Pepe's Plate, a trio of enchiladas

Bee’s Mexican Restaurant on Lockhill Selma off Blanco Road came as something of a surprise.

Sure, the extensive menu is filled with old favorites, from flautas and calupas to puffy tacos and a pork chop plate. But how many places in town offer a machacado breakfast plate ($8.50) using house-made dried goat meat?

How many have a combination enchilada plate as good as Pepe’s Plate ($7.25)?

I don’t know who Pepe is, but he should be proud of the trio of enchiladas that pay homage to him. Each is filled with flavorful shredded chicken and comes served with its own sauce. The first I sampled, with the verde sauce, was the one I saved the rest of for last. The tomatillos had a fresh zing that made them stand out. The second had a comforting ranchera sauce, and the third has the more traditional gravy with cheese. A dab of cooling sour cream at the center more than made up for a too-slick guacamole.

Goat machacado

A breakfast visit the next morning brought a plate of the machacado, in which the meat was scrambled with eggs and a touch of hot sauce. The flavor of the goat was rich and complements the eggs well, but I must admit a few strands were a little too tough to chew. Yet the plate as a whole proved a satisfying eye-opener, especially with refrieds filled with pork flavor and papas fritas. (I realize the word machacado can refer to any dried meat, but most San Antonio restaurants that I’ve visited have feature beef.)

A lengua taco ($1.99) on the side had plenty of soft cubes of meat cooked in a soothing sauce tucked inside an excellent handmade flour tortilla.

Lengua taco

Bee’s doesn’t stop with the savories. It is also a bakery, and from the midst of Mexican favorites, I chose a slice of coffee cake that was moist and delicious. (My takeout menu  mentions it’s a family sports bar, too, with winearitas and beers.)

The restaurant is as bright as an Easter basket with plenty of pastel colors. The staff is equally warm; and though Spanish is more prevalent than English, it was easy to ask questions about the food. That is, when they had a moment to stop. Bee’s is a popular spot, and from two recent visits, it’s easy to see why.

Bee’s Mexican Restaurant
808 Lockhill Selma
(210) 342-1886
Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner

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Chicken Piccata

Romeo’s Italian Grill & Bar is one of the latest chain restaurants to open on the north end of Loop 1604. But it needs an overhaul if it’s going to succeed on a strip with at least two other chain Italian restaurants, Romano’s Macaroni Grill and Johnny Carino’s, nearby.

Let’s start with the exterior of the restaurant, which doesn’t do a great deal to invite you in. All you can see from the street are the words “Italian Grill & Bar.” The word “Romeo’s” is lost in a heart logo to the side and the type is too small to read, even when you’re within 20 feet or so of the restaurant. So, don’t tell your friends to meet you at Romeo’s; if they don’t know where the restaurant is, they’re not likely to find it too easily.

If they do catch up with you and order wrong, they may not want to stay friends too much longer – or at least they will not likely let you pick the restaurant in the near future. (Believe me, my friends’ comments on some of the restaurant’s shortcomings were far less polite than mine.)

Problems for us, on two separate visits, began shortly after we sat down. That’s when our pleasant, if adequate, server greeted us with the usual seasoned oil and bread. The bread was quite good, warm and yeasty, but the oil was yellowish, not green, and had little discernable flavor, so you know it was far from EVOO.

Sausage Pizza

But a lack of flavor is better than what we were presented with when an order of caramelized sausages arrived. Slices of Italian sausage caked in a corn syrupy sauce gave off an acrid, chemical flavor that practically double-dog-dared you to take another bite. I revisited the plate after it had cooled down to room temperature, and the incompatible flavors were even more evident.

A bowl of chicken cappellini soup might have landed in the plus category, if the soup had been hot and if it had been made with a touch of salt in the stock to bring out its flavors.

Missing salt was also apparent in a woeful chicken piccata dish. The chicken breast had been grilled to the point of desiccation, leaving a sawdust-like texture to the lacquered meat.

Spinach Salad

The same unfortunately was true of the pork loin, which arrived with an odd pesto sauce on the plate. Instead of using fresh basil leaves, this concoction seemed to be made from dried basil and, as a result, had acquired a bitterness that was off-putting. On both occasions, I shoved the meat to the side and concentrated on the asparagus spears.

More dishes in need of help were a Caesar salad, made with the tough, outer leaves of Romaine; a sausage and peppers pasta dish that suffered from too much uncooked wine, too much tomato sauce and too much sugar; and a bland lasagna that was cold at the center despite arrive in a clay dish that radiated heat.

We did like a spinach salad that had fresh leaves and bacon tossed in just enough dressing to coat the leaves but not drown them. It was coveted by everyone else at the table because of its fresh, pristine flavors.

Cannoli

A sausage pizza also had possibilities, thanks to the meat used. But so much cornmeal had stuck to the bottom crust that it affected the flavor.

Romeo’s has an attractive bar in one corner with an extensive array of bottles, but my friends and I chose to focus on the food instead.

The one dessert we tried was even further off course than the rest of what we sampled. It was a cannoli, and the cream filling had so much almond extract that it brought back memories of Agatha Christie’s and Erle Stanley Gardner’s warnings about cyanide poisoning. We survived the cannoli; but if Romeo’s is to survive, someone in the kitchen needs to get to work.

Romeo’s Italian Grill & Bar
115 E. Loop 1604
San Antonio, TX 78258
(210) 545-0101
www.romeosrestaurants.com
Open daily for lunch and dinner

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3-meat plate with brisket, sausage ring, pork ribs, macaroni salad, and green beans.

I first met Ed and Waldean Ashford when they sold their barbecue from a mobile trailer that was usually parked on Houston Street. One plate convinced me that this was some of the best ’cue in town with its healthy infusion of mesquite smoke into meats that were moist yet deliciously tender.

But the trailer disappeared and so, I thought, had the barbecue.

I couldn’t have been more wrong.

It seems the couple found a permanent space on South W.W. White Road, where Ed’s Smok-N-Q has been in operation for the past 14 months, building up a devoted clientele. The trailer is still there, parked at the back, where it serves as smokehouse.

Stacy (left), Ed and Waldean Ashford.

Inside, you’ll find the big board listing your meat choices, which include ribs, brisket, chopped pork, sausage or sausage rings, turkey legs and chicken. Sides include macaroni salad, potato salad, and a host of bean options: green, baked, ranch or pintos.

In two visits, I’ve pretty much had the lot and have come away smiling both times.

The barbecue, in many ways, was better than I had remembered it being. Favorites included the ribs, with an excellent outer crust leading to a deep, juicy, smoky layer of meat underneath; the sausage rings with an evenly ground meat tightly packed in its casing; and the dark meat chicken, with a crispy skin that seemed lacquered onto the thigh.

A friend who is a true brisket aficionado just sat there barely making a sound as she devoured bite after bite. A low, contented sigh escaped her lips and she shook her head in amazement. “This brisket is just perfect,” she said, before heading back for another forkful.

She liked it for the same reason that I liked the ribs: the almost-black, crusty edge, the smoke layer, the tender meat inside. None of it was overcooked to the point where it was mealy or would literally fall apart at the touch of a fork.

The thick cuts of brisket admittedly can be on the fatty side, which I love and I know others do not. So, if you’re bothered by that little extra fatty flavor, you may want to ask to have the fat removed beforehand.

The turkey leg was enormous. Big enough to feed a family of four, one friend cracked. Think of Bamm Bamm’s ever-present club on “The Flintstones” – that is, if you’re old enough to know who the Flintstones were – and you’ll have an idea of what I mean. The flavor was dense and smoky, if the texture was a little like jerky.

Smoked turkey leg

The chicken breast dry, too, and not too flavorful, but a dip or two into the tangy-sweet barbecue sauce helped revive it.

Among the side dishes, I’d suggest trying the green beans, if you want something savory. I loved the touch of heat and vinegar on the broad, fresh beans. The macaroni salad was loaded with mayonnaise and pickle, while the ranch beans had the right touch of chili powder and smoke. The potato salad was fine, but your taste for it will depend on if you like that particular style, which is ultra-creamy and slightly sweet.

In the end, the side dishes don’t matter much to me when placed in the presence of that brisket or those ribs. In fact, a three-meat plate ($11.75 with two sides) is calling me right now.

Ed’s Smok-N-Q
902 S. W.W. White Road
(210) 359-1511
Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner

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(photos: Nicholas Mistry and John Griffin)

Let’s just say that the food far surpasses the setting at Jerusalem Grill.

“Middle Eastern food court.” That’s how one friend described the restaurant, situated in the armpit of a seen-better-days plaza across from Ingram Park Mall.

The outside patio, not terribly inviting in our recent cold spell, is actually quite relaxing in the summer as a place to listen to modern Arabic music, enjoy a hookah or just soak up some of the late-night scene. Right now, go inside where it’s warmer.

It’s warmer largely because the food is so wonderfully good, whether you are sitting in a booth marked by ersatz Arabian Nights molding or at one of the nondescript tables.

Most everything we sampled on a recent visit, even the one dish that drew some reservations, proved to be eye-openers to the friends who had never been there. One even made a return visit at the end of the week with her husband, who also raved.

What impresses the most, I think, is the freshness inherent in the food. In these dark days of winter, anything that tastes of spring or summer comes across as a blessing. And the parsley in the tabbouleh, for example, tasted as if it had just been picked. It’s true, the salad had far more salt than it needed (I even bit into a large cluster of salt crystals), but the brightness of the herb with plenty of lemon juice zing led me to finish off the serving.

Baba Ghanoush

It was one of five meze plates that came with the mixed plate for two. This meal is large enough to feed at least three, and is a true bargain at $26.95, because it also comes with three kebabs of your choice, pita bread and a plate of aromatic rice.

Another of the small plates we shared was a knockout baba ghanoush made with a robustly smoky eggplant while the top was sprinkled with a judicious amount of tangy sumac. With a little pita to spread it on, a plate of the creamy dip could have been enough for dinner for me.

But there was more. A fava bean salad was cool and crisp, with plenty of freshly chopped vegetables; a cucumber dill yogurt (this Middle Easter raita, if you know only Indian food); and the Jerusalem Salad, with a lively array of cucumber, onion and surprisingly good tomato in a tart dressing, rounded out our other choices.

And those were only the beginning. We opted for kebabs of beef, chicken and kefta (seasoned ground beef), all of which were moist and tender, with the chicken benefit most from a tart marinade.

Grilled kebabs and vegetables

Other friends spoke well of the warm fava bean dish, Foul Mudammas ($7.95), with its garlicky dressing; the stuffed grapes leaves on a bounteous vegetarian platter ($9.95) that shared many of the same dishes we had tried; and the crunchy falafel (fried garbanzo bean patties).

If you have any questions, just ask. Our server, who seemed to be the only waiter on duty, took the time to answer all questions and even made a later-than-last-minute substitution as if it were no problem.

A few facts about Jerusalem Grill: The meats are all halal. The menu says that diets, low-carb and low-fat, can be taken into account, so talk with your server beforehand. And the restaurant welcomes you to bring your own wine; you might want to bring your own glasses, too.

Jerusalem Grill
3259 Wurzbach Road
(210) 680-8400
Open daily for lunch and dinner

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Pho Thai Nam Gau (noodle soup with flank and brisket)

Most of us are familiar enough with Vietnamese cuisine by now that when the temperatures plunge our thoughts can easily turn to pho, the country’s famous, hearty noodle soup.

We treated ourselves to hot soup (and more) on Tuesday night at Pho Thien An. This small restaurant is on Rector Street, behind North Star Mall. The menu is large, however, and offers  Chinese dishes as well.

But it was noodle soup we wanted. When the steamy Pho Tai Nam Gau (noodle soup with sliced, medium-cooked flank and brisket) arrived, the steaming broth warmed us immediately with its robust scent of beef infused with light, sweet spices. The serving of tender noodles was generous and we dipped right in.

If you’re not familiar with pho, it’s just as simple as I’ve described it, but it comes with a plate piled high with fresh garnishes of deep herbs and bean sprouts, and condiments on the side. Pho Thien An’ s pho is worth stopping in for. The list of noodle soup is lengthy, and includes combinations of various meats and meatballs, and chicken, as well as one with vegetables and another without meat.

Men Murong Thu Duc (Grilled Meat Balls)

Pho was, to me, the main event on a shivery evening. But my companion might differ with my focus. His attention was caught by two favorite foods: clams and pork. Not in the same dish. We first tried the grilled pork meat balls, as an appetizer. These were as described — decidedly appetizing — with a lightly crunchy exterior, juicy centers and a tasty little  garnish of chopped peanuts and slivered green onions. A dab of the table Sriracha sauce gave them a boost.

My friend’s generous order of small clams, steamed in their shells and bathed in a deeply flavorful sate sauce, were studded with red and green pepper cut in tiny dice and plenty of peppery fresh basil.  He took half of them home, though, so that he could dig into another house specialty, a mega pork platter. I found the shreds of tender, steamed rice paper at the base of the dish as inviting as all that pork. But, the slices of pale sausage, spicy grilled bits of pork, and sliced pork ham were a delicious discovery, especially with some of the crunch, browned garlic slices on the side.

Bún topped with slivers of pork and sliced spring roll.

I took an order of bún home with me to share with my husband. There are more than a half-dozen varieties of this Vietnamese comfort food on the menu. On mine, the warm vermicelli noodles on lettuce greens were topped with slivers of pork and sliced spring roll. Our waiter encouraged us to pour over as much fish sauce, with shredded carrots, as we liked, too. This is a standard on even limited Vietnamese menus, and while it was good it was not nearly as fascinating as some of the other dishes.

While we explored a couple of these more unusual dishes on Pho Thien An’s menu, there was much on this menu to go back for.  Our friendly waiter was effusive about the attractions of the broken-steamed rice dishes. We were tempted by such entrées as the stir-fried baby clams with lemon grass and crunchy rice paper, and hot pot  offerings, including Lau De, or Lamb Hot Island Pot, looked promising.

Ending a meal at Pho Thien An is pretty much limited to having some creamy coffee or fruit smoothie/bubble drinks. But we’ll save those for one of our return visits.

Ngeu Xao Xa Te (Clams in Sate Sauce)

Banh Uot Thien An (house special steamed rice paper with sliced pork ham, grilled pork and sweet and sour pork sausage)

Pho Thien An
(behind North Star Mall)
Open daily for lunch and dinner
(210) 348-8526
(Fax) (210) 348-8157

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Kalua Pork and Cabbage

House made potato chips with mango-papaya salsa

Some time ago we visited this family-owned restaurant, then called the Aloha Kitchen, when it was on Austin Highway. It was at the rear of a flower shop. You walked past the counter where you ordered bouquets, through a small room where you could buy Hawaiian shirts and, if I recall correctly, macadamia nuts and other such items.

After taking a few turns in a maze of hallways you got to a large room filled with tables. Now, you were in the one place in town that you could sit down and order authentic Hawaiian favorites.

The family business recently moved in to a small restaurant space on Harry Wurzbach Road. There is no flower shop to negotiate here, but at the Aloha Grill we found the same big, friendly spirit that we had before, and some very good food.

The two sisters serving tables in the dining room called out “aloha” when we entered and when we departed. They were happy to answer our questions about Hawaiian cuisine, and our server, Renée, did so with obvious interest and detailed information.

Our first question was about the three-color fried chips that we ordered with a bowl of sweet, spicy and fruity Mango Papaya Salsa. These were potato chips, but the color differences were because of where they were grown in Hawaii. The various types of volcanic ash in the soil lent them their hues of off-white, purple or terracotta, we were told. The potatoes are sliced and packaged in Hawaii, but The Aloha Grill fries them in house. They were a little greasy, but that’s never stopped us before from liking house-cooked chips. (In fact, salt sticks better to greasy chips than dry ones.) The salsa was simple but satisfying.  I am sure we’ll order it when we return.

Nalu's Teri Burger

Looking at their list of “Local Kine Favorites” we skipped the poi, a starchy paste that is a Hawaiian staple, and moved down the list to the Spam Musabi. Spam is another popular food in Hawaii, and we weren’t being snobs (well, not too much) by not ordering it.

Instead, we’d seen something more appealing, the Lomi Lomi Salmon. This dish was a reminiscent of pico de gallo or ceviche. Diced fresh salmon was mixed with similarly cut onion and tomato. The result was an ultra-fresh, mild-tasting mixture that we ate by the spoonful. It would also have been good as a dip or a topping for bruschetta.

My companion’s eyes are trained to go first to the pork on any given menu. Hawaiians love pork, and the dish that caught his eye was the Kalua Pork and Cabbage. The shredded roast pork, in a light pork-flavored broth, was mixed with perfectly cooked fresh cabbage mounded on top of sticky rice. It was so lovely to behold that I almost abandoned my Teri Burger, a half pound of hand-pressed Black Angus served on a toasted bun with teriyaki mayonnaise.

Lomi Lomi Salmon

We ended up sharing, as we generally do. The pork and cabbage was simple, but sheer comfort, all the way down to the broth-soaked lumps of warm rice. The burger was a perfect medium, the trimmings were fresh. I really liked the teriyaki mayonnaise.

When we go back (and we definitely will be back) the next pork venture will probably be the Pork Adobo; the beef lover will probably give the Mauimarkie Cheese Steak Sandwich (sliced grilled rib-eye, marinated in Teriyaki sauce, topped with melted Swiss cheese) a try.

Dessert was a choice between Mango Pie or Pineapple Cake.  We had both, it only seemed right. Had this been a contest, I think the fresh, creamy flavors of the pie pushed it just ahead of the cake – even though the cake tasted freshly made, heavily frosted (a good thing) and rich in pineapple flavor and macadamia nut texture.

The Aloha Grill offers much to go back to – we didn’t try the Aloha Maid juices, with choices like strawberry guava and passion orange. We were almost hooked by the Crab Quiche, too, or Uncle Choona’s Beef Kalbi, a Korean specialty that was served at the Aloha Kitchen, too.

Pineapple cake

Mango pie

We never did try the poi. My friend had been to Hawaii and didn’t just love the poi he’d had there, and I was similarly unimpressed with my experience of it. But we’ll trust Aloha Grill to show us, next time, just what good poi should taste like.

While I’d really like to mention every other dish on the menu, I hope you’ll go discover them for yourselves. You will be glad you gave this warm little restaurant a try. The ambience is pared-down simple, but the real atmosphere comes from the good aromas, tastes and friendliness of the personnel, as well as the authenticity of the food.

The Aloha Grill
1151 Harry Wurzbach Road (and Burr Road)
(210) 826-7426
www.thealohagrill.com
Lunch: Mon.-Fri., 11 a.m. – 2 p.m.
Dinner: Tue.- Sat., 5-8 p.m.
Closed Sundays

Buddha Delight

I have visiting Vietnam Gardens on Blanco Road at Jackson-Keller off and on for almost 10 years now. The food, whether you order Vietnamese, Thai or Chinese, has always been exceptionally good, and the prices have been equally fine.

The restaurant’s menu and website offer a hint as to why:  “We appreciate your patience in allowing us enough time to prepare your meal properly, since it’s prepared only after you order.”

That means no stock pots of gelatinous goo that has been bubbling away for hours on the stove, no frozen dishes popped in the microwave and partially reheated before serving, no rubbery egg rolls that tasted like they were made last week.

But I’m somewhat afraid not enough people have discovered this gem.

I stopped in on a recent rainy Monday and found myself the only person in the restaurant, which was a shame because the dish I ordered was truly special. It was a seafood salad ($8.95) from the Thai menu, and it featured a spicy stir-fry of shrimp and squid tossed with lettuce, celery, cucumber, onion, carrot and tomato.

The winning mixture of warm seafood sautéed with cool, crisp vegetables was inviting. One bite and I couldn’t stop eating until the last hot pepper was gone. I even ate the underripe tomato, a fixture at far too many restaurants this time of year. (It was my fault for not asking that they be left out.)

On another recent visit, I told our server, who is also an owner, that I wanted something spicy with pork in it, and I let the kitchen do its magic. The end result was a Thai-style stir fry with plenty of meat and plenty of heat. Just perfect.

Seafood Salad

From the Vietnamese menu, I love to sample their version of Ban Xeo ($6.95), a thin crepe with a delicate crunch. This version arrives with pork, shrimp, bean sprouts and lettuce inside, while fresh herbs and jalapeños arrive on the side so you can season it to your liking. Very simple, yet effective.

Shrimp Lemon Grass ($8.95) and Curry Squid ($8.95) are among the other Vietnamese dishes I would recommend.

Of the Chinese dishes, I’ve only had one of the vegetarian options, Buddha Delight ($6.95) with its blend of Asian eggplant and other favorites, on recent visits. But I will say that I remember enjoying the chop suey ($6.95 or $7.95, depending on style), the twice-cooked pork ($6.95 — and yes, I love the pork at Asian restaurants), and the egg foo young ($6.95 or $7.95, depending on style) in the past.

If you take a large group, think about sharing your orders family style around the table. Because the dishes are prepared individually, they are also served that way, so not all of the guests will receive their order at the same time. But passing the plates around will make the meal more communal, more intimate, more enjoyable.

So will bringing a bottle or two of wine to share. The folks at Vietnam Gardens welcome your bringing in your own wine to go with your meal. (You may want to bring your own glasses, too.) A spicy Gewurztraminer or off-dry Riesling would certainly go with the seafood dishes and anything with some heat. An icy rosé with plenty of strawberry or watermelon flavors might also work well. If you’re a red head, then think Zinfandel or maybe a peppery Syrah/Shiraz.

Whatever you take, including a pilsner, just relax and enjoy fresh food made for you at a reasonable price. That’s what makes Vietnam Gardens so inviting.

Vietnam Gardens
5433 Blanco Road
(210) 377-1989
www.vietnamgardens.com
Lunch and dinner: Monday-Saturday

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Pork with green beans and fried pollock

You’d never think to look at the outside of South Garden Chinese Restaurant that good things lie in store inside. The nondescript restaurant in a distressed strip mall along Fredericksburg Road is more forbidding than inviting. Yet the number of cars outside during lunch should convince you that this is a place where many have not judged it by its cover.

Inside, the dining room is warm with nice splashes of color and Asian touches that are minimal yet well-chosen. The staff is friendly, adding to a feeling of really being welcome.

Though friendly, the staff is also at varying degrees of efficiency, as we soon found out. It seems we had a pair of servers waiting on our table and offering a bit of a Mutt-and-Jeff experience. One would go off to ask someone for an answer to every little question while the other, following quickly on the first man’s heels, made everything we wanted happen. We’ll gladly take the latter, thank you.

And we’ll gladly take another cup of the hot and sour soup, which had a medium broth with plenty of spice and sourness without being overly gelatinous, as you’ll find all too often elsewhere. It came with the lunch special and was a better starter than a plate of spring rolls we tried that had a perfectly hot, crispy exterior and yet had cabbage at the center that tasted somewhat old and slightly cold.

Vegetarian spring rolls

Moo Shu Pork ($8.95), not on the lunch menu but available any time, was near perfect. The cabbage this time had been sautéed to the point of being soft and crunchy, exuding a natural sweetness that completmented the strips of pork. (At South Garden, the servers do not roll up the stir-fry into the pancakes, which we prefer. )

A lunch combination plate ($6.75 lunch/$8.50 dinner) of fried pollock and pork with green beans showed some of the shortcomings of South Garden. The fish was obviously processed elsewhere, a rectangular shape not found in nature, breaded and fried to a deep golden brown. It came with packets of tarter sauce and seems to be the default item on the menu for those who don’t like Chinese. It had decent flavor, but it’s more of what I’d order at a McDonald’s than a Chinese restaurant.

Moo Shu Pork

On the other hand, the pork with green beans was just right, with just enough sauce to let the meat and vegetable flavors emerge without being swamped. Like the soup, the sauce was not overly thick and tasted more of soy, ginger and garlic than cornstarch.

An egg roll that came with the lunch special was full of Asian five-spice. It was a triffle soggy but that didn’t matter when hit with a dose of nostril-clearing hot mustard. Pork fried rice was a bit skimpy on the pork, yet had a good flavor.

If I were driving down Fredericksburg Road and wanted something besides the sea of taquerias that line both sides, South Garden would definitely draw me back.

South Garden Chinese Restaurant
3909 Fredericksburg Road
(210) 738-3388
Lunch: Monday-Saturday. Dinner: Daily.

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Sausage and Pepperoni Pizza

This smallish restaurant, perched next to a short street that slopes down into the Embassy Oaks Shopping Center, is housed in what was formerly West Avenue Kitchen and before that, for quite some time, Magnolia Pancake Haus.

I like what they’ve done with the place. Where Magnolia was country-homey, Julian’s has dressed up in red-and-white-checked table coverings and opened up the kitchen. A big walk-up ordering bar is backed by a huge blackboard menu, crowded with offerings to titillate any appetite that demands Italian.

We liked some of Julian’s food enough that we’ll definitely be back for more.  One of the first things you should know before going, though, is that Julian’s pizza slices are enormous.  I’d say one slice equals two generous slices from most other pizzerias.

What I liked about the pizza was the crunchy bottom of the crust, the tanginess of the sauce, the just-right-amount of cheese. Less impressive were the canned mushrooms used on the toppings – though, I’d add,  I have eaten plenty of pizza in New York City that used them.

I ordered a two-meat pizza slice and it came out medium-warm, but it was obvious that the slice had begun life as a pepperoni pizza, and the crumbled sausage had been tossed on later.  So, the sausage wasn’t embedded into the cheese and seemed almost like an afterthought.  Surely there is a way to handle this differently.

Spinach Salad

We really liked the artichoke and caper pizza (these generally always come from cans and jars).   Julian’s specialty pizza, the Tutto (with everything on it) was good, though we should mention canned mushrooms again. By and large the flavors were good, and the fennel in the Italian sausage, especially, shone through.

Two salads were average but could easily be bumped up a notch. The spinach salad’s balsamic vinaigrette was well-balanced, but there was far too much of it. The tomatoes were limp and appeared to be a day old, while the bacon crumbles were soft rather than crisp. The Caesar needed a lot more oomph, which could be said of plenty of other salads these days. More anchovy and garlic, some Worcestershire sauce, crunchier croutons – all needed to punch up the flavors and and textures to make this salad worthy of its name. I did appreciate the generous amount of fresh greens on both salads.

Italian Sub Sandwich

There’s lotsa pasta on the menu, and I’ll go back to try it out. While I can’t report on its quality, I like Julian’s enough to have faith these dishes will be good, too.

The Italian sub sandwich soared above average, with a good Italian dressing and plenty of cold cuts, fresh lettuce and tomatoes.  I also applauded the nice effect of dusting the sandwich with Parmesan cheese (maybe this was an accident, but it sure worked) and the pickle.

While the sub was a fine sandwich indeed, the Chicago dog was only average.  No poppy-seed bun, and the bun was also gummy.  Not a nice thing to wrap around a foot-long Vienna Beef dog.  “Real” Chicago dogs have neon green relish (as my friend who ordered this dog told me) and the requisite sport peppers lacked heat.

Julian’s gets better-than-average marks from me, based on its pizza crust and sausage, the good, strong, house-brewed tea, the really good Italian sub and a warm, cozy atmosphere.  I just wish it was closer to my house.

Julian’s New York Style Pizza
13444 West Ave.
(210) 496-3500‎
Open daily for lunch and dinner
$-$$

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Celebrate the end of 2009 with a dinner out amongst other revelers.  There are plenty of great options around town for any budget.  Call soon; many places have limited seating.

Ácenar Mexican Restaurant, 146 E. Houston, $40 plus tax and gratuity
The restaurant will offer a chef-inspired, three-course Prix Fixe menu, including a complimentary glass of champagne.  For the first course, select Poblano Corn Bisque with Huitlacoche Relish and Queso Fresco or Fried Huitlacoche Quesadillas with Roasted Tomatillo and Avocado Salsa. Entrée options are: Braised Beef Short Ribs with Roasted Corn and Poblano Rice and Chipotle Arbol Barbecue Sauce; Chile Seared Mahi Mahi with Mushroom Blue Corn Tamale, Roasted Tomato Broth, and Yellow Tomato Salsa; Grilled 12 oz. Rib Eye with Two Bacon-wrapped Shrimp, Jalapeño Potatoes, and Fried Rajas and Onions. Dessert is your choice of Warm Chocolate Champurrado with Cajeta Churros or Apple Strudel with Strawberry Champagne Sorbet.  The regular menu will also be available.  For reservations, call (210) 222-2362.

Achiote River Cafe at Grand Hyatt Hotel, 600 E. Market St., $35 plus tax and gratuity
Start off with Pan Latino Mixed Salads featuring unique Composed Latin Salads and Signature Salad Bar. A carving station will offer Roasted Strip Loin of Beef served with traditional accompaniments. Buffet selections include Stewed Turkey with Tomatillo Sauce; Jamaica Jerked Pork Loin with Pineapple Salsa; Valencia Paella; Tomato Bisque; Sweet Plantains; and more. Included in the meal are assorted Aguas Frescas and Holiday Desserts by Chef Daniel.  For more information, call (210) 224-1234.  www.achioterivercafe.com

Aldaco’s, 100 E. Hoefgen (in Sunset Station), $44 plus tax and gratuity
Enjoy the fireworks from Sunset Station’s twinkling plaza. A four course dinner with wine and cocktail pairings is available; it includes an appetizer, soup or salad, choice of main course (Achiote Grilled Pork Chop, Pepita Encrusted Baked Salmon Filet, or Grilled Rib Eye Steak with Melting Green Peppercorn-cilantro Compound Butter), and dessert (Tres Leches or Flan en Tierra). Reservations include party favors, free parking and champagne toast at midnight; call (210) 222-0561.

Antlers Lodge at the Hyatt Regency Hill Country Resort and Spa, 9800 Hyatt Resort Dr, $75 plus tax and gratuity
Start with your choice of: Braised Venison Shank, Texas Quail, Chorizo Grits, Roasted Tomatillo Salsa; Shrimp & Crab Cocktail with Cilantro-Cabbage Slaw and Chipotle Salsa; Goat Cheese Chile Relleno with Oak Smoked Eggplant Puree, Chile Oil, and Micro Cilantro.  Antler’s Wedge Salad and Lobster Bisque will both be served.  For an entrée, select from the following: Prime New York Strip with Roasted Garlic-Herb Butter, Grilled Asparagus, and Horseradish Mashed Potatoes; Chilean Seabass with Chimichurri, Olive Polenta, and Roasted Tomato-Poblano Salsa; Bison Tenderloin with Amber Ale Sauce, Chipotle Smoked Corn, and Smashed Fingerlings; Wine Braised Free-range Chicken with Wild Mushrooms, Bacon, Cippolini Onion, and Herb Spatzle; Free Form Lasagna with Smoked Eggplant Puree, Organic Vegetables, Local Goat Cheese, Chimichurri, and Red Pepper Cream Sauce.  To  end the meal, try either “Coffee and Donuts”, espresso créme brulée, hazelnut foam, and warm beignets, or Pastry Chef’s Selections of Petit Fours Accompanied by a Strawberry Bellini.  For reservations, call (210) 520-4001 or see opentable.com.

Biga on the Banks, 203 S. St. Marys St., $65 for early seating, $100 for party including midnight toast, plus tax and gratuity
The early seating from 5:30 – 7 p.m. will include four courses.   The guests seated after 7:30 p.m. will enjoy a five course dinner with live music, party hats & horns and a champagne toast.  Sample entrées include: Miso Baked Wild Striped Bass; Seared Natural Sea Scallops with White Bean Pancetta and Crab Ragout; Pepper Seared Ahi Tuna, served rare; Rosemary Braised Veal Cheeks with Buttery Saffron Pappardelle Noodles; Smoke Roasted Whole Poussin or Boudin Stuffed Quail with Truffled Chanterelle Mushroom Risotto; Grilled Beef Tenderloin or Bone on Angus Ribeye; and Tomato Ginger-crusted Australian Lamb Rack.  For reservations, call (210) 225-0722.

Brasserie Pavil, 1818 North Loop 1604 W (at Huebner), prices vary
The restaurant will be open during its normal operating hours and will be serving its regular menu. There will be specials on selected wine and champagne.  For reservations, call (210) 479-5000.

Chama Gaucha, 18318 Sonterra Place
The Brazilian steakhouse restaurant will be open and celebrating the New Year at midnight.  Reservations recommended; call (210) 564-9400. www.chamagaucha.com

COCO Chocolate Lounge & Bistro, 18402 US 281 N, Suite 114, $75 per person plus $30 for wine pairings, plus tax and gratuity
Enjoy a Grand Tasting Menu and dancing to live band music.  The amuse bouché is Black Truffle Consommé.  Starters include your choice of Roasted Tomato and Crab Bisque; Mesquite Smoked Quail; and Scottish Smoked Salmon.  The palate cleanser is Trou Normand: Green Apple Sorbet with 25 year old Calvados.  Main dishes are your choice of Pan Roasted Grass-Fed Filet Mignon; Poularde (Fat Hen) with Creamy Morel Sauce; and Medallion of Wild Caught Coho Salmon.  Dessert choices are Duo of Opera Cakes; Créme Brulee; or Warm Nutella Tart.  Afterwards follows an assortment of Chocolate Truffles.  French champagne toast at midnight and party favors are included.  For reservations, call (210) 491-4480 or see their website.

Cool Cafe, Havana Hotel, 123 Auditorium Circle
Celebrate on the riverwalk in Roaring Twenties fashion with the regular menu and drink specials.  Dress to party like it is 1920.  No cover.  For more information, call (210) 224-2665.

Crumpet’s Restaurant & Bakery, 3920 Harry Wurzbach, prices vary
Prix Fixe meals are available at different pricing levels. On these menus, some of the appetizers are Mousse Truffle Paté and Nova Scotia Smoked Salmon with Cream Cheese. Soup choices are Cream of Mushroom and New England Clam Chowder. Some entrées choices are Fresh Rainbow Trout Almondine, Beef Wellington, and Wild-Caught Alaskan Salmon Fillet, Charbroiled with Lemon Butter and Capers. The “Trilogy” will be available: appetizer; soup; house salad; Lobster Tail with Garlic Butter; Rack of Lamb Provençal; Tenderloin of Beef Rossini; and Raspberry Crème Brulée.  For reservations, call (210) 821-5600.

Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar, 255 East Basse Rd. (in the Quarry), prices vary
Veuve Clicquot Brut Champagne Yellow Label NV will be available by the glass and specials will be on the menu: Wagyu Filet and Cold Water Lobster Tail ($75.95) and Maine Lobster and Seafood ($69.95).  The specials will be available through January 2.  For more information and reservations, call (210) 824-9463.

Fogo de Chão, 849 E. Commerce St.
Lunch & dinner will be available on both New Year’s Eve & New Year’s Day.  The Brazilian steakhouse offers unlimited servings of 15 cuts of delectable fire roasted meats that are brought tableside by gaucho chefs, as well as an extensive salad bar.  Lunch with meats is $24.50 for adults; salad bar only is $19.50.  Dinner with meats is $38.50 for adults; salad bar only is $19.50.  Children ages five and under eat for free and those ages six to ten eat for half-price.  For reservations, call (210) 227-1700.

Francesca’s at Sunset, The Westin La Cantera, 16641 La Cantera Parkway, prices vary
This evening, there are two seatings featuring innovative cuisine by Chef de Cuisine Erne Estrada: the first with menu favorites and the second with a special menu. Both seatings will feature the Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve and the next will feature Charles Heidsieck Champagne Charlie Cuvee, Brut, 1985. Live music by Almost Heaven Duo, harp and flute performing classical & holiday music. There will also be other activities and door prizes. For reservations, call (210) 558-2253.

Frederick’s Bistro & Frederick’s Restaurant, 14439 Northwest Military Drive, Suite 100 & 7701 Broadway, Suite 20
Say goodbye to 2009 with a French Fusion Dinner. There is an early seating available at the Bistro only from 5 – 7 p.m., priced at $45 per person. Afterwards, the meal is available at both locations for $75 per person. They will stay open after midnight to welcome the New Year.  First course options are: Beef Sirloin Carpaccio with Roasted Pepper Pesto; Stuffed Quail and Foie Gras Terrine Platter; Tuna and Salmon Tartare Spring Mixed with a Soy Vinaigrette Dressing; and Assorted Seafood Delicacy – Lobster, Crab, Shrimp Cocktail, Oysters on the Half-Shell with Caviar and Smoked Salmon.  The next course is String Bean Salad with Vinaigrette Dressing and Foie Gras.  Main course selections include: Pommegrate Glazed Duck Breast over a bed of Wild Rice Risotto; Beef Tournedo “Rossini” with European Foie Gras with Sauce Perigourdine and Truffle Mashed Potatoes; Sea Bass and Jumbo Lump Crab Meat Napoleon with Champagne Caviar Veloute and Fingerling Potatoes; and Grilled Main Lobster with Fresh Herbs, Sundried Tomatoes and Cognac Butter served on a nest of Spicy Linguini.  A special assortment of desserts will conclude the meal.  Reservations are suggested; call (210) 828-9050.

Godai Sushi Bar & Restaurant, 11203 West Ave.
If you are craving a bit of sushi or tempura on New Year’s Eve, they will be open from 5 – 10 p.m. Their wine list includes sparkling options such as 1999 Pierre Jouet “Fleur” Champagne and they also have beers and sake. For more information, call (210) 348-6781. www.godaisushi.com

Le Midi, 301 East Houston St., $90 plus tax and gratuity
Start off the meal with Half-Dozen Tatamagouche Oysters. The second course is Tomato Tartlet, Fine Herb Goat Cheese, Nicoise Olives, and Fresh Basil Leaf. The next course is Nutmeg Scented Cabbage Soup with American Caviar. The fourth course is your choice of the following: Squab Breast over Butternut Squash Puree, Chanterelles, and Caramelized Pears; Chilean Sea Bass over Green Pea Ravioli, Eggplant Chips, and Black Olive Crème Fraiche; Lamb Sirloin Steak, Tartiflette, Provencal Vegetables, and Thyme Jus; and Roasted Scallops, Fennel Puree, Lemon Zest Confit, Green Asparagus, and Smoked Tomato Coulis. The fifth course is Cheese Assortment with Camembert, Bleu, and Chavignol. The dessert is Prune Clafoutis with Cinnamon Whipped Cream. The dinner includes a Champagne toast.  For reservations, please call (210) 858-7388.

Liberty Bistro, 200 N. Seguin Ave, New Braunfels, $55 plus tax and gratuity
Enjoy a five course meal with live jazz, starting with Potato Soup with Smoked Salmon.  The next course is Black Eyed Pea Salad followed by Coq au Vin.   The fourth course is  Osso Bucco over Risotto.  Dessert is Chiffon Cake with Lemon Curd and Butter Cream.  For reservations, call (830) 624-7876.   www.mylibertybistro.com

The Lodge Restaurant of Castle Hills, 1746 Lockhill Selma, $100, $150 paired with wines, all plus tax and 20% gratuity
Begin the evening with an Amuse Bouche of Chef Jason Dady’s Winter Inspiration. The first course is your choice: Pan Seared Diver Sea Scallop with Yukon Gold Potato Mousseline, Preserved Lemon, Toasted Brioche and Red Sea Salt; Foie Gras Terrine “Holiday Style” with Butter Toasted Brioche; Slow Cooked Sweet Tomato with Saint Andre Grilled Cheese and Baby Arugula; or Braised Snake River Farms Pork Belly with Butterscotch Glaze, Pearl Onions, Chervil and “Butterfinger”. Second course options are: Roasted Butternut Squash Soup with House made Crème Fraiche and “Cinnamon Toast Crunch”; Local Mixed Field Greens with Goat Cheese, Tart Apples, Candied Pecans and Champagne Vinaigrette; Root Vegetables “Sous Vide”: Globe Carrots, Baby Red and Golden Beets, Shaved Radish and Toasted Pumpkin Seed Oil. The next course is Parsnip Agnolotti with Braised Oxtail and French Breakfast Radish. The fourth course is Maple Syrup Glazed Veal Sweetbreads, Brussels Sprouts-Pomegranate “Salad” and Macadamia Nuts. Choose from the following for the fifth course: Sous Vide of Rabbit Saddle with Globe Carrot, Wild Mushroom, Pearl Onion and Natural Jus; Pan Roasted Guinea Fowl with Belgium Endive, Purple Potato and White Asparagus; Pan Seared Salmon with Caramelized Cauliflower, Root Vegetables and Citron-Sultana Emulsion; Cast Iron Seared Beef Tenderloin with Truffled Yukon “Pave”, Baby White Turnips and Béarnaise Mousseline. Dessert choices are Dark Chocolate and Nutella Soufflé Cake with Walnut Crumble and Applewood Bacon-Salted Caramel Ice Cream; Deconstructed Almond Cheesecake with Candied Pear Jam, Sauternes Gelee and Pomegranate Gastrique; and “Banana Crème Pie” with Toasted Coconut Crème Anglaise.  For reservations, call (210) 349-8466.   www.thelodgerestaurant.com

The Melting Pot, 14855 Blanco Rd., $60 plus tax and 18% gratuity
Start with your cheese fondue choice: Smoked Salmon and Vodka; Swiss Cheese Fondue; Loaded Baked Potato; and Cheddar Cheese Fondue. A Salad Strawberry Almond Salad is next, followed by Fondue Feast: Twin Lobster Tails, Filet Mignon, Honey Orange Marinated Breast of Chicken, NY Strip Florentine, Shrimp Diablo, Spinach and Artichoke Ravioli and Sun Dried Tomato Ravioli, all accompanied with a variety of fresh vegetables, savory dipping sauces, and your choice of cooking style. Dessert is your choice of Caramel Nut Milk Chocolate Fondue or White Chocolate Apple Cobbler Fondue. Each couple will receive a Champagne Toast And a Melting Pot Gift Bag. Reservation with credit card guarantee are required; call (210) 479-6358.

Messina Hof, 4545 Old Reliance Road, Bryan, TX 77808, $285 per couple, $150 per person
Enjoy an ”A Night at the Oscars 2009″ with food, wines, live music, gaming, and dancing! Dress like you are walking down the red carpet for this special night. Appetizers include assorted Texas Cheeses featuring Veldhuizen Dairy, Wateroak Farms, and On Common Ground Dairy. The Antipasta Display will include Candied Bacon; Stuffed Monterey Mushroom Caps; Texas Gulf Shrimp; Roulade of Lucky B Bison; and more. Other selections include Nolan Ryan Beef Prime Rib Carving Station with a Cabernet Demi Glace; Lonestar Goat Cheese and Spinach Stuffed Chicken Breast with a Pinot Grigio Beurre Blanc; Stuffed Quail; and others. A large variety of desserts will conclude the meal. Wines will be from the vineyard. 9 p.m. to 12:30 a.m.   For more information or reservations, call (979) 778-9463 ext.234. www.messinahof.com

Restaurant Insignia, 401 S. Alamo, $85, $115 with matching wine pairings, all plus tax and gratuity
For the first course, select either Creamy Lobster Bisque with Black Pepper Mascarpone or Beef TarTare x 3. The second course is “Greek Salad”. Next, choose either Pan Seared Crab Cake with Thai Red Curry, Avocado and Red Pepper-Fennel “Slaw” or Pan Roasted Foie Gras with Blueberry Pancakes and Vanilla Infused Local Honey. The fourth course is “Lobster Enchilada”, followed by your choice of Cast Iron Fried Chicken with Piloncillo Waffles and Maple Gravy; Pan Seared Black Bass with Fingerling Potato, Picholine Olives and Green Peppercorn Jus; or Beef Tenderloin with Yukon Gold Confit, Caramelized Onions and Shiner Bock “Bordelaise”. Dessert selections are Dark Chocolate Nutella Souffle Cake with Blackberry Jam and Blood Orange-Chocolate Mousse or Deconstructed “Tres Leches” Cheesecake.  For reservations, call (210) 223-0401.  www.restaurantinsignia.com

Rosario’s Mexican Cafe y Cantina, 910 S. Alamo, prices vary
The regular dinner menu will be available and there will be no cover.  No reservations will be taken; it is “first come, first served.”  There will be live music by Vivir Trio Unplugged from 8 – 11 p.m.  Afterwards, the t.v.’s will be tuned to the downtown San Antonio celebration.

Soleil Bistro & Wine Bar, 14415 Blanco Rd., $60 dinner, $90 dinner and Champagne Midnight Toast Party, all plus tax and gratuity
To start, select either Duo of Salmon (House Cured Salmon and Smoke Salmon Terrine with Caviar) or Seared House Made Foie Gras with Apricot Chutney over Brioche. The salad is Butter Lettuce with Fresh Tarragon. Entrées include Poached Lobster Tail with Truffle Orchiette Mac & Cheese; Seared Chilean Sea bass with Saffron Israeli Couscous and Sun Dried Tomato Butter; Seared Duck Breast with Foie Gras Risotto and Apricot Sauce; and Wild Boar Osso Buco with Petit Legumes in a Sage Demi Glaze. Mint Lime Granite will be served to cleanse your palate. Desserts include Strawberry Foster Napoleon and Profiteroles Maison. The Champagne Midnight Tast Party includes free drinks after 10:30 p.m. and music until 2 a.m. An early bird four course dinner is available. Reservation are required; please call Jean-Francois at (210) 408-2670.

Tre Trattoria, 4003 Broadway, $55, $80 with matched wine pairings, plus tax and gratuity
Start your meal with Chef Jason Dady’s Antipasti Inspirations. The second course is your choice of the following: Quail “Saltimbocca” with White Polenta and Natural Jus; Creamy Crab and Roasted Garlic Soup with “Gremelota”; and Slow Oven Roasted Caprese Salad with Basil Oil and House pulled Mozzarella. For the next course, select Pan Roasted Gnocchi with Duck Confit, Bosc Pear, Blue Cheese Crema and Tarragon “Pesto”; Lobster Ravioli with Lemon, Pinenut, Spicy Bushel Basil and Toasted Breadcrumbs ($15 supplement); or House made Spaghetti with San Marzano Tomato-Vodka Sauce. The fourth course is one of the following: Seared Ahi Tuna with Zucchini, Sultana, “Salsa Verde” and Lemon Aioli; Classic Osso Buco; or Tuscan Marinated Ribeye ($10 Supplement). For dessert, select Nutella x 3 or Roasted Apple Galette with Cinnamon Ice Cream and Candied Pecans.  For more information & reservations, call (210) 805-0333.

Watermark Grill, 18740 Stone Oak Pkwy, prices vary
The restaurant’s regular menu will be available, which includes raw bar, seafood options, and steaks.  For reservations, call (210) 483-7600.