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‘So Much of Real Mexican Cuisine Is Fresh, Light and Vibrant’


Chef Paco Isordia has a mission. He wants people to discover what real Mexican cuisine is.

Chef Paco Isordia

Chef Paco Isordia

To that end, he’ll be preparing his Seafood a la Talla at Culinaria’s Best of Mexico, which is set for Friday evening at the Shops at La Cantera, 15900 La Cantera Parkway.

The chef works at Viceroy Zihuatanejo, a resort on the bay waters of Playa la Ropa. In the Pacific Coast enclave, he is known for teaching classes in using organic foods in light, fresh and healthful ways, one of which can be seen in the recipe below.

He recently answered a few questions about people’s perceptions of Mexican food, his favorite ingredients and more.

Q. What surprises Americans visiting your restaurant the most about what they think Mexican food should be like?

A. Many Americans expect Mexican food to be heavy, but so much of real Mexican cuisine is fresh, light and vibrant. It is a seafood-centric culture, and the property takes advantage of local sourcing when available to keep up with this aspect.

Q. You teach classes in cooking with organic food. Why is that important?

A. I believe it is important to understand your food and where it comes from. Using organic ingredients when cooking can give chefs and diners a better idea of how food actually tastes, making the overall experience more authentic.

Q. What are your favorite local ingredients to use in your cooking?

A. I like to use:

  • Different types of local fresh seafood: snapper, dorado, tuna lobster, octopus, etc.
  • Local products such as epazote, hoja santa, Jamaica, corn, mango, etc.

Q. Name one dish from your childhood that has influenced your cooking today and explain why.

A. I really like the tacos, and now that I have the privilege to know different products I like to combine different flavors. For example, taquitos with guacamole and escamoles (ant larvae), truffle oil, etc.

Q. What do you enjoy eating most when you’re not at work?

A. I love Mediterranean food and Mexican, but I also like to eat what is typical of any place you go.

Seafood a la Talla

1 pound peeled shrimp
1 pound baby scallops
2 pounds octopus
1 pound squid, cleaned
Salt, to taste
Pepper, to taste
¼ cup olive oil
Juice of 2 lemons

Sauce:
4 cloves garlic, divided use
Salt, to taste
½ teaspoon ground cloves
½ teaspoon coriander
1/4 teaspoon cumin
½ teaspoon oregano
½ cup fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons soy sauce
8 guajillo chiles
2 white onions, diced
2 habaneros, chopped
3 jalapeños, chopped
1 pound ripe pineapple, cubed
1 tomato, diced

To assemble:
30 small flour tortillas
1 pound bayo beans or red beans, boiled and mashed
Baby radishes, sliced, for garnish
Micro cilantro or other microgreens, for garnish

Peel and clean the seafood. Season with salt, pepper, olive oil, and lemon juice, and set aside.

Combine 2 cloves garlic and salt in mortar until a paste forms. In either a large mortar or food processor, add garlic paste and process together with cloves, coriander seeds, cumin and oregano. Add mayonnaise, mustard and soy sauce. Set mixture aside.

Roast the guajillo chilies, first removing seeds and boiling briefly to soften. Once roasted, blend with remaining 2 cloves garlic and onion, and mix with seasoning sauce. Add habaneros, jalapeños, pineapple and tomato to sauce.

Marinate seafood with this sauce for at least 90 minutes.

Heat your grill. Grill the seafood over direct heat until it acquires a roasted color and is done, about 5 minutes.

To assemble: Take a tortilla and spread bayo beans over it. Add grilled seafood and top with radishes and microgreens.

Makes 10-12 servings.

Adapted from Paco Isordia of Viceroy Zihuatanejo

For more information on Best of Mexico or other Culinaria events, click here.

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Putting the Grand Back in the Grand Tasting


Several years ago, Culinaria’s Grand Tasting was too grand. So many people showed up that lengthy lines were the order of the evening, and guests had to wait so long that they didn’t really get to sample all of the food and wine treasures of the evening. And they weren’t quiet about the frustrations they faced.

