with the steel blade).  Quarter the chilled sticks of butter lengthwise and cut crosswise into 3/8″-inch pieces; add to the flour along with the chilled shortening.  Flick the machine on and off 4 or 5 times, then measure out a scant half cup of iced water.  Turn the machine on and pour it all in at once; immediately flick the machine on and off several times, and the dough should begin to mass on the blade.  If not, dribble in a little more water and repeat, repeating again if necessary.  Dough is done when it has begun to mass; do not overmix it.  Scrape the dough out onto your work surface, and proceed to the fraisage.

The fraisage (or final blending):  Place the dough on a lightly floured pastry board.  With the heel of one hand, not the palm, which is too warm, rapidly press the pastry by two-spoonful bits down onto the board and away from you in a firm, quick smear of about 6 inches.  This constitutes the final blending of fat and flour, or fraisage.

With a scraper or spatula, gather the dough again into a mass; knead it briefly into a fairly smooth round ball.  Sprinkle it lightly with flour and wrap it in waxed paper.  Either place the dough in the freezing compartment of the refrigerator for about 1 hour until it is firm but not congealed, or refrigerate for 2 hours or overnight.

Uncooked pastry dough will keep for 2 to 3 days under refrigeration, or may be frozen for several weeks.  Always wrap it airtight in waxed paper and a plastic bag.

Rolling out the dough.  Because of its high butter content, roll out the dough as quickly as possible, so that it will not soften and become difficult to handle.

Place the dough on a lightly floured board or marble.  If the dough is hard, beat it with the rolling pin to soften it.  Then knead it briefly into a fairly flat circle.  It should be just malleable enough to roll out without cracking.

Lightly flour the top of the dough.  Place rolling pin across center and roll the pin back and forth with firm but gentle pressure to start the dough moving.  Then, with a firm, even stroke, and always rolling away from you, start just below the center of the dough and roll to within an inch of the far edge.

Lift dough and turn it at a slight angle.

Give it another roll.  Continue lifting, turning, and rolling, and, as necessary, sprinkle board and top of dough lightly with flour to prevent sticking.  Roll it into a circle 1/8 inch thick and about 2 inches larger all around than your pie pan or flan ring.  If your circle is uneven, cut off a too-large portion, moisten the edge of the too-small portion with water, press the two piece of pastry together, and smooth them with your rolling pin.

The dough should be used as soon as it has been rolled out, so that it will not soften.

Making a pastry shell.

  • Flan ring
  • False-bottomed cake pan

A French tart is straight sided and open faced, and stands supported only by its pastry shell.  In France the shell is molded in a bottomless metal flan ring that has been set on a baking sheet.  When the tart is done, the ring is removed and the tart is slid from the baking sheet to the rack or the serving dish.  You can achieve the same effect by molding your pastry in a false-bottomed, straight-sided, cake pan 1 to 1 1/2 inches deep.  When the shell is ready for unmolding, the pan is set over a jar and the false bottom frees  the shell from the sides of the pan.  It is then, with the aid of a long-bladed spatula, slid off its false bottom and onto a rack or the serving dish.  You can also make pastry shells using two matching pie pans; once in a while the weight of the filling will force the outward-slanting sides of the shell to collapse, so we are not recommending it.

Partially baked pastry shells are used for quiches and for tarts whose filling cooks in the shell.  Fully baked shells are for tarts filled with cooked ingredients that need only a brief reheating, or for fresh fruit tarts that are served cold.

cake_mixtureimg_0067Butter the inside of the mold.  If you are using a flan mold, butter the baking sheet also.

Either reverse the dough onto the rolling pin, and unroll it over the mold; or fold the dough in half, in half again, then lay it in the mold and unfold it.

Press the dough lightly into the bottom of the cake pan, or onto the baking sheet if you are using a flan ring.  Then lift the edges of the dough and work it gently down the inside edges of mold with your fingers, taking in about 3/8 inch of dough all around the circumference.  This will make the sides of the pastry shell a little thicker and sturdier.  Trim off excess dough by rolling the pin over the top of the mold.

Then with your thumbs, push the dough 1/8 inch above the edge of the mold, to make an even, rounded rim of dough all around the inside circumference of the mold.

