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A Winning Combination: Chefs & Cellars

A Winning Combination: Chefs & Cellars

Chefs and Cellars wine glass

San Antonio chefs paired up with cellar masters Sunday night for an event staged by Culinaria every year near the beginning of the fall season.

This winning combination invites wine collectors to bring out rare and wonderful bottles to share while chefs and their crews do some pretty fancy footwork marrying food to wine.

This event, at $300 per ticket, is one of Culinaria’s most sought-after and usually sells out early. Surprisingly, it doesn’t call for dressing up — business casual is the stated attire. But there’s nothing casual about the expectations of the guests who gathered in the skills kitchen of the Culinary Institute of America, San Antonio.

Our table had high expectations of (as well as confidence in) our cellar master, wine expert and Vintages 2.0 owner Fernando “Woody” de Luna, a longtime wine writer and certified wine educator as well as wine retailer who recently marked 35 years in the wine business in central Texas.

Ceviche of Clams and Mexican Bay Scallops

Ceviche of Clams and Mexican Bay Scallops

De Luna is respected especially for his great knowledge and appreciation of Old World wines, especially the Rieslings of Germany, Alsace and Austria, the wines of France — especially Burgundy and  Champagne — as well as Spanish Rioja and Sherry and Italy’s Tuscany and Piedmont.

Our chef, Jesse Perez, is the chef and owner of Arcade Midtown Kitchen at the Pearl. His menu reflected his love of Southwest and interior Mexican flavors and spices, locally sourced ingredients, such as Bandera quail, Mexican sea scallops, lamb and more. His starter was a Ceviche of Clams and Mexican Bay Scallops, a cool but crisply flavored mélange of tender, marinated scallops with a chamomile and green-apple sauce, brioche crouton and citrus.

While one might expect that the chef and cellar master had put their heads together over many tastings and discussions to come up with the pairings, Perez simply asked for the wine list, brief explanations of what de Luna planned to bring — then did some footwork on his own.

“There are two ways to pair wines with food — you can contrast the flavors or match them,” Perez said at the beginning of the meal. His decision was to match them. Hence, the chamomile and green-apple flavors in the ceviche, which echoed the bright, crisp flavors of the Pierre Gimonnet Brut NV Blanc de Blancs Cuis 1er Cru Magnum.

Lineup of wine from Woody del Luna of Vingates 2.0

Lineup of wine from Woody de Luna of Vintages 2.0. Photo courtesy Vintages 2.0

De Luna’s first offering for the evening and was not one of the big-name brands of the Champagne region. Rather it was a grower Champagne, which means it is a product of the men and women on their own estates, growing their own grapes, as de Luna described. This was a beautiful, balanced sparkler well-suited as an aperitif all by itself, as well as a worthy companion to the bright colors and fresh seafood in the appetizer.

Fernando "Woody" de Luna

Fernando “Woody” de Luna

The courses continued with similar success. Bandera Texas Quail with Smoked Chile was served with a spectacular and rare 2010 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Tradition Kamtal Magnum, from Austria. The wine was dry, yet the fruit gave an impression of sweetness that was a good foil for the dark chile sauce as well as the spicy bite of a white bean hummus.  The food was well thought out — and a delicate little chicken-fried quail leg-quarter was a table favorite. But in this case, the wine was the wonder: Its complexity of flavor, acidity, vinous characteristics and more cascaded over the palate and unfolded “like a waterfall” as de Luna described it. “I love the purity of wines in the Old World,” he said. It was sheer gold in a glass.

Butter Poached Cold Water Lobster and Prawns

Butter Poached Cold Water Lobster and Prawns

In the next course, Perez came back with a lovely Butter Poached Cold Water Lobster and Prawns, an excellent choice for the 2006 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir Domaine Billaud Simon Chablis, France Magnum.

Chablis is a wine that, for me and most other Old World wine enthusiasts, is one of the best expressions of the Chardonnay grape. (The other being blanc de blancs Champagne.) The elegance of this Grand Cru wine, dry yet so full in character, vibrant minerality and other expressions of the famous terroir, showed that a Chardonnay doesn’t have to sparkle to be a classic accompaniment lobster.

