Shiso with sashimi at Godai Sushi Bar.

Have you ever had a shiso leaf in a sashimi salad and wondered exactly what it was? Well, Shiso leaves, also known as perilla, grow in a number of Asian cultures, and their uses are myriad within the regional cuisines there because of its pungent aroma and bold flavors. It’s not surprising that there are various types of leaves within the family, each slightly different and unique.

Shiso leaves growing in front of Godai Sushi Bar.

The Korean version is called either deulkkae or tŭlkkae, which means “wild sesame” or “sesame leaf,” even though it has no relation to sesame whatsoever, according to Wikipedia.

This leaf grows in spring and summer, and you can find it planted in a herb bed in front of Godai Sushi Bar, 11203 West Ave.

Owner and sushi master William “Goro” Pitchford takes one of the just-picked large leaves and sits its bottom half in tempura batter before deep-frying it. Then he arranges a little bite of sashimi and some roe on top of each, creating a special treat that is as fresh as it gets. The shiso has a slight mint quality and freshness that is perfect for the seafood. The array of leaves on the platter is also a real eye-catcher.

So, go to Godai while the shiso leaves last and enjoy this one-of-a-kind treat.

For more information on Godai, click here.

Azro’s Bastilla with a salad.

When I arrived in San Antonio 14 years ago, the thought of not one, but two Moroccan restaurants in the city was wishful thinking at best. Yet with the arrival of Azro Moroccan and Mediterranean Bistro on Northwest Military Highway, we have two fine places where we can enjoy this savory cuisine from the north of Africa. (The other is Moroccan Bites on Evers Road.)

The Moroccan Mixed Salad

The first thing I noticed when I entered Azro for the first time was how cool and inviting the ambience of the dining room is. It is painted in vibrant colors that diffuse the light, so it feels more intimate and relaxed. The space has housed numerous restaurants over the years, from the sandwich shop Swede’s to the Mexican Huaraches, but never has any of its inhabitants felt quite so much at home.

The attentive waitstaff reinforced that feeling on a number of visits, answering questions as much as they could on the menu. On my first two visits, I had limited time, so I choose several options from the appetizer and salad sections of the menu that wouldn’t take much time. Every salad option is worth investigating because of the freshness of the ingredients used. That includes the Shepherd’s Salad with plenty of cucumbers, red onions and tomato in a lively vinaigrette; the related Mediterranean Salad with is punched up with more greens, such as arugula; and the generous Moroccan salad sampler, heaped high with a great white bean salad, pickled beets, a tangy carrot salad, cheese and a potato salad.

Harira Soup.

Felafel, fried patties made of garbanzo beans, is a traditional Mediterranean dish, but the recipe can vary from region to region. I don’t know which region Azro’s version comes from, but the menu says that it is seasoned with Moroccan spices, so that might be a clue. I can also say that on the two occasions in which I enjoyed the patties, they were dense and crunchy on the outside and moist inside. A drizzle of something resembling tahini, with an almost spackle-like texture, did not win over a friend of mine, but I liked the contrast.

Best of all was a bowl of harira soup, a Moroccan favorite that combines garbanzo beans, tomato and lentils with the brightness of a touch of olive oil. It a way, it was reminiscent of the Turkish soup mercimek.

Among the entrees, the Seafood Bastilla, also known to some as pastilla, caught my eye with its promise of salmon and shrimp in phyllo dough and served with a lemon cream pastry. The phyllo on top was flaky and crisp, crackling as it broke apart to reveal the beautifully prepared seafood inside. A lively salad, topped with a triangle of cheese, was so large that it threatened to dominate the plate, but it provided just the right contrast, its acidic dressing cutting through the cream sauce while its crunch complemented the silky nature of the salmon. It also had a hominess to it that made you feel as if an old friend were in the kitchen cooking just for you.