Press a decorative edge around the rim of the pastry with the dull edge of a knife.

Prick bottom of pastry with a fork at 1/2-inch intervals.

To keep the sides of the pastry shell from collapsing and the bottom from puffing up, either butter the bottom of another mold, weight it with a handful of dry beans, and place it inside the pastry; or line the pastry with buttered, lightweight foil, or buttered brown paper.  Press it well against the sides of the pastry, and fill it with dried beans.  The weight of the beans will fold the pastry against the mold during the baking.

Refrigerate if not baked immediately.

Bake at the middle level of a preheated 400-degree oven for 8 to 9 minutes until pastry is set.  Remove mold or foil and beans.  Prick bottom of pastry with a fork to keep it from rising.  Bake for 7 to 10 minutes more, or until the shell is very lightly browned.

Unmolding: When the shell is done, unmold it and slip it onto a rack.  Circulation of air around it while it cools will prevent it from getting soggy.

Pate Sablée
(Sugar Crust)

Sugar crusts are particularly good with fruit tarts. They are more delicate than sweet short paste shells because of their eggs and additional sugar. The more sugar you mix in, the more difficult it is to roll and mold the pastry because it is sticky and breaks easily; the larger proportion of sugar, however, makes a delicious crust, actually a cookie dough.

The following directions are for making the pastry by hand. Food processor directions are the same for regular short paste dough.

For a 9- to 10-inch shell:

  • 1 1/2 cups flour (scooped and leveled)
  • 3 to 7 tablespoons sugar
  • 1/8 teaspoon double-action baking powder
  • 7 tablespoons fat: 5 tablespoons chilled butter and 2 tablespoons chilled vegetable shortening
  • A 3-quart mixing bowl
  • 1 egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water
  • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
  • A pastry board
  • Waxed paper

Place the flour, sugar, butter, vegetable shortening, and baking powder in the mixing bowl. Rub the fat and dry ingredients together rapidly with the tips of your fingers until the fat is broken into bits the size of small oatmeal flakes. Blend in the egg and vanilla, and knead the dough rapidly into a ball. Place on the pastry board and with the heel of your hand, not the palm, rapidly press the pastry by two-spoonful bits down on the board and away from you in a firm, quick smear of about six inches. The dough will be quite sticky if you have used the full amount of sugar. Form again into a ball, wrap in waxed paper, and chill for several hours until firm.

Mold the pastry in a flan ring or false-bottomed cake pan. Work rapidly if you have used the full amount of sugar, as the dough softens quickly.

Sugar crusts must be watched while in the oven as they burn easily if the full sugar proportions have been used.  Because the dough is collapsible until it has firmed in the oven, it is essential that the dough be held in place against the sides of the mold by lining of foil and beans or a bean0filled mold, as detailed in the directions for molding in the recipe for the previous crust.

Bake the sugar crust shell in the middle level of a preheated, 375-degree oven for 5 to 6 minutes until the dough is set.  Then remove the lining, prick the bottom of the pastry with a fork in several places, and bake for 8 to 10 minutes more.  The shell is done when it has shrunk slightly from the mold and begins to brown very lightly.  Immediately remove the mold from the shell and slip the shell onto a rack.  It will become crusty as it cools.

Note: Leftover dough, securely wrapped, will keep for several days in the refrigerator or may be frozen.

Crème Patissere
(custard filling)

This custard is also made of egg yolks, sugar and milk, but unlike crème anglaise, it contains flour so it may be brought to a boil, and is much thicker. The proportions of flour vary according to the use of the  filling; the following recipe is designed as a base for fruit tarts. With the addition of beaten egg whites it becomes a crème Saint-Honore and may be used as a filling for cream puffs, or may be mixed with fruit to make a quick dessert.

For about 2 1/2 cups.

  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • 5 egg yolks
  • A 3-quart mixing bowl
  • A wire whip or electric beater

Gradually beat the sugar into the egg yolks and continue beating for 2 to 3 minutes until the mixture is pale yellow and forms the ribbon.

  • 1/2 cup flour (scooped and leveled)

Beat in the flour.

  • 2 cups boiling milk

Beating the yolk mixture, gradually pour on the boiling milk in a thin stream of droplets.