Also, as de Luna pointed out, this wine, which comes from vineyards at the northern limit of the region, is one of only seven vineyards allowed to carry the Grand Cru designation.

While the lobster in this dish was sweet and tender, even this classy crustacean was nearly upstaged by Perez’s inspiring (as in, let’s go home and make some now) Gazpacho Blanco and Toasted Almonds that provide the brothy foundation for the dish. The “untraditional garnishes” included some unusual grapes that Perez had picked up at Central Market that day, called ‘witches fingers.” Dark and purple they were — and elongated. But their witchy presence was an artful addition to the white gazpacho.

Perez chose lamb — barbacoa, chop, loin and belly — for his third course. The rich meat was surrounded with an array of grilled and roasted vegetables that added color and tamed the fattiness of the course. The tender and flavorful barbacoa seemed to be a table favorite — “I’d buy a couple of pounds of this and take it home for breakfast tacos,” said one approving guest.

Chef Jesse Perez

Chef Jesse Perez

Spain was the Old World region from which De Luna chose his wine. A 1998 Gran Reserva 904 La Rioja Alta, Haro, Spain, Magnum was the kind of red wine that lamb wants — as the Spaniards know so well. The wine was a sleek version of this famed Spanish red, robust and smooth and was compatible with each of the versions of lamb on the plate.

We ended this culinary cruise with a cheese board, Sweet and Savory, which ranged from an excellent ricotta cheesecake brownie to the chef’s selection of cheeses, fruits and nuts. A fun surprise was to find a bit of dark, fragrant honey in the comb that was provided by one of our table mates, Robert H. Holliday. His longtime hobby of beekeeping added an intensely sweet ending to this meal.

With the cheese board came de Luna’s second Riesling of the evening, the 2001 Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese Gold Kapsule Weingut Monchoff, Mosel, Germany. The “Auslese’ in the name lets you know that this is one of the sweeter styles of the wine, and with the rich cheeses and nuts, it was a fine match.

As the evening drew to an end, the various tables, set up throughout the kitchen and dining areas, each  custom  decorated by the hosts, gave out with loud cheers for their wines, chefs and crews. It was praise well-deserved.

Other chef/cellar master teams included chef/restaurateur Jason Dady with Phil Seelig and Hien Nguyen; John Brand, chef of Omni Hotels restaurants Las Canarias and Ostra with Gabriel Guajardo; chefs James Moore and Jeff White with Dr. Richard Becker of Becker Vineyards and Geronimo Lopez-Monascal, executive chef at NAO, with Dr. Joe Becker, Becker Vineyards.

Tipperary Cocktail, from Arcade Midtown Kitchen, a barrel-aged concoction with a supersized, hand-hewn ice cube.

Tipperary Cocktail, from Arcade Midtown Kitchen, a barrel-aged concoction with a supersized, hand-hewn ice cube.

To reach Fernando de Luna at Vintages 2.0, call 210-410-0296.


Photos by Bonnie Walker

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Summer Wine: Roses and Rosé Strewn About

Summer Wine: Roses and Rosé Strewn About

By Cecil Flentge

Rose bottle rose 2I am as guilty as anyone of misquoting Shakespeare when writing about rosé wines.  You could try something about “Putting the rosé in your cheeks …” but that sounds too much like I am a lush and that is just out of style.

“It rosé to the occasion …” is rather obscure and Neil Diamond’s lawyers would be all over me if I used “Cracklin’ Rosie.”

But this one is simple, it has roses on the label, roses on the cork, roses imprinted in the name, the bottle is a rose, and there is a very nice French rosé inside the bottle.  So I have to be describing the new arrival at “my” H-E-B, Cote des Roses.

This is from the Gerard Bertrand family of wineries ($13) and is sourced from the Languedoc in southern France.

Fact:  The bottle is clear glass to show the copper tinged, pink of the wine.  A cantaloupe, peach, and über-ripe pineapple fragrance which is a departure from the cherry-watermelon of many rosé wines.  The aroma is echoed on the palate with a mineral finish that is reminiscent of pink sea salt (maybe a rosé de sel?).  Dry, fruity and flavorful throughout.