Couscous with Chicken

No discussion of Moroccan food is complete without mentioning couscous, the country’s unofficial dish. It can exert a mysterious hold, when it is made properly. I can remember it being the centerpiece of a banquet in Tangier about 15 years ago, and we dove in to the communal dish with our hands, which has long been the custom of the country. The pearls of pasta were loaded with a rich, buttery flavor and yet they managed to be light as a feather. We picked up most every piece on the plate.

The version at Azro was not that inspired, but it wasn’t bad, either. It had scant taste of butter. Instead, it picked up the flavors of the foods that had been arranged on top of it in a tagine. So, it tasted of the juices of zucchini and butter as well as some grilled chicken kebab and chopped parsley, all of which went well with a glass of Moroccan Sauvignon Blanc. These items were not cooked together, mind you. But the tagine, with its conical lid, makes for such a dramatic presentation that you can understand why it’s being used that way.

Lemon Chicken Tagine

What a pair of nearby customers did have trouble understanding is how the restaurant could be out of eggplant on the evening they were there. That should tell you how good the vegetable  in both the restaurant’s baba ghanoush, brightened with garlic, and the Mosaka. If you were thinking that the latter would be like the Greek moussaka, you might be in for some surprise. Instead of being a variation on lasagna slathered with a béchamel sauce, Azro’s version, sampled on another visit, featured the roasted vegetable stuffed with seasoned ground beef and offered pure comfort. Too much cardamom made the beryani rice on the side less than welcome, however.

If you order the Lemon Chicken Tagine, don’t expect a dish with some Day-Glo sauce that’s sweeter than sweet. Instead, expect something savory, enlivened by tart preserved lemons. The chicken is also mixed with potatoes, green olives and garlic. On one visit, this could not hardly have been better, with the briny nature of the olives and plenty of lemon infusing the dish. On another, the lemons were in short supply, and the chicken tasted reheated. The differences suggest that Azro needs to work some on its consistency.

Bread comes with dipping oil.

One dish that does not need work is the baklava, made with a light syrup and plenty of crushed pistachios sandwiched between buttered phyllo dough. Each order comes with two pieces, which we didn’t realize when we ordered two helpings. So, when the four squares appeared, we thought it was too much. After one taste, however, no one was complaining. It was enough to make us talk of returning.

Azro Moroccan and Mediterranean Bistro
2211 N.W. Military Hwy.
(210) 342-0011
www.azro-bistro.com
Lunch and dinner: Monday-Saturday

The Palm has new lunch options.

The Veranda, a special events center, is opening this spring in the castle of Castle Hills, the space that used to house Jason Dady’s the Lodge.

A sign in front of the space, 1746 Lockhill Selma, promises to be open this spring, though a date is not mentioned.

The Veranda’s website doesn’t offer much more information, except to say that it can be used for weddings as well as corporate and social events. Contact the Veranda at either (210) 366-1220 or at sales@theverandasa.com.

The Granary serves some Ideas in Food

The Granary ŒCue & Brew at the Pearl Brewery, 602 Avenue A., is having its first Collaborative Chef Dinner and Workshop this Monday and Tuesday, featuring chef Alex Talbot of Ideas in Food.

Talbot, who’s part o the Ideas in Food workshop in Pennsylvania, will be leading an all day, hands-on, workshop on Monday to help San Antonio food service professionals expand and develop their cooking skills. The subject of this industry-specific workshop will be Making Tastier Food: The Role of Science, Technology and Creativity.

Then, on Tuesday, Talbot and the Granary crew will put that information to good use in creating a six-course tasting menu that will be offer that night in lieu of the normal dinner menu. The final menu will showcase elements of smoke and live fire and will include a beer pairing option. At the event, attendees can purchase a signed copy of Talbot’s book, “Ideas in Food: Great Recipes and Why They Work.”

The dinner is priced at $70 a person plus alcohol and is limited to 70 people. The Monday workshop is limited to five. For more information or reservations, call (210) 228-0124 or email thegranarysa@gmail.com.

EZ’s says sí to Síclovía

Every Tuesday from now through through June 26, all San Antonio EZ’s locations will be supporting Síclovía by donating 10 percent of pre-tax proceeds through the restaurant’s receipt drop program.