  • A clean, heavy-bottomed 2 1/2 quart, enameled sauce-pan
  • A wire whip

Pour into a saucepan and set over moderately high heat. Stir with wire whip, reaching all over bottom of pan. As sauce comes to a boil it will get lumpy, but will smooth out as you beat it. When boil is reached, beat over moderately low heat for 2 to 3 minutes to cook the flour. Be careful custard does not scorch in the bottom of pan.

  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • 3 ounces or squares of semisweet baking chocolate melted with 2 tablespoons rum or coffee and 2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Remove from heat and beat in the butter, then chocolate mixture. If the custard is not used immediately, clean it off the sides of the pan, and dot top of custard with softened butter to prevent a skin from forming over the surface. Crème Patissiere will keep for a week under refrigeration, or may be frozen.

John Griffin and Cecil Flengte contributed to this report.

Photo By: Jonathan Wenk (Sony/Columbia Pictures)

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Wine Review: Laetitia Sparkling Rosé


booze0003Laeticia Brut Rosé Arroyo Grande Valley 2000

This is a venture into the past.  The 2000 vintage of this wine is unlikely to be on the shelves locally, but 2006 or 2007 should be available at $28-$32.  The newer vintages have a very similar profile, but here is the opportunity to see how a wine ages.  This is especially true for Laetitia still wines, like its Pinot Noir, because it ages beautifully.

Facts: An absolutely beautiful salmon-blush of peach-skin color to this predominately Pinot Noir sparkler.  The cherry and strawberry aromas are seasoned by some acidity on the palate from the Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc added to the mix.  At almost nine years of age this is still a vibrant wine that pairs well with many dishes.

Feeling: How can you look at this and not feel you are special?  The fruit perfume of it and the clean and satisfying depth let you know that just by drinking this wine, the night is perfect.  Take a bite of the roasted, boned duck from “Julie & Julia” and savor your life!

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Julia Child’s Recipe for Boeuf Bourguignon


b-r0006Many of the people we spoke with after preview screenings of “Julie & Julia” had one thing on their minds: boeuf bourguignon. The hearty beef stew is a centerpiece of one of the movie’s more appetizing food scenes.

Jessica Young was so inspired by the movie that she went out in search of her own copy of “Mastering the Art of French Cooking. “I’m obsessed,” she says. “Since the movie I have been lucky enough to find a 14th printing of her first cookbook in Half Price Books (I love that it is used …) and I made beef bourguignon, which I have to say is very delicious!”

COCO Chocolate Lounge and Bistro, 18402 U.S. 281 N., Suite 114, is serving the dish tonight, Aug. 7, as a special.

But if you would rather try it at home, like Julie Powell and Jessica Young, here is Julia Child’s original recipe, lightly adapted  from “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” and complete with her comments:

Boeuf Bourguignon
Boeuf a la Bourguignonne
[Beef Stew in Red Wine, with Bacon, Onions, and Mushrooms]

As is the case with most famous dishes, there are more ways than one to arrive at a good boeuf bourguignon. Carefully done, and perfectly flavored, it is certainly one of the most delicious beef dishes concocted by man, and can well be the main course for a buffet dinner. Fortunately, you can prepare it completely ahead, even a day in advance, and it only gains in flavor when reheated.

Vegetable and wine suggestions: Boiled potatoes are traditionally served with this dish. Buttered noodles or steamed rice may be substituted. If you also wish a green vegetable, buttered peas would be your best choice. Serve with the beef a fairly full-bodied, young red wine, such as Beaujolais, Cotes du Rhone, Bordeaux-St. Émilion or Burgundy.

For 6 people.

  • A 6-ounce chunk of bacon

Remove rind, and cut bacon into lardoons (sticks, ¼-inch thick and 1 1/2-inches long). Simmer rind and bacon for 10 minutes in 1 ½ quarts of water. Drain and dry.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

  • A 9- to 10-inch fireproof casserole 3 inches deep
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil or cooking oil
  • A slotted spoon

Sauté the bacon in the oil over moderate heat for 2 to 3 minutes to brown lightly. Remove to a side dish with a slotted spoon. Set casserole aside. Reheat until fat is almost smoking before you sauté the beef.