An imprint of a rose on the bottom of this rose is a wonderful signature.

An imprint of a rose on the bottom of this rosé bottle is a wonderful signature.


Feeling:  My companion’s immediate reaction to “What does this wine make you think of doing?” was “Drinking it while I admire the bottle.”

It is an unusual bottle with the base being a dramatic imprint of a rose and it did bring to mind giving it as a gift wrapped in green tissue, inverted, so that you could present a ‘rose.’

But to more immediate gratification, serve with scallops or shrimp, maybe wrapped in prosciutto, maybe just crumbled bacon on a seared scallop – ah, the salty-crispy bacon, the sweet, unctuous, scallop, all enrobed in the peach-melon of the wine … bon appétit!


Cecil Flentge is a San Antonio wine educator for professionals or novices and a restaurant/bar consultant. Restaurant events or home tastings. Questions? Email

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Get a Taste of Italy in the Hill Country – Duchman Vermentino 2010

Get a Taste of Italy in the Hill Country – Duchman Vermentino 2010

duchmanBy Cecil Flentge

Duchman (pronounced Duke-man) Family Winery in Driftwood, Texas, specializes in wines made of grapes commonly thought of as Italian. Sangiovese of Chianti fame and Montepulciano, which is grown extensively in the Abruzzo region, are two examples. Their Vermentino (pronounced ver-mehn-TEE-noh) follows in the same vein. Most famous in northern Sardinia, this Texas edition is both a surprise and a delight (pronounced Good!). It is available at Twin Liquors for about $12.


Made from 100 percent Texas grapes grown in the Texas High Plains AVA (American Viticultural Area), this robust white evokes lime and citrus blossom on the nose. It has the appropriate mouthfeel, a smooth viscosity found in classic Vermentino wines, and the flavors flow to pear, lime and grapefruit with a nice minerality lingering in the finish. The alcohol does not give any harshness, even though it is high at 14.4 percent, and that is a side benefit of the rich presence of the grapes’ glycerol. Overall, a nice Vermentino from a new area.


This so calls to be a brunch wine! Delicate enough to caress lobster or shrimp salads, robust enough for a plate of braised clams, and crisp enough to mingle with the tastes of the sea in oysters on the half shell. But just chill it and taste the welcome that it gives.

Cecil Flentge is a San Antonio wine educator for professionals or novices and a restaurant/bar consultant. Questions? Email



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Old or New: A World of Difference

Old or New: A World of Difference

Troy Knapp is executive chef at Hyatt Hill Country Resort & Spa as well as a certified sommerlier

Troy Knapp is executive chef at the Hyatt Hill Country as well as a certified sommelier.

By Troy Knapp

As complicated as wine can be, there are two major categories into which most wine fits, and with an understanding of this simple concept comes a better comprehension of what to expect from the diverse world of wine.

I know it sounds almost too easy, right?  It all comes down to this simple fact: Does the wine come from the Old World or the New World?  Sommeliers use this question in their repertoire to help them identify what a particular person’s palate is partial to and discover what may pair with a specific dish.

The Old World, as applies to wine, consists of: Italy, France, Germany, Spain, Portugal, Greece, Austria and many other wine regions in Europe.  When wine is made classically from the Old World, it will display some aromatics that are associated with the earth.  Whites from these regions typically have a strong foundation of minerality.  An underlying commonality of chalk, stone, wet stone, slate, or even oyster shells from the soil can give a presence of synergy with the land.  Old World reds can display notes of tobacco, mushroom, forest floor, soil and even a dampness quality that is primary to floral- and fruit-driven qualities and naturally finish dryer than their New World counterparts.

The New World consists of: USA, Canada, Australia, South Africa, New Zealand and South America’s regions of Chile and Argentina.  Due to a modern style of wine and warmer climate, a higher perception of fruit and a touch of residual sugar may be present, all contributing to a fuller mouth feel and perceived sweetness.  Some may display subtle earthy notes, however they are secondary to the fruit characteristics.

