Portrait of Viola Barrios at Viola’s Ventanas.

The Barrios family’s new restaurant on Westover Hills Boulevard, Viola’s Ventanas, came to life with a series of soft openings this week.

While the grand opening is today, May 18, servers and cooks raced through their practice paces as finishing touches were laid on the building, the patio under the shade of old live oaks and a play area for children, called “the Park.”

Viola’s Ventanas is the Barrios family’s third restaurant and it’s named in memory of their mother, Viola Barrios, who died five years ago.

As the restaurant was presented to gathered guests at a preview Friday evening, it was also blessed with prayer. Not only were Viola Barrios’ children and grandchildren present, many said they felt Viola’s spirit there with them as well. This restaurant, the family says, is Viola’s, but also a restaurant for all moms, kids and families.

Her portrait holds a place of honor on a wall, where her kind face can look over and approve of those who are enjoying their food. Outside, stones in the fountain express what her son Louis Barrios called her “mantra”: They are inscribed with the Spanish words amor, fe and alegria, or love, faith and joy.

Her daughters, Diana Barrios-Treviño and Dr. Teresa Barrios-Ogden, along with their children, listened as Louis Barrios talked about not only her great love for them, but also her courage in the face of what seemed like overwhelming adversity when their father died.

In 1975, Jose Barrios was 46 and the sole support of the family when he was killed in an automobile accident caused by a drunken driver.

“We went from upper middle class to lower middle class in a day,” Louis Barrios recalled. As the family mourned their loss, Viola dealt with the realities that come with the death of a spouse; and she formulated a plan, as she alone would have to support her family now.

View into bar area from dining room at Viola’s Ventanas.

She decided to open a restaurant. This she did with an investment of $3,000, with cast-off dishes and silverware, in an old boat garage in near Avenue B and Jones Street. It didn’t even have parking, as Barrios recalled.

What Viola Barrios did have, in addition to compelling necessity and prodigious cooking skills, were faith, joy and love.

On a quick kitchen tour at Viola’s Ventanas, Diana Barrios-Treviño and her husband, Roland Treviño, pointed out the long counters and equipment, gleaming stainless steel, ice bins, pan racks and much more.

Roland Treviño purchased this equipment, which looked nearly new, for a fraction of what it would have cost from the the former Brasserie Pavil. If some of the lighting fixtures in the dining room look familiar, those came from the now-defunct restaurant as well. Viola, one knows, would have looked quite approvingly this prudent purchase.

An even closer connection to Viola is a modest work table that sits toward the back part of the restaurant. Treviño dug this table out of storage where his mother-in-law had put it years ago, saying at the time, “I’ll want to use it someday.” After removing a metal rack attached to the table, replacing the deteriorated wood work surface, painting the metal pipe legs and replacing old casters with snappy new red ones, he put it in place in the kitchen.

When he brought his wife to see it, the two of them ended up in tears. And they were pretty sure Viola’s spirit was with them then, too.

Before dinner, restaurant guests were invited to go outside for the dedication. City councilmen Diego Bernal, Ray Lopez and W. Reed Williams as well as Texas Secretary of State John Steen offered their words of congratulation as did friends who helped with securing the property, Charles “Marty” and Rene Wender. Father Saturnino Lago from the Oblate School of Theology said a blessing.

Barrios family and city councilman Ray Lopez at dedication of Viola’s Ventanas.

Diana Barrios-Treviño also presented the third recipient of a scholarship from Viola’s Huge Heart Foundation, which will pay for four years of school at the Antonian High School. The young woman to receive this scholarship, Daniella Cisneros, was so grateful she also teared up as the presentation drew to a close.

Viola, as charitable with others as she was with her family, would have been proud of Daniella as well, said Barrios-Treviño. “She is a beautiful example of another little Viola.”

And then, dinner was served.

Viola’s Ventanas opens Saturday, May 18, at 11 a.m. It is at 9660 Westover Hills Blvd. between Highway 151 and Culebra Road.

Louis Barrios (left), Diana Barrios-Trevino (second from right) and Dr. Teresa Barrios-Ogden (right), presented Daniella Cisneros (second from left) with a scholarship from Viola’s Huge Heart Foundation.

Roland Trevino and Diana Barrios-Trevino at Viola’s Ventanas.

Fresh eggs from the farm.

The Pearl, San Antonio’s growing culinary town center, has hosted a successful producers-only farmers market since 2009. On Saturday, it’s time to recognize the achievement from 9 a.m. – 1 p.m. There will be live music, treats, the usual array of produce and specialty items and complimentary tastings from San Antonio chefs.

“The Pearl Farmers Market has connected the community through working with farms in a 150 mile radius of San Antonio, raising awareness of seasonal eating and bringing people together through the celebration of local food,” the Pearl said in an announcement.

“Over the past four years Pearl Farmers Market has connected thousands of people to their local farmers and food producers from around San Antonio,” said Tatum Evans, market manager at Pearl.

“Our anniversary is a special time to thank all participants for their support of and commitment to our local food system.  Take time during our anniversary to thank a farmer and thank a shopper!”

Taste offerings by some of the city’s best talent including Jesse Perez (Arcade), Johnny Hernandez (La Gloria), Steve McHugh (Cured), Tim Rattray (The Granary), Geronimo Lopez (Nao), Jeff White (Boiler House) and Noah Melnagailis (One Lucky Duck).

Pearl is located at 200 E. Grayson St. in San Antonio, Texas. For more information about events at Pearl please click here.

Foie gras with mango and pear

For the longest time, foie gras was a sliver of culinary paradise reserved for high-end restaurant dining. That is, unless you placed an order directly from the likes of Hudson Valley Foie Gras or through Central Market. And then, the cut of liver was large and whole, and you had to cut it yourself before searing it in a pan.

Thanks to the folks at GauchoGourmet, 935 Isom Road, you can now buy this delicious cut into slabs and individually packaged, so you can get two or 10 servings, depending on your hunger or the size of your guest list.

A 2-ounce slab sells for about $$6.35, which is a great price compared with what you pay in restaurants. But the food warehouse recently had a one-day sale that made me want to stock up for the future.

First, I had to get one necessary piece of cooking equipment: a splatter screen.

Searing foie gras produces a lot of fat that will coat the area around your stove. So, be ready to clean up a good-sized area around your pan, even with a splatter guard.

Think you can’t cook foie gras as good as you get at a restaurant? Think again. A 2-ounce slab, cut about 3/4 inch thick will cook quickly, but it’s easy, if you pay attention for a good minute.

Before you start, make sure you know how you want to serve the meat and have everything else ready, because you want to serve your dish immediately after the foie gras is cooked. Remember, this is an ephemeral treat, exceedingly rich and satisfying, yet its magic works only for a short while. You don’t really want leftovers.

Slabs of foie gras

My inspiration was a foie gras club sandwich that chef Andrew Weissman used to serve at Le Rêve. I simplified it greatly, eliminating the buttery brioche and bacon as well as any sort of balsamic reduction. I retained the silky mango and topped both with slivers of pear, instead of the Granny Smith apple that Weissman used. Both the slab of mango and the pear slices were ready to go before I cooked the meat.

What else could you serve with it? Foie gras is great with a glass of Sauternes on the side, so why not a sauce made with a similar wine, such as a German Riesling, that mixes a touch of sweet with a bright acidity to cut through the unctuousness of the liver? Honey and lemon, a drizzle of thick, aged balsamic or sherry vinegar, or a Rossini sauce made with truffles would all go well with it. If you wanted to use a spoonful of jam, think fig, ginger or onion. Nuts and dried fruit, from cherries to figs, would also add to the flavors.

Luciano Ciorciari of GauchoGourmet says he likes his on a piece of toasted baguette with a touch of sweet-tart preserves, such as red currant or lignonberry.

If you wanted to use the foie gras atop a hot steak, just cook the beef first. While it is resting, sear the goose liver.

Handling the liver is easy: Just thaw the slab, score it on both sides (the depth of the criss-crossed cuts will depend on how thick your slab is), and sprinkle it with a little salt and finely ground pepper. Heat a non-stick pan or a regular sauté pan with the tiniest bit of grapeseed or avocado oil until the pan is extremely hot. Place the slabs in the pan and cover instantly. The fat will begin to melt off the slab and splatter. After no more than 30 seconds, flip the foie gras and cook for the same amount of time. Remove and prepare to serve.

That’s it. Then comes the fun part: eating it.

Chef Paco Isordia has a mission. He wants people to discover what real Mexican cuisine is.

Chef Paco Isordia

To that end, he’ll be preparing his Seafood a la Talla at Culinaria’s Best of Mexico, which is set for Friday evening at the Shops at La Cantera, 15900 La Cantera Parkway.

The chef works at Viceroy Zihuatanejo, a resort on the bay waters of Playa la Ropa. In the Pacific Coast enclave, he is known for teaching classes in using organic foods in light, fresh and healthful ways, one of which can be seen in the recipe below.

He recently answered a few questions about people’s perceptions of Mexican food, his favorite ingredients and more.

Q. What surprises Americans visiting your restaurant the most about what they think Mexican food should be like?

A. Many Americans expect Mexican food to be heavy, but so much of real Mexican cuisine is fresh, light and vibrant. It is a seafood-centric culture, and the property takes advantage of local sourcing when available to keep up with this aspect.

Q. You teach classes in cooking with organic food. Why is that important?

A. I believe it is important to understand your food and where it comes from. Using organic ingredients when cooking can give chefs and diners a better idea of how food actually tastes, making the overall experience more authentic.

Q. What are your favorite local ingredients to use in your cooking?

A. I like to use:

• Different types of local fresh seafood: snapper, dorado, tuna lobster, octopus, etc.
• Local products such as epazote, hoja santa, Jamaica, corn, mango, etc.

Q. Name one dish from your childhood that has influenced your cooking today and explain why.

A. I really like the tacos, and now that I have the privilege to know different products I like to combine different flavors. For example, taquitos with guacamole and escamoles (ant larvae), truffle oil, etc.

Q. What do you enjoy eating most when you’re not at work?

A. I love Mediterranean food and Mexican, but I also like to eat what is typical of any place you go.

Seafood a la Talla

1 pound peeled shrimp
1 pound baby scallops
2 pounds octopus
1 pound squid, cleaned
Salt, to taste
Pepper, to taste
¼ cup olive oil
Juice of 2 lemons

Sauce:
4 cloves garlic, divided use
Salt, to taste
½ teaspoon ground cloves
½ teaspoon coriander
1/4 teaspoon cumin
½ teaspoon oregano
½ cup fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons soy sauce
8 guajillo chiles
2 white onions, diced
2 habaneros, chopped
3 jalapeños, chopped
1 pound ripe pineapple, cubed
1 tomato, diced

To assemble:
30 small flour tortillas
1 pound bayo beans or red beans, boiled and mashed
Baby radishes, sliced, for garnish
Micro cilantro or other microgreens, for garnish

Peel and clean the seafood. Season with salt, pepper, olive oil, and lemon juice, and set aside.

Combine 2 cloves garlic and salt in mortar until a paste forms. In either a large mortar or food processor, add garlic paste and process together with cloves, coriander seeds, cumin and oregano. Add mayonnaise, mustard and soy sauce. Set mixture aside.

Roast the guajillo chilies, first removing seeds and boiling briefly to soften. Once roasted, blend with remaining 2 cloves garlic and onion, and mix with seasoning sauce. Add habaneros, jalapeños, pineapple and tomato to sauce.

Marinate seafood with this sauce for at least 90 minutes.

Heat your grill. Grill the seafood over direct heat until it acquires a roasted color and is done, about 5 minutes.

To assemble: Take a tortilla and spread bayo beans over it. Add grilled seafood and top with radishes and microgreens.

Makes 10-12 servings.

Adapted from Paco Isordia of Viceroy Zihuatanejo

For more information on Best of Mexico or other Culinaria events, click here.

This is Culinaria’s Festival Week, and the fun begins Wednesday with a series of themed dinners at restaurants around town.

Wine dinners, a beer dinner, even a scotch dinner — they’re all happening on Wednesday and Thursday.

WEDNESDAY

Wine dinners, a beer dinner and a scotch dinner are all part of Culinaria’s Festival Week.

• Boiler House, 312 Pearl Parkway, (210) 354-4644  — Five-course dinner featuring wines from Flat Creek Estate. Highlights: Pickled big-eye tuna salad, rice cracker crusted diver scallop, and grilled hard spice lamb shoulder skewer. Call for price.
• Arcade Midtown Kitchen, 303 Pearl Parkway, (210) 369-9664 — Four-course dinner with Bonterra Wines includes Hamachi and Scallop Ceviche, Duck Barbacoa Soft Taco and Pecan Smoked Lamb Leg. Price: $55.
• Bliss, 926 S. Presa St., (210) 225-2547 — Six-course dinner with Ramian Wines includes chicken-fried oyster slider, Texas Rabbit, Duck/Duck/Foie and prime strip steak. Price: $100.
• Francesca’s at Sunset at the Westin La Cantera, 16641 La Cantera Parkway, (210) 558-2253 — Five-course dinner features Dina Mondavi of Folio and the Beckers of Becker Vineyards. Highlights include Scallop and Orange Blossom Ravioli, Black Cod Brandade and Rib-eye. Price: $95.
• Lüke Riverwalk, 125 E. Houston St., (210) 227-LUKE (5853) — Wine dinner with Duchman Wines features four courses, including Charred Bandera Quail with Poteet Strawberries and Roasted Cabrito with Eggplant Confit. Price: $75.

THURSDAY

• BIN 555, 555 W. Bitters Road, (210) 496-0555 — The Umai Mi Dinner features a number of Asian-inspired small and large plates, including Spicy Wings, Hot Sticky Ribs, Lemongrass Roasted Chicken, Spicy Cumin Lamb, Tiger’s Cry Flank Steak and Tamarind Glazed Smoked Brisket. Food paired with various wines. $85
• Boiler House, 312 Pearl Parkway, (210) 354-4644 — Six-course beer dinner features Brined Duck Pastrami, Braised Pork Belly and Sweetbread and Spinach Stuffed Quail. Beers include selections from Blue Moon and Leininkugel’s plus others. Call for price.
• Ruth’s Chris Downtown, 1170 E. Commerce St.,   — The Scotch dinner features four courses of food and four scotches, including Oban, Cragganmore, Lagavulin and Dalwinnie. Dishes include a crabtini, wild mushroom bisque and a petit filet. Price: $90.

Prices do not include tax or tip.

Pizza Margherita

“Pizza often gets relegated to the junk food category,” says “My Texas Table: 100 Family Favorites Done Light” (H-E-B, $12.49). “Done right, however, it can be nutritious and tasty. Simply use whole wheat crust, low-fat cheese and lots of fresh basil to enjoy America’s favorite Italian pie guilt-free.”

We don’t need to add anything except: Buon appetito.

Pizza Margherita

1 H-E-B 100 Percent Whole-Wheat Pizza Crust
1 tablespoon H-E-B Olive Oil
1 cup H-E-B Marinara Sauce
12 large fresh basil leaves
1 cup sliced or shredded H-E-B Mozzarella Cheese

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Brush pizza crust with olive oil.

Spread marinara sauce on crust. Place basil leaves evenly over sauce, then top with cheese.

Bake 7 to 10 minutes or until cheese is melted and crust is golden brown.

Approximate nutritional values per serving: 140 calories, 8 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 15 mg cholesterol, 390 mg sodium, 13 g carbohydrate, 2 g dietary fiber, 2 g sugars, 7 g protein.

1 carbohydrate choice.

Makes 6 servings.

From Melissa Vela-Williamson, San Antonio/”My Texas Table: 100 Family Favorites Done Light”

Cruzan’s chef/owner Keith Cruzan.

Cruzan’s opens Monday at 1508 Guadalupe Street. This grand opening marks a long-awaited moment for chef/owner Keith Cruzan, giving him and his staff the opportunity to present a variety of healthy dining options.

These will include gourmet sandwiches to classics such as a New York strip, and a variety of freshly made meals will also be available for pick up.  Cruzan’s will also feature live cooking demonstrations hosted by Cruzan himself during restaurant hours on select days.

For Cruzan, healthy eating is a lifestyle commitment.

“Eating should be just as much about what you are putting into your body as it is what you are not.  It’s easy to get preoccupied with a calorie count, but there is a real danger to limiting your calories without regard to the nutritional content of your diet.  Making sure to include the vitamins and minerals your body craves can actually help you meet weight goals and also improves your energy levels, cognitive abilities and overall mood,” says Cruzan when asked his viewpoint on dieting.

Canapes from Cruzan Catering.

Shortly after opening his catering and personal chef business, Cruzan relocated to the heart of the cultural arts district with a mission to bring a new hope to West Side San Antonians looking for local healthy options.  He began offering cooking classes to the public, as well as local nonprofits, in order to educate local residents on nutritional content.

“Hopefully, this restaurant will be a way for me to give back to a community that has supported me and my business from the very beginning,” Cruzan says.

Cruzan’s will serve lunch only, for now. They’ll be open Monday – Friday from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. After 2 p.m., the store front for meal delivery pickup will be open until 6 p.m.

Correction: An earlier post of this announcement mentioned an event May 29. That event is private. Our apologies!

Boiler House Texas Grill & Wine Garden has named Jeff White as executive chef, promoting an accomplished member of the restaurant’s team. White was previously executive sous chef at the restaurant and was part of the team that opened the restaurant in 2012.

Born and raised in San Antonio, White helped craft the Boiler House menu. His culinary experience includes such prestigious kitchens as  Biga on the Banks, L’Etoile, Acenar, Grey Moss Inn and The Westin River Walk, as well as Austin’s Louis 106 and Palmers in San Marcos. White also has worked with chef/owner Johnny Hernandez at his True Flavors Catering Company.

Jeff White has been named as executive chef at the Boiler House Texas Grill & Wine Garden.

White has received several awards and recognitions, including an invitation to cook a dinner as the featured chef at the prestigious James Beard House in New York City, the People’s Choice Award for the Taste of Elegance, a spot in “Who’s Who in Restaurant Business,” a feature on the cover of San Antonio Magazine and a medal from the American Culinary Federation.

Boiler House is a wine-centric, Texas-style restaurant featuring grilled dishes from local farms and markets and wines from around the world. Housed in the original boiler house that powered the Pearl Brewery during its heyday, the restaurant’s building dates to 1896 and is one of three original structures remaining on the brewery campus.

Boiler House features two floors of dining, as well as an expansive outdoor patio. Boiler House Texas Grill & Wine Garden is located at 312 Pearl Parkway, Building 3, in the shadow of the Pearl brewhouse.

As executive chef, White does not plan to change the Boiler House menu.

“We feature farm fresh ingredients, so we’ll have seasonal changes and we’re always looking at different angles on grilling and Texas cuisine. We’ll be rotating in some new proteins to accompany the new market dishes as spring and summer vegetables become available, but our entire opening team worked to create a lasting menu that has gained fans—we don’t want to disappoint anyone by dropping something they enjoy,” White explained. “At the same time, I like to introduce people to new flavors and ingredients they may not know, so expect some surprises.”

Boiler House is open Monday – Wednesday, 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.; Thursday – Friday, 11 a.m. – midnight; Saturday, 10 a.m. – midnight and Sunday, 10 a.m. – 10 p.m. For the latest Boiler House news, menu and drink specials, follow Boiler House on Facebook, “The Boiler House SA” or on Twitter, “@boilerhousesa.”

Make your own chai at home.

Chai is a Hindi word for tea, but in our culture, it more specifically refers to a version of the drink made with milky rich black tea and flavored with sweet spices.

This version, also known as masala chai, has gained quite a following in Indian restaurants as well as coffeehouses.

You can make it easily at home, if you have a well-stocked spice cabinet and a good spice grinder, as the recipe below from Food.com ably demonstrates. It’s a lot cheaper this way than the price you pay, plus you can make it the way you want, maybe with a little more ginger or a little less black pepper.

Or you could give a spice mix called Rani Brand Tea Masala a try. I found this at the Himalayan Bazar, 8466 Fredericksburg Road. The mix, which costs about $3.99 for a 3-ounce jar, has the spices already ground together. And that’s all it has. The ingredient label promises it’s made up of only the following: cardamom seeds, green cardamom, nutmeg, cloves, black pepper, dry ginger, cinnamon and anise seeds.

No sugar, no artificial sweetener, no preservatives. The recipe on the side calls for the black tea, the milk and the sugar added. I left out any sweetener altogether (I don’t drink sweet tea, either) and enjoyed the extra spiciness. Just remember to strain the chai as you pour it into the cup, because the spices, unlike the sugar, won’t dissolve.

Masala Chai

4 whole cloves
2 cardamom pods
1 cinnamon stick, broken into pieces
3 cups water
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1/8 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
1/2 cup milk
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 tablespoons black tea (decaf is best)

In a mortar, crush the cloves, cardamom pods and cinnamon, or use a coffee grinder.

Transfer the crushed spices to a small saucepan, add the water, ginger and pepper and bring to a boil.

Remove the pan from the heat, cover and let steep for 5 minutes.

Add the milk and sugar to the pan and bring to a boil.

Remove from the heat and add the tea.

Cover and let steep for 3 minutes.

Stir the chai, then strain it into a warmed teapot or directly into teacups.

Makes 2-3 servings.

From Food.com

It’s time for suds and hops. It’s San Antonio Beer Week.

Can anyone get enough beer? That’s the question that beer lovers will ask themselves when the third annual San Antonio Beer Week begins May 12 with a Mother’s Day party at Freetail Brewing Company. It concludes the following Saturday, May 18, with a pint crawl that will visit at least five breweries.

SABW “is a special week dedicated to celebrating beer and the community that enjoys it!” according to the event’s website. “Events will include a special night at each of the San Antonio-area breweries, special beer dinners and tastings, walking pub crawls, a bus pub crawl, (and) a pro-am brewing competition for a chance to have your beer entered in the Great American Beer Festival.”

Here are a few highlights of the week:

• Bake, Boil and Brew, 1508 Guadalupe St., is hosting is its annual Sweet and Sour Soiree at 5 p.m. May 12. Four samples from Sour Beers paired with treats from Sweet Fuzion Cupcakes will be featured at the event.
• Visit Pedernales Brewing Company in Fredericksburg and taste its new beer, the Lobito, on a bus tour that leaves Blue Star in San Antonio at 9 a.m. May 13. Lunch is at the Fredericksburg Brewing Co.
• Branchline Brewing Co. hosts the opening festivities at 6 p.m. May 13 at its brewery, 3633 Metro Parkway. A new beer brewed just for the occasion will be served.
• Gastronomica Progressive Culinaria, an underground dinner group, and Big Hops Growler Station are partnering up for a 7-course craft beer dinner at 5:30 and 7:30 p.m. May 15. Tickets are $50. The dinner’s at Big Hops, 8313 Broadway.
• The Point Park & Eats, 24180 Boerne Stage Road, is hosting Open the Taps, a showcase of Texas craft beers, set for 6 p.m. May 16.

There are more events on the schedule. For a full list, click here.

A few of the participating breweries include 5 Stones Craft Brewing Co., The Granary, Blue Star Brewing Co., Ranger Creek Brewing and Distilling, Alamo Beer Company, Branchline Brewing, Freetail Brewing, Pedernales, and Fredericksburg Brewing Co.

It all just makes you want to fill a mug with your favorite beer and then chase it with a brew that’s new.