  • 3 pounds lean stewing beef cut into 2-inch cubes

Dry the beef in paper towels; it will not brown if it is damp. Sauté it, a few pieces at a time, in the hot oil and bacon fat until nicely browned on all sides. Add it to the bacon.

  • 1 sliced carrot
  • 1 sliced onion

In the same fat, brown the vegetables. Pour out the sautéing fat.

  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • ¼ teaspoon pepper
  • 2 tablespoons flour

Return the beef and bacon to the casserole and toss with the salt and pepper. Then sprinkle on the flour. Set casserole uncovered in middle position of pre-heated oven for 4 minutes. Toss the meat and return to oven for 4 minutes more. (This browns the flour and covers the meat with a light crust.) Remove casserole, and turn oven down to 325 degrees.

  • 3 cups of a full-bodied young red wine, such as one of those suggested for serving, or a Chianti
  • 2 to 3 cups brown beef stock or canned beef bouillon
  • 1 tablespoon tomato paste
  • 2 cloves mashed garlic
  • ½ teaspoon thyme
  • A crumbled bay leaf
  • The blanched bacon rind

Stir in the wine and enough stock or bouillon so that the meat is barely covered. Add the tomato paste, garlic, herbs and bacon rind. Bring to simmer on top of the stove. Then cover the casserole and set in lower third of pre-heated oven. Regulate heat so liquid simmers very slowly for 2 ½ to 3 hours. The meat is done when a fork pierces it easily.

  • 18 to 24 small white onions, brown-braised in stock.
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1/2 cup beef stock
  • salt & fresh ground pepper
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 sprig thyme
  • 2 sprigs parsley
  • 1 pound fresh mushrooms, quartered
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil

While the beef is cooking, prepare the onions and mushrooms.

Heat the butter and oil in a large skillet and add the onions to the skillet. Sauté over medium heat for about ten minutes, rolling the onions about so they brown as evenly as possible, without breaking apart. Pour in the stock, season to taste, add the herbs, and cover. Simmer over low heat for about 40 to 50 minutes until the onions are perfectly tender but retain their shape and the liquid has mostly evaporated. Remove the herbs and set the onions aside.

For the mushrooms, heat the butter and oil over high heat in a large skillet. As soon as the foam begins to subside add the mushrooms and toss and shake the pan for about five minutes. As soon as they have browned lightly, remove from heat. Set the mushrooms aside until needed.

When the meat is tender, pour the contents of the casserole into a sieve set over a saucepan. Wash out the casserole and return the beef and bacon to it. Distribute the cooked onions and mushrooms over the meat.

Skim the fat off the sauce. Simmer sauce for a minute or two, skimming off additional fat as it rises. You should have about 2 ½ cups of sauce thick enough to coat a spoon lightly. If too thin, boil it down rapidly. If too thick, mix in a few tablespoons of stock or canned bouillon. Taste carefully for seasoning. Pour the sauce over the meat and vegetables. (Recipe may be completed in advance to this point.)

  • Parsley sprigs

For immediate serving: Cover the casserole and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, basting the meat and vegetables with the sauce several times. Serve in its casserole, or arrange the stew on a platter surrounded with potatoes, noodles, or rice and decorated with parsley.

For later serving: When cold, cover and refrigerate. About 15 to 20 minutes before serving, bring to the simmer, cover and simmer very slowly for 10 minutes, occasionally basting the meat and vegetables with the sauce.

From knopfdoubleday.com and www.RecipeZaar.com.

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‘Julie & Julia’: Like the Best Soufflé, Sheer Enjoyment


pk-17

Meryl Streep as "Julia Child" in Columbia Pictures' JULIE & JULIA.

We wonder if it is necessary, after all the talk leading up to “Julie & Julia,” to explain who the two women whose names are in the title are. But just in case you’ve been dozing off during food discussions lately, we’ll introduce them. They are Julia Child, the famous chef who died in 2004, and a disciple whom she never met, Julie Powell.

Child came to fame by starting at the Cordon Bleu in Paris, then slaving over a book, with Simone Beck, that would eventually be published in two volumes and become a culinary classic, “Mastering the Art of French Cooking.” Many more books and cooking classes, and eventually a television career, made Child a household name. She was truly a legend in her own time – for years – and barely had time to slow down before she died at the age of 91.

pk-05Julie Powell stepped into the limelight over a period of one year. She utilized a new-media, new-millennium approach to fame — writing a daily blog. This site would eventually attract thousands to read about what was not just a culinary journey but a personal one — a sort of cyberspace version of reality television.

So, what most of us already know about Julia Child is her love of cream and butter, her face and hair and voice, her height, her fine carriage. We remember her humor and sheer love of food. Now that she’s gone, this is ours to own, her legacy to us, along with the many books and videotapes that will keep her name alive. We might not have known that her personal life was as passionate as her cooking, with a supportive husband, Paul (Stanley Tucci of that other foodie film classic, “Big Night”) doting on his Amazon every moment of their married life.

Julie Powell is more of an unknown. She was born up the road in Austin. She and her husband had made a difficult move to Manhattan. Her job is stultifying, the apartment is small and unlovely. She’s a writer, but what has she written? Not much, she complains to her husband. Finally, to fight the despair of not doing something she honestly loves, she decides to cook her way though “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” and document the experience. She, too, is married to someone who loves her madly, though he makes it clear that he prefers sex and dinner on a regular basis to awaiting the increasingly irregular meal, not ready to eat until the wee hours of the morning.

The women’s stories offer numerous parallels, which writer-director Nora Ephron ladles out in homespun, often hilarious ways that aren’t subtle but are as comforting as a helping of boeuf bourguignon. Not only that, the movement back and forth between the two lives is masterfully done; the transitions are seamless.

pk-22This film isn’t like Ephron’s earlier marriage film with a foodie title, “Heartburn.” In fact, the domestic bliss that Julia Child lives is refreshingly free of strife and as welcome as one of the butter sauces that sends Child into a swoon.

Helping matters immeasurably is Meryl Streep’s Julia Child, who is lovely, charming, nearly indefatigable and never defeated. The snooty woman who headed the famous Cordon Bleu cooking school that Child attended in Paris never accepted the American, despite the fact that her male classmates soon grew to admire her determination. The role had to be an actor’s dream — to portray someone so many of us knew and loved, and to show us some of the things we may not have been aware of. Streep nails the accent, the much imitated, burbly tones that would become a Child trademark.

But more than that, Streep captures Child’s joie de vivre. Her larger-than-life effervescence matches Child’s 6-foot-2 height.

pk-13

Amy Adams and Chris Messina as "Eric and Julie Powell"

Amy Adams has the tougher role to perform, because Powell isn’t always that likable. Young, unfocused and, well, whiny, the blogger comes across as the opposite of Child. She wants to find herself — and find herself quickly, at that — yet she relies too much on others to help her. The blog idea is her husband’s, the money for the project soon comes from external sources, she lies to her boss. Yet (spoiler alert) she alone makes every recipe in Child’s book essentially on her own, right down to stuffing the live lobsters into the boiling water, with the oh-so-right Talking Heads’ “Psycho Killer” on the soundtrack.

Powell has been criticized by some as capitalizing on Child’s fame. But doesn’t every creative person stand on someone’s shoulders at some point in his or her career? To her credit, Powell’s homage to Child is more than evident in her words and deeds every step of the way. Child is her inspiration, her mentor, friend and teacher. The fact that it was her ticket to fame wasn’t the reason she set out to do the blog.

pk-09Most of you reading this review are probably more interested in the food than anything else the movie has to offer. Let us just say this: “Julie & Julia” will make you hunger for more than most cinema snack bars offer. The food scenes, in fact, make up for the shock therapy of “Food, Inc.” and other recent documentaries about our food supply. Linger on the images of chocolate pie filling poured slowly into a crust. Or of perfect boeuf bourguignon emerging from an oven. Amazingly enough, even the scene of trussing a boned duck, something most of us would never try, manages to coax a smile while kick-starting your taste buds.

In this area, “Julie & Julia” rises like the airiest soufflé, a dish that manages to be ethereal and joyously rich at the same time.

John Griffin contributed to this review

(Photos Jonathan Wenk / Columbia Pictures )

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