Now, there is always an exception.  You can have a New World wine made by a producer with a respect for the Old World or an Old World producer making a wine that is engineered to lure the palates of those who prefer a New World style — it depends on the market.  It’s a matter of the manipulation, or lack thereof, during the winemaking process that can make these differences.  If you seek out wine that is more traditionally made, then it is more likely to hit the classic markers.  Your local wine shop specialist or restaurant sommelier can assist you with this.

Which do you prefer: Old World or New World wines?

Which do you prefer: Old World or New World wines?

I personally gravitate towards Old World or cooler climate New World wines when pairing with food.  The body and alcohol are typically a little lower with the acidity being a little higher; these attributes relate well with food.  When the weather cools, a New World wine can really hit the spot and can be preferred when drinking without a meal as they can be rich, unctuous (without being overly sweet) and full-bodied.

Ready to taste the difference?  Try a well-made New World wine versus a classically made Old World wine of the same grape variety side by side.

Here are some examples to try:

  • New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc vs. White Bordeaux or Sancerre
  • Domestic Pinot Gris/Grigio vs. the same from Northern Italy or Alsace France
  • Domestic or Australian Riesling vs. the same from Germany or Alsace France
  • Domestic Chardonnay vs. White Burgundy
  • Australian Shiraz vs. Northern Rhone Syrah
  • Californian Cabernet Sauvignon vs. Left Bank Bordeaux
  • Domestic Merlot vs. Right Bank Bordeaux
  • California Pinot Noir vs. Red Burgundy

Tasting them in a blind format will eliminate any preconceived notions, so place the bottles in brown paper bags and mix them up. Can you decipher which is which?

More importantly, you’ll be able to identify which one you prefer.  Wine is all about personal preference and utilizing this tip will certainly help you in understanding what you like.  Next time you are ordering a bottle to accompany a nice dinner, you can simply say, “I am looking for a red from the Old World.”  You’ll have easily narrowed it down to a selection that is more likely to please your palate, because “”old” and “new”  can make a world of difference.

Troy Knapp is executive chef at the Hyatt Hill Country as well as a certified sommelier.

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Cabanero Wine: Robust, Rowdy, Habanero-Infused

Cabanero Wine: Robust, Rowdy, Habanero-Infused

By Cecil Flentge

In the early ’90s I occasionally used a wine from the long-past, local San Antonio Winery that was simply called “Jalapeño wine.” It was a white wine with jalapeño added, not awful, worked well in deglazing a pan to make a slightly spicy sauce.

There is a California winery of the same name that does something similar and wineries in several other states, including Texas, making wines with some Capsicum derivative.  At Dry Comal Creek winery they pour a white wine in a shot glass that has a jalapeño slice in it to make their Shooting Blancs, available daily at their tasting room.  So when I heard that HEB was about to release a red wine and spicy habanero pepper blend, I was curious.

HEB has done consumer taste tests with their object to make a wine to pair with our ubiquitous Mexican/Tex-Mex/Central American food flavors.  We have all heard one lament or another about “wine doesn’t go with Tex-Mex” and while there are options out there, they are rarely on the wine list in those restaurants.  HEB apparently took this as a challenge and created Cabanero, a blend of California Cabernet, Petit Verdot, and Syrah infused with habanero spice.

Yes, it has a little spice from the habanero pepper.  But the spice level is just enough to warm you on a cold day.

There is a little residual sugar but less than many White Zinfandel wines and with the dishes that this wine was crafted to match, the light sweetness can be a pleasant addition. HEB recommends you pair this wine with Chicken Mole, Carne Asada, Xic Tic En Cochinita Pibil, Flan, Carnitas and Tamales.

They have started advertising Cabanero and it should be in stores now or sometime soon.  Regular price will be $11.

Tasting and reviewing a wine that is unique is more difficult than a more usual Chardonnay or Tempranillo because you do not have the history of how others of the genre taste.  The only way that I could measure the wine was to taste it paired with the dishes recommended.  So I drove to a favorite spot, El Jalisco on Blanco Road, and with a companion ordered Carne Asada and Chiles Rellenos.