Sample some fine wines at Culinaria's Grand Tasting.

Sample some fine wines at Culinaria’s Grand Tasting.

So, the organizers of the event took a good look at the Grand Tasting and made some changes. Last year, the number of tickets was limited, so that there were be no more lines of more than a few minutes. A VIP section promised no lines at all within a secluded area.

The new approach worked so well that it’s the model for this Saturday’s Grand Tasting, set for the Grotto at the Henry B. Gonzalez Convention Center, 200 E. Market St. The fun runs from 7 to 10 p.m.

Chefs from all over the city will be serving up samples of their latest and best creations, while wines from all over the world will be poured. And spirits will be featured as well.

Enjoy some finely crafted treats from the city's top chefs.

Enjoy some finely crafted treats from the city’s top chefs.

Those who buy VIP tickets will be treated to a bubbles room with fine Champagnes and sparkling wines. Plus, one chef will be devoted to the limited access area, dubbed the Bubble Room for the evening, and he’ll provide small bites for made especially for these guests.

Tickets for the Grand Tasting are $100 apiece or $125 at the door, while tickets for the VIP area are priced at $150 and are sold only in advance.

For more information and to purchase tickets for the Grand Tasting or other events during Culinaria’s Festival Week, click here.

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Improve Your Knowlege Over a Glass or Two of Wine


wine white

Learn more about Gewurztraminers, Rieslings and other white wines.

Seminar is such a dry word that it has you reaching for a glass of whatever’s handy in hopes of escaping the stuffiness of what’s around you.

Yet Culinaria is offering three seminars during its Festival Week that will have you reaching for your glasses in a refreshing new way.

All three are grouped under the heading Taste Test Education, which sounds like more fun than, say, Russian Theory or Introduction to Medieval Technology. All are set for Saturday at Arcade Midtown Kitchen, 303 Pearl Parkway, and will entertain you while taking you to new places in the wine world. The schedule includes:

“Gewurz – what?” at 1:30 p.m.

The sweet wines that are much easier to taste than to pronounce. Sweet wines do not always equal dessert wines. In this Taste Test, we’ll examine the Gewürztraminers, Rieslings and other tasty white wines that are gaining respect and a following all their own.

“Name That Price” at 3 p.m.

It’s a fun, interactive, educational way to taste wine – as if wine tasting isn’t already fun? Using the senses and knowledge of wine, the challenge is to see if attendees can taste the difference and pick the correct value of the presented wines. Quality wines can be found at many price points.

“Wine + Cocktails” at 4:30 p.m.

A glass (or two) of wine stands strong on its own, but, these days, a cocktail incorporating wine is a whole new game. This progressive and modern seminar will explore the various cocktails made even better with the addition of wine.

Each class is priced at $30 a person, but you can get a combo ticket to all three for $75. For tickets to any of Culinaria’s events, click here.

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Wine, Beer and Scotch — Dine with the Finest During Culinaria’s Festival Week


This is Culinaria’s Festival Week, and the fun begins Wednesday with a series of themed dinners at restaurants around town.

Wine dinners, a beer dinner, even a scotch dinner — they’re all happening on Wednesday and Thursday.

WEDNESDAY

Wine dinners, a beer dinner and a scotch dinner are all part of Culinaria's Festival Week.

Wine dinners, a beer dinner and a scotch dinner are all part of Culinaria’s Festival Week.

  • Boiler House, 312 Pearl Parkway, (210) 354-4644  — Five-course dinner featuring wines from Flat Creek Estate. Highlights: Pickled big-eye tuna salad, rice cracker crusted diver scallop, and grilled hard spice lamb shoulder skewer. Call for price.
  • Arcade Midtown Kitchen, 303 Pearl Parkway, (210) 369-9664 — Four-course dinner with Bonterra Wines includes Hamachi and Scallop Ceviche, Duck Barbacoa Soft Taco and Pecan Smoked Lamb Leg. Price: $55.
  • Bliss, 926 S. Presa St., (210) 225-2547 — Six-course dinner with Ramian Wines includes chicken-fried oyster slider, Texas Rabbit, Duck/Duck/Foie and prime strip steak. Price: $100.
  • Francesca’s at Sunset at the Westin La Cantera, 16641 La Cantera Parkway, (210) 558-2253 — Five-course dinner features Dina Mondavi of Folio and the Beckers of Becker Vineyards. Highlights include Scallop and Orange Blossom Ravioli, Black Cod Brandade and Rib-eye. Price: $95.
  • Lüke Riverwalk, 125 E. Houston St., (210) 227-LUKE (5853) — Wine dinner with Duchman Wines features four courses, including Charred Bandera Quail with Poteet Strawberries and Roasted Cabrito with Eggplant Confit. Price: $75.

THURSDAY

  • Culinaria Logo croppedBIN 555, 555 W. Bitters Road, (210) 496-0555 — The Umai Mi Dinner features a number of Asian-inspired small and large plates, including Spicy Wings, Hot Sticky Ribs, Lemongrass Roasted Chicken, Spicy Cumin Lamb, Tiger’s Cry Flank Steak and Tamarind Glazed Smoked Brisket. Food paired with various wines. $85
  • Boiler House, 312 Pearl Parkway, (210) 354-4644 — Six-course beer dinner features Brined Duck Pastrami, Braised Pork Belly and Sweetbread and Spinach Stuffed Quail. Beers include selections from Blue Moon and Leininkugel’s plus others. Call for price.
  • Ruth’s Chris Downtown, 1170 E. Commerce St.,   — The Scotch dinner features four courses of food and four scotches, including Oban, Cragganmore, Lagavulin and Dalwinnie. Dishes include a crabtini, wild mushroom bisque and a petit filet. Price: $90.

Prices do not include tax or tip.

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Is Your Mom a Foodie? Culinaria Has a Gift Idea for Her


Culinaria Logo croppedThis year, Culiniaria is offering a Mother’s Day gift idea called the Trio.

It includes a ticket to each of the following three events during Culinaria’s upcoming festival:

  • Friday, May 17, The Best of Mexico at The Shops at La Cantera, 7 to 10 p.m.
  • Saturday, May 18, The Grand Tasting at The Grotto at the Henry B. Gonzalez Convention Center, 7 to 10 p.m.
  • Sunday, May 19, Burgers, BBQ & Beer at the Pearl, 1 to 4 p.m.

The price of the package is $148, which includes a savings of 20 percent off the individual ticket price. To purchase this package, go to eventbrite.com.

 

 

 

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Culinaria Festival Week 2013: Tickets On Sale Now


Jeff Balfour, chef at Citrus, created this popular boudain sausage patty topped with pickled shrimp.

Jeff Balfour, chef at Citrus, created this popular boudain sausage patty topped with pickled shrimp for Burgers, BBQ & Beer.

Culinaria hosts a wide range of activities year-round. Tickets now are on sale for the main event. That is, the 2013 Festival Week that is set for May 15-19.  The festival is filled with food and chefs, wine and winemakers, vendors, entertainment and  and great chances to mingle with other food and wine lovers.

Act fast — there is a one-week 15-percent discount on select tickets.  (The discount does not apply to Food Truck Event, Bubble Room or any children’s tickets.)
The Events:
Winemaker Dinners: Wednesday and Thursday May 15, 16
Food Truck Event: May 16, 6-9 p.m.
Becker Luncheon: At Becker Vineyards in Stonewall, May 17.
The Best of Mexico: Shops at La Cantera, May 17, 1-4 p.m.
Sabado at Casa Hernan, Saturday Morning Brunch: May 18, 11-1 p.m.
The Bubble Room at the Grand Tasting: Advance purchase only, May 18, 6-9 p.m.
Grand Tasting, May 18, 7-10 p.m., Henry Gonzales Convention Center, Grotto
Burgers BBQ & Beer: The Pearl, May 19, 1-4 p.m.
For ticket information and more, link here to Culinaria Events

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Biga, Culinary Community Host Benefit for One of Their Own


San Antonio’s culinary community will step up to the plate later this month to help a member of the team at Biga on the Banks, and his family, as they face a difficult time.

Biga’s executive sous chef Daniel Dirmeyer has been an integral member of the Biga Team for 10 years. He writes all the special events menus and executes them, and serves as co-chef Martin Stembera under chef and owner Bruce Auden.

Dirmeyer has five children. His 8-year-old daughter, Emma, has been diagnosed with an aggressive brain tumor and is undergoing radiation in the coming weeks, five days a week.

To help Dirmeyer, his wife, Laciee and Emma’s four siblings, Biga will host a benefit to aid them financially and in spirit.

“We will be hosting a benefit brunch, food-station event at Biga on Sunday,  Jan. 20, from noon-3 p.m.,” said a Biga spokesperson. Biga on the Banks is at 203 S. St. Mary’s St.

A stellar line-up of San Antonio chefs, as well as others from out of the city, have committed to help and will man their own stations including Mark Bliss, Chad Carey, Luca de la Casa, Gabriel Ibarra, Zack Lutton, Diana Barrios Trevino, Jason Dady, Lisa Filip, Andrew Weismann, Brian West and Steven McHugh.

Ultimat Vodka will be sponsoring the Bloody Mary bar and there will be wine. Henry Brun and the International Trio will donate their musical talents to the cause. Biga staff and others will be donating their time.

The all-inclusive cost per person is $125.  Please make checks payable to Culinaria, and mail them to Biga on the Banks, attention Perny Shea. The address is 203 S. Saint Mary’s St., San Antonio, TX 78205. Or click here to purchase them online with a credit card.

Only 300 tickets are available. The benefit hosts encourage you to buy as many tickets as you can or help with a donation if you are unable to attend.

For more information visit Team Emma’s Facebook or call Perny at (210) 225-0722.

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2012 Was a Year of Eating Well


The Pearl has become a food lover’s center for festivals as well as restaurants.

Bliss is aptly named.

As we approach the end of 2012, it’s time to look back on the many great flavors that we sampled. The list is lengthy, thanks to a decided upturn in culinary offerings across the city, both on the dining scene and for the food lover in general.

One of the biggest food stories of the year was the continued growth of the Pearl Brewery, which saw the opening of three praise-worthy eateries and a trendy bar. It also was the location of an increasing number of food festivals, meaning thousands from all over the city were showing up on a regular basis for cooking demonstrations at the Saturday farmers market, for paella, burgers and barbecue or tamales, and for the restaurants, all in the quest of good food.

A glimpse into the kitchen at the Granary.

The list of new restaurants includes the Granary ‘Cue and Brew, which restored beer making to the premises. Artisan barbecue, fine brews and an irresistible condiment known as ‘cue butter all made this a welcome addition. The Boiler House Texas Grill and Wine Garden delivers on the belief that quality grilled meat is prerequisite in the Lone Star State, and the massive setting, covering two stories, is epic enough to complement chef James Moore’s ranch-style fare.

The most intriguing addition, though, is NAO, the Culinary Institute of America’s full-service restaurant, which has provided San Antonio with its broadest and most authentic taste of South and Central American cuisines to date. These exciting flavors, from seafood stews and roasted meats to an inviting cocktail program, have somehow not been able to secure a foothold before in a city that values its Tex-Mex above all; yet in just a few months, NAO has developed a local following, and its client base should grow as word continues to get out to the rest of the country that the school has a campus and a destination restaurant here. When the visiting chef series returns, with culinary stars from countries as diverse as Brazil, Peru and Argentina, you’d be wise to make your reservations as soon as possible.

The CIA’s flagship restaurant in San Antonio.

NAO is also built on the concept of small plates, which has also not been widely popular in San Antonio. Yet Bite in the Southtown area and a revitalized Nosh on Austin Highway are joining in the effort to break that mold.

Southtown continued to attract diners from across the city, as Mark Bliss returned with a new restaurant, the aptly named Bliss. The warmth of the place, the impressive setting and the comfort of the food, especially when enjoyed at the chef’s table in the kitchen, all help place it among the city’s best.

Johnny Hernandez opened two distinct venues in the Southtown area, if not Southtown proper. They include the Frutería at the Steel House Lofts, where you can get everything from market-fresh fruit for breakfast to an impressive array of, you got it, small plates for dinner, and Casa Hernán, an airy catering facility and brunch spot in his own home.

Another welcome addition to the Southtown scene was the Alamo Street Eat Bar, a food truck park that featured crazy good burgers from Cullum’s Attaboy, the Peacemaker combination of pork belly and fried oysters from Where Y’At and the DUK Truck’s duck confit tacos. Add Zum Sushi, The Institute of Chili, Wheelie Gourmet and a few other visitors, as well as a great beer lineup, and you’ve got some wonderful fresh treats. And what do food trucks provide but small plates, albeit from different plates, giving you the feel of being on a tapas trail?

An “Eat Street” crew films at the Point Park & Eats.

Another food truck park that opened up north in Leon Springs was the Point Park & Eat, which also offers a great beer selection and a wide array of foods from a lineup that has changed in the months that it’s been open. The culinary confections come from trucks such as Skinny Cat, Gourmet on the Fly, Blazin’ Burgers and Say-She-Ate.

Television continued to discover may of these culinary gems. Say-She-Ate was one of four food trucks filmed for the TV series, “Eat Street.” The others include Rickshaw Stop, Tapa Tapa and Society Bakery. Meanwhile, PBS celebrity chef Ming Tsai came to town to film segments of “Simply Ming” with Diana Barrios Treviño from Los Barrios, Elizabeth Johnson of the CIA, John Besh of Lüke (visiting from New Orleans) and Johnny Hernandez at La Gloria.

Sustenio, with Stephan Pyles’ blessing and David Gilbert’s gifts, made people realize the Eilan Hotel Resort and Spa off I-10 was not just a pretty façade. Its menu, with much of the dishes derived from local meats and produce, features an exciting array of ceviches that captured the freshness of the sea and a number of dishes using South Texas Heritage Pork products.

The $13 Burger at Knife & Fork.

The gastropub movement continued with the opening of Knife & Fork in the Stone Oak area. An outgrowth of the Bistro Six food truck, it offered a $13 Burger worth every cent, an extensive cocktail program and a laid-back atmosphere.

Meanwhile, the bistronomy craze — a hybrid of “bistro” and “gastronomy” — could be found in Laurent’s Modern Cuisine on McCullough Avenue. Next door to the still-vibrant and dependable Bistro Vatel, it proved that a segment of San Antonio does love its French food.

For those who enjoy a meal every now and then at home, the number of gourmet groceries grew, thanks to the addition of Trader Joe’s in the Quarry Extension and a second Whole Foods on Blanco Road, north of Loop 1604. The food warehouse Gaucho Gourmet expanded its hours to the public to six days a week, while Groomer’s Seafood reeled in even more seafood lovers, especially when lobsters hit a mouthwatering low of $5.95 apiece.

Classic cocktails have made a comeback.

San Antonio lifted it spirits high during the year. Distilled spirits, that is. Mixed drinks, both shaken and stirred, got a huge boost from the first annual San Antonio Cocktail Conference. But it didn’t stop there. The Blue Box in the Pearl and the downtown Brooklynite joined the likes of Bar 1919 in the Blue Star Complex and the bar at NAO as havens for hand-crafted classic cocktails. A rye sour shaken with traditional egg white, a real martini made with gin and a pisco sour bright with freshly squeezed citrus were all incentives that made exploring these nightspots fun.

Expect beer’s popularity to soar in the new year. Beyond the excellent brews at the Granary, we await Alamo Beer’s ambitious plans for a downtown complex that will feature a restaurant as well as a brewing facility as well as the launch of Branchline Brewery.

What else can we expect? The Pearl will continue to expand with the openings of Jesse Perez’s Arcade Midtown Kitchen and an as-yet-unnamed venture from Steven McHugh as well as the move of Green Vegetarian Cuisine, all of which will add to the draw of the campus. Culinaria has announced plans for a community garden center offering food and agricultural education for the city. Andrew Weissman is taking over the former Liberty Bar site on Josephine Street.

With these strides forward on so many fronts, the city’s culinary scene should continue to offer some enticing new flavors for anyone with a healthy appetite.

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Try It. It’s Good for You. And It Tastes Great.


Chef John Brand and his son, Malachi, prepare amaranth-crusted avocado.

Fall announced its arrival Sunday with temperatures dropping to the 50s and a definite nip in the air.

Mela offers two types of Indian chicken.

Yet that didn’t stop hundreds of people from reaching the Pearl Brewery Sunday on bike, on foot and in their cars for the first Feastivál, a tribute to healthy eating that Culinaria presented with H-E-B.

While they sipped wine and sampled healthy snacks from area restaurants and food purveyors, they listened to Dan Evans, a country singer who lost 136 pounds on TV’s “The Biggest Loser” and worked up some warmth doing a few zumba steps. Cooking demonstrations and wine seminars were on the menu as well.

Some of the snacks included a lemon seafood salad from chef Jeffrey Balfour at Citrus in the Hotel Valencia, amaranth-crusted avocado from chef John Brand of Las Canarias and Ostra, chicken tikka and tandoori chicken from Mela, black beans and brown rice from EZ’s, and guacamole with mango salsa on a jicama base from Paloma Blanca. Mike Behrend’s Green Vegetarian Cuisine offered a mixed plate with a pea, baby lima, edamame and carrot salad tossed with a touch of truffle oil.

Citrus’ Jeffrey Balfour presents a lemony seafood salad.

Jesse Perez, whose Arcade is opening at the Pearl later this year, offered a warming cup of butternut squash soup with feta. Steven McHugh, whose restaurant at the Pearl will opening the spring, offered roasted beets with blood orange over an avocado-ricotta spread. The two bros., Jason and Jake Dady, were on hand with smoked turkey from their Two Bros. BBQ Market.

A group of students from the Culinary Institute of America lit the fire pit and drew diners with tea-smoked salmon over vegetable couscous.

H-E-B, Zeric’s, Brio Tuscan Grille, and Eoni, which makes Bazookie whole grain and fruit bars, also offered tasty treats.

“It was amazing and healthy,” said Culinaria CEO Suzanne Taranto Etheredge, adding that both sponsoring organizations were pleased with the turnout and the fact that word is getting out that healthful food can taste great.

A group of students from the CIA dishes up tea-smoked salmon at the fire pit.

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Sunday’s Feastivál Serves Up Healthful Food That Tastes Great


This Sunday, sink your teeth into something that tastes great and is good for you.

Culinaria and H-E-B are teaming up for Feastivál at the Pearl Amphitheater. The event from noon until 3 p.m.

Feastivál will give you a chance to explore a range of wholesome, savory dishes that won’t expand your waistline, and yet it will all tempt your taste buds.

Cooking demonstrations and plenty of recipes will show you how healthy living can be delicious!

Plus, there will be seminars featuring a favorite health food of many: wine.

John Griffin and Bonnie Walker of SavorSA and the authors of “Food Lovers’ Guide to San Antonio will be on hand to autograph copies of their book, which sells for $15 apiece.

Tickets are $10 in advance at your local H-E-B or $20 at the door.

 

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