At the counter area at each EZ’s location in San Antonio, guests will see a specially designed box in which they can drop receipts after they pick up their order. From the tally of these receipts, EZ’s will make a monthly cash donation to the YMCA.

“This is the second year that EZ’s has supported us,” said Sandy Morander, President and CEO of the YMCA Greater San Antonio. “We are so appreciative of their continued support and Suzy Monford’s involvement in our program.”

Monford, president and CEO of EZ’s Brick Oven & Grill, serves on the YMCA’s board of directors and is also an active member of the Mayor’s Fitness Council.

Síclovía is a partnership between the YMCA of Greater San Antonio and the City of San Antonio to create a safe place to walk, bike, jog and do other outdoor activities.

Bin 555

Brunch and oysters at Bin 555

Bin 555 at the Alley, 555 W. Bitters Road, is now serving Sunday brunch from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

In addition to a menu of brunch favorites, you can get a carafe of mimosas for $10 as well as a sriracha and bacon Bloody Mary to open your eyes.

On Tuesdays, Bin 555 is having a party in the beer garden featuring oysters for $1 apiece as well as an appearance from the DUK Truck. The oysters are served starting at 5 p.m. and you’d better hurry because they disappear quickly, from what I’m told.

For information, call (210) 496-0555.

Lunch at the Palm on your time

The Palm, 233 E. Houston St., has a new lunch menu designed for those who operating on a tight schedule. The promise is that you can get in and out of the restaurant in under an hour and still enjoy the likes of Grilled Cloak & Dagger Sandwich, Chicken & Avocado Sandwich, Nova Scotia Lobster BLT, Filet Mignon Medallions, Blackened Prime New York Steak Chop-Chop Salad, or a soup, salad and half sandwich combination.

The Palm still offers its Power Lunch menu for $25.90, which includes three courses, starting with soup or salad, followed by the likes of Chicken Parmigiana, Atlantic Salmon Fillet, Filet Mignon Medallions and the chef’s fish of the day. A side dish is included, as is dessert.

Living in a “Mad Men” world? There’s also the 1-Martini Lunch Club, which includes a premium martini or wine by the glass for $8.37. (Despite the name, no membership is necessary.)

Call (210) 226-7356.

Bolo’s is adding Sunday brunch.

Looking for a place to have a Sunday brunch featuring items such as roast prime rib, shucked oysters and bananas foster? Then you’ll want to head to Bolo’s at the Omni Colonnade, 9821 Colonnade Blvd.

Beginning April 7, Bolo’s Restaurant in the Omni San Antonio Hotel at the Colonnade will be serving Sunday brunch from 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

Chef action stations featuring the likes of prime rib, composed salads made to order, crab claws and cherries jubilee will change regularly. Additional stations include local Texas and Latin appeal along with domestic and imported cheeses, seasonal sliced fruits and berries, omelets, blueberry sage sausages and Applewood smoked bacon with Belgian waffles and pancakes made to order.

In addition to Bolo’s menu, each guest 21 years of age and older can get mimosas, which are included with the price of the meal.

Brunch is priced at $30 for adults and $14 for children ages 5-12. Children under 5 are free.

For reservations, call (210) 699-5803.

Piranha Killer Sushi, 260 E. Basse Road, is hosting its first sake tasting from 5 to 8 p.m. April 9.

This is the first of a planned series designed to educated people about the joys of the Japanese liquor made from rice and the foods that complement it. So, the tastings will let you learn the fundamentals of sake and then how you can take that and match it with sushi.

Or, as the press release for the event says, “Don’t amble in the dark, blindly choosing a sake with a forced confidence; learn about sake, and match your wine connoisseur tête‐à-­tête with your samurai‐like sushi/sake insight.”

The cost is $25 a person, which includes five different sakes paired with a small tasting to match the flavor. Visit https://www.facebook.com/piranhasushi for more details.

Pork Dumplings at Tang St.

There’s a stack of take-out menus on the counter next to the door of Tang St. Chinese Resaturant, a new place on San Pedro Avenue, just south of Thousand Oaks. On the front is the motto worth repeating: “Food is the paramount necessity of people, taste is the priority of eating.”

Inside the menu you’ll find plenty to feast on, a large variety of Chinese-American favorites, from egg drop soup and sweet-sour shrimp to lemon chicken and chop suey. But don’t settle for the expected. If you want to make taste the priority of your dining at Tang St., then ask your server for the authentic Chinese menu and indulge in some exceptionally good flavors.

Many of the dishes on this menu may sound familiar, but you’ll soon discover you’re not treading on common ground. The sweet-sour ribs, for example, are not swamped in some DayGlo sauce with pineapple chunks and carrot slices suspended in the goo. In fact, you shouldn’t really expect a sauce at all. The large nuggets of pork were rubbed with seasoned flour before being tossed in the wok with a little oil, so the flavors of sugar, ginger, and spice are all in the coating on the meat, which could include bones. A few fresh vegetables added crunch and color.

More traditional were the pork dumplings, held together with a diaphanous layer of dough from the bottom of the pan. It was pure comfort food and did its best to prepare us for what was to come.

That included Spicy Duck with Beer, served over a flaming pot. Cubes of duck, bones and all, were floating in a lightly hoppy broth that showcased both beer and spices as well as the rich flavor of the meat. In the end, this was perhaps my favorite dish, because I was so pleasantly surprised at how well the wheat and citrus qualities of the beer worked with the dish.

Spicy Duck with Beer

The sound of scrambled eggs with tomatoes intrigued all of us at the table, and we were glad to dig in to the combination. But this was a dish that we ended up respecting more than loving, largely because sugar has been added to it — and that’s not a surprise either Bonnie or I appreciate in savory dishes, especially egg dishes. Sugar, in even the smallest quantity, can throw off a wine, and it’s often unnecessary. A little bit of research shows that the sugar is traditionally included when the dish is served in parts of China, but I would probably leave it out when I try to recreate it at home.

When we asked our helpful waitress what the two specials of the day were, she left us to translate the Chinese characters on her phone. She had told us the first was a hot pot with pork blood and a host of other ingredients in it while the second included fried pork balls.

Neither captured our fancy, but we did order the Pork Intestines with Pickled Cabbage. That’s right, a Chinese version of sauerkraut with soft intestines all swimming together. I loved the texture of this dish, though the aroma of it is decidedly pungent and may prove off-putting to some.

We couldn’t stop there, so we also had tender strips of beef stirred into a spicy pepper blend. And, yes, our table of three couldn’t hold all we had ordered, but we didn’t care. We were too busy enjoying all of the tastes coming from the kitchen.

There are a couple of strikes against Tang St. and neither has to do with the restaurant itself. One is the road work along the 281 access road, which makes it fairly unpleasant to drive to. The other is that it is housed in a space that was once occupied by a deplorable Chinese restaurant, and the ghosts of that wretched place seem to linger in the parking lot.

Spicy beef with peppers

The first view of the interior doesn’t help much, either, as the place is minimally decorated and seems somewhat dingy. Yet the more we sat at the table, the more Bonnie and I wanted the massive Chinese print that covers the far wall. (It would look better in my house than hers. I know that for a fact.)

You can bring your own wine or beer to Tang St. We brought in a sampling of a German Riesling, a California Pinot Noir and a Rhone blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, each of which went well with the occasionally spicy, complex flavors (though only the Riesling liked the sweet eggs).

Tang St. is still fairly new, and it is still finding its audience. There is talk of cutting back some of the authentic Chinese dishes, but this would be a shame. You may want to get over there in the next couple of weeks and let the folks at Tang St. know that while we like our Twice Cooked Pork and General Tso’s Chicken, we really appreciate the chance to have something special.

Tang St. Chinese Restaurant
16111 San Pedro Ave. #116
(210) 490-1788
Lunch/dinner: Daily

Crawdads at Dry Dock.

They’ve got a number of names — crawfish, crayfish, crawdads, lobsters, mudbugs and yabbies, to list a few of the more common. But delicious is the word that most comes to mind.

That and the fact that they’re in season right now.

San Antonio seems to have developed crawfish fever this spring, and you can find them at a number of places around town, especially at eateries that specialize in Cajun food.

Luke, 125 E. Houston St., is featuring a crawfish boil every Friday this month with the crustaceans going for $5 a pound.

Dry Dock Oyster Bar, 8522 Fredericksburg Road, has the little beauties boiled in Cajun spice for $5.75 a pound. The plate comes with drawn butter and a new potato.

Acadiana Cafe, 1289 S.W. Loop 410, not only has them boiled and served by the pound, but you can also get fried crawfish tails

Where Y’At at the Alamo Street Eat Bar, 609 S. Alamo St., has a crawfish boil on Tuesdays through the beginning of June or as long as they’re good, owner Pieter Sypesteyn says.

Fat Bellies Cajun Food Truck from Boerne, which often stops at the Point Parks and Eats on Boerne Stage Road, has been having boils with corn and potatoes since the season began. Call (210) 410-7886 for details.

If you want to have your own boil at home, you can find live crawfish — and they must be live — at Groomer”s Seafood, 9801 McCullough Ave., on Fridays and at select H-E-B’s.

To plan your own crawfish boil, click here for a recipe and advice.

If you know of any other place that offers crawfish, email griffin@savorsa.com with the details.

Green Vegetarian moves Sunday

Green Vegetarian Cuisine opens in its new home at the Pearl Brewery Sunday.

The city’s first 100 percent kosher vegetarian restaurant has moved from 1017 N. Flores St. Its second location is open at 10003 N.W. Military Hwy.

“We are really excited about our new venture at the Pearl,” owner Mike Behrend says. “As you know, I have always had big dreams for Green.”

And that dream has him facing “a much larger space,” he says, where “we will be able to serve hundreds more meals each day.”

Green’s extensive menu includes dishes such as chicken-fried steak made with wheat meat, neatloaf and portabella steak as well as fried pickles, fried mushrooms, nachos, salads, burgers, quesadillas, enchiladas, stir-fries and sandwiches. New at the Pearl will be French press coffee.

According to a press release, “Green strives to be a sustainable restaurant with re-purposed restaurant equipment, the use of biodegradable packaging when possible, recycling, use of fair trade organic coffee, free range eggs and the use of their self-grown vegetables in many of their dishes.”

Green offers breakfast, lunch and dinner from 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; and 7 a.m.-8 p.m. Friday. It is closed Saturday.

Pyles raises a Toast to Texas

Stephan Pyles

Celebrity chef Stephan Pyles will be in town on March 6 for a dinner at Sustenio in the Eilan Hotel, 17101 La Cantera Parkway. The theme is a Toast to Texas and will feature four courses served family style.

The meal will begin with spirits from two local distilleries, Rebecca Creek and Cinco Vodka, while the meal will be paired with Texan wines.

The evening is also an introduction of Sustenio’s new executive chef, Mike Spalla.

The price is $85 a person plus tax and tip. Dinner begins at 7 p.m. For reservations, call (210) 598-2950.

Corner Bakery adds turkey panini

Turkey Monterey Panini with Lemon Chicken Orzo Soup

The Corner Bakery Cafe, at 255 E. Basse Road and 18720 Stone Oak Parkway, has added the Turkey Monterey Panini with smoked turkey, fresh spinach and provolone cheese on sourdough bread with a homemade artichoke asiago spread.

Also new is a Lemon Chicken Orzo Soup, made with chicken, red and yellow peppers, carrots, celery, onions, tomatoes and orzo pasta simmered in a creamy broth with a hint of lemon.

“We have combined bold flavors in layers of fresh ingredients to craft an unexpected, delicious new panini,” said Chris Pheiffer, San Antonio Corner Bakery Cafe franchise owner. “The Turkey Monterey Panini is perfect for guests who love our panini offerings but want to shake up their routine.”

A soup and half of the panini is available for $7.99.

The Point celebrates 1st birthday

Denise Aquirre owns and operates the Point Park and Eats on Boerne Stage Road with Noel Cisneros.

The Point Park and Eats, 21488 Boerne Stage Road, is celebrating its first birthday March 15-17 with three days of activities and food trucks.

On March 15, Branchline Brewery will pour their brews, Sol Surfers will perform and the food truck lineup includes Skinny Cat, MARS Mobile Kitchen, Say.She.Ate, Pork U and Lagniappe Today.

D.J. J.J. Lopez will be spinning discs on March 16 while the lineup includes Skinny Cat, MARS, Crepe Nation, Texasada, Fat Bellies and Kitchen Fusionz, the latter of which is also celebrating its first year of business.

Jonathan Alexander will perform on March 17 while the lineup features Kitchen Fusionz, Pork U, Skinny Cat, So Frito and Fork It.

Drink specials will also be available throughout the weekend. For more information, visit www.ParkAtThePoint.com.

Three words to remember: Filet and lobster

Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse, 255 E. Basse Road, is offering an off-the-menu special through April 7.

For $37.95, you can order a filet mignon and North Atlantic lobster tail, a starter and a side dish.

The only catch is that the special is not on the menu. You have to remember to ask for it.

The Hofbrau at the Rim opens

The Quarry Hofbrau at the Rim, 18403 I-10 W., has opened.

Hours are 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Monday-Tuesday; 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Wednesday-Saturday; and 11 a.m.-midnight Sunday. Call (210) 877-1500.

Coming soon

• The French restaurant Saveurs 209, 209 Broadway, will be open any day now. Call (210) 639-3165 or click here.
• Salaam International Food Market, 3727 Colony Drive, will open a restaurant in the near future at the back of the store, which features Middle Eastern groceries.
• Blanco BBQ is opening at 13259 Blanco Road, which has been the home of several previous restaurants, including Matisse.

If you have restaurant news, email griffin@savorsa.com or walker@savorsa.com.

Chris Cook

San Antonio fans of Food Network’s “Chef Wanted with Anne Burrell” might recognize a familiar face or two — besides the shock-haired host, that is — this Thursday night when a new episode airs.

Chris Cook from Oro in the Emily Morgan Hotel, 705 E. Houston St., will be seen competing against three other chefs on the cooking challenge show. The theme for the episode is “Texas Sized Operation” and was filmed last October at Austin’s Abel’s on the Lake.

This is the first national TV exposure for the chef, who has otherwise only demonstrated his culinary skills on a few local shows.

It wasn’t his first choice of shows. “I tried out for ‘Hell’s Kitchen,’ ” he says, referring to Gordon Ramsey’s show. But he didn’t make the cut.

So, when he saw a random advertisement on craigslist.org for chefs to appear on an unnamed TV show, he decided to give it a try. But he did have one prerequisite before he would agree to appear: “I wanted a real-deal challenge. I didn’t want anything staged — and I made sure of that from the very beginning.”

The show turned out to be “Chef Wanted,” and it fit the bill. Except for a few promo shots at the beginning, the filming was entirely part of the competition, Cook says.

That doesn’t mean it was easy work. “It’s not too fun having a camera constantly in your face,” he says, explaining that if the cameramen missed a shot, they would need to get something they could use, all while the clock is ticking and Burrell is waiting.

The need for footage is paramount. It is television, after all. “You have to make the time to get it done,” he says.

That meant three long days of filming, but the self-effacing chef didn’t seem to mind: “I’m not a stranger to hard work.”

Cook hasn’t seen the episode yet, but he says he felt comfortable in front of the camera. “I didn’t hold anything back,” he says. “What you see is who I actually am.”

He can’t mention any of the details of the show, even to disclose what the competition consists of, “unless you have $100,000 to give me,” he says, referring to the confidentiality agreement he signed as part of his appearance.

But a listing on Food Network’s website offers this description: “Chef Anne Burrell brings in four candidates for the executive chef job at Abel’s on the Lake, a 10,000 square foot restaurant in Austin, Texas. The chefs are tested of their use of local ingredients, as well as their ability to handle quantity and consistency. The final two chefs will not only handle dinner service, but also a special party in the restaurant’s event space: One chef must re-work an entire dish at the last minute, while the other must overcome poor communication with the staff.”

Cook also didn’t identify the other chefs competing against him, though he did say that one of the three was also from San Antonio, while the other two were from Austin and Los Angeles.

What does the chef hope to gain from appearing on the show?

“I want to put my hotel back on the map,” he says. He has worked for the last two years, trying to rebuild Oro’s kitchen, its staff and its reputation. A renovation and a recent rebranding of the Emily Morgan as a Doubletree Hotel will also help.

“I wear a lot of hats,” he says of his job as executive chef. Marketing, hiring, firing and working on issues from cleanliness to consistency have all been a part of the picture.

He’s started to see his numbers grow, as word has begun to spread about everything from his roast chicken to his tea program. If history is any indication, they should only continue to climb thanks to his appearance on “Chef Wanted.”  Other local restaurants featured on Food Network or cooking shows, from “Top Chef” to “Man vs. Food,” can testify how even the shortest feature can increase business.

Cook will likely take off work a little early Thursday so he can go home to watch the episode with his wife, Christabel, and their 3-year-old daughter, Copper.

Cooper might not quite understand what appearing on national TV means for her father, but she does know that “I cook for a living,” he says.

“Chef Wanted with Anne Burrell: Texas Sized Operation” will premiere Thursday at 9 p.m. CT on Food Network. It will repeat at midnight. A third airing is set for 10 p.m. March 3. Click here for more information. 

Jesse Perez has opened Arcade Midtown Kitchen at the Pearl.

Jesse Perez has brought a touch of comfort food the Pearl Brewery, 312 Pearl Parkway. His Arcade Midtown Kitchen opened this week.

Pork Belly Ragu with Ricotta

At a preview party on Tuesday evening, Perez, once named best Latin chef in the country, served a host of local celebrities, including Mayor Julián Castro and fellow chefs Bruce Auden, John Brand and Jason Dady, as well as friends and family.

Dishes included several of his signature creations, including lobster soft tacos served with a poblano cream on top. P.E.I. mussels with chorizo in an orange-habanero broth, pork belly ragú with ricotta, and chile and lime calamari were among the other snacks offered that can be found on the menu. Others include P&B Meatballs (pork and beef, of course), Grilled Octopus and Arugula Salad, and Salt & Pepper Beets with Goat Cheese.

P.E.I. Mussels with Chorizo

A flatbread topped with shrimp and pineapple was followed by slices of filet with garlic spinach as well as spiced lamb chops with lemon sweet potatoes and pasilla fig mole. Other entrees include Lemon & Pepper Peeler Farm’s Chicken, Ancho Chile Glazed Salmon with rock shrimp hash, a 12-ounce, house-aged rib-eye and Wild Mushroom Linguine.

Also featured were several of Arcade’s signature cocktails, including the Boulevardier, a Negroni variation made with bourbon.

Much of the decor reflects its historical part of the Pearl location with chandeliers made from old beer crates and door handles from made from salvaged pieces.

Dessert pastry features banana cream and cajeta.

Another feature of the restaurant is the Zoltan Fortune Teller that stands near the restrooms. It does tell fortunes for 50 cents, and the proceeds raised will benefit a local charity.

Perez, a San Antonio native, has headed up the kitchen at Francesca’s at Sunset among other restaurants around town. He has also worked in Los Angeles and Atlanta before returning home. He recently shared a love letter for his hometown on The Huffington Post.

For more information on Arcade Midtown Kitchen, click here or call (210) 369-9664.

Photos from Phillip Kent and John Griffin.

Jesse Perez runs the open kitchen at Arcade Midtown Kitchen.