I had chilled the wine, though there is no temperature detail on the bottle, because all wine should be chilled to one degree or another and if I had it too cold – well, it would warm up in time.  However, from my experience, I do recommend that you serve it after 45 minutes in the refrigerator (about 55-60 degrees).  Sniffing the wine there is a cherry, cinnamon, and meaty pepper fragrance with a whiff of a candied note.  It is a light aroma but persistent and sipping the wine brought a soft cherry, ripe red chile-pepper flavor that starts slowly to warm your mouth and throat with the moderate capsicum burn.

Just before our dishes arrived and we sampled the chips and salsa with the wine.  This salsa is a fresh tomato style and the wine brought the tomato flavor to the fore when I tasted the combination.  Now, a disclaimer, I am not a fan of fresh tomato and my companion did not have the same experience so maybe I am just a bit sensitive to that flavor.  It would not be a negative anyway, just a point of interest.

Cabanero and Carne Asada is a very good match.  El Jalisco also served some sautéed ‘wild cactus’ with the Asada and it also went very well.  The Chiles Rellenos started with a roasted and peeled poblano pepper covered with toasted cheese, no breading, not fried and the beef filling is savory, not sweet.  Pairing it and the Cabanero brought out the fruity qualities of the wine and a return of the light candied aspect.  The refried beans were an excellent match with the Cabanero, the best of what we tried, like they were made for each other – which I guess they were.

Will we see other unconventional wines from HEB?  That is for the future to show, but this is an ambitious experiment that is worth a look.


Cecil Flentge is a San Antonio wine educator for professionals or novices and a cooking instructor. Restaurant events or home tastings.  Questions? Email

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Wine: Thinking Inside the Box

Wine: Thinking Inside the Box

By Cecil Flentge

Box wine, bag-in-box, evenflo bottles for adults.  Yes, that is what I am telling you.  But what would you expect?  I already have jumped the natural cork boat for the screwcap bottle, is it that much of a surprise that I might try the dark side of wine – the box?  I have tried several and the most important thing I have learned is that they are not all bad.  A few are quite pleasant and you cannot beat the convenience or price.  The labeling is different than it used to be.  A box wine was called, “Juicy White” or “Burgundy” (even if it was from California).  It was made by, wait, let me get my magnifier, the print is just too small, oh here it is, AmalgaMuck industries.  Vintage?  We don’t need no vintage!  But times change and now we have a winery that also sells wine in glass bottles, doin’ da box!  Why?

They’re cheaper to produce and that means cheaper to buy.

They’re lighter, so even if the box holds the volume of four bottles of wine, it isn’t that heavy.

They stay fresh longer, so if you only drink a glass a day you can enjoy the last glass as much as the first.

If you do the math, there are 20 to 24 glasses per three-liter box, so at least three weeks to consume.  No problem because the wine does not have air in contact with it until it is in your glass.  The oxygen in air is what makes the wine taste bad after a few days.  But a regular bottle?  Five or six glasses at one a day?  Man, the last two glasses will be a little tangy! Or you will just throw it away. (You could still cook with it.)  Wine in a box will last at least six weeks after you open it.

Big House, Unchained Naked Chardonnay, California 2011

Available at H-E-B for $18/3 liter box

This particular wine has the hardest to open box-spout arrangement I have encountered.  Most of them have a punch out circle and a fold-out flap.  You punch the hole and move the flap to pull the spigot forward.  Then move the flap back to hold it in place.  This one just has the hole and my blunt digits could not do the job so I opened the top of the box, pushed things out where they needed to be, taped the top closed.  Then, since it is a Chardonnay, I needed to chill it.  You have to give four hours at least to chill that big a bag of wine, so plan ahead.  On the other side, once you have it cold, you could take it out on the patio and it will stay cold for an hour or more.

But this is a huge preamble to the main event, how does it taste?


A light yellow wine in the glass with moderate fruit on the nose.  Apple, lemon, and a hint of pear notes that repeats on the palate.  Decent weight on the tongue with persistent fruit flavor throughout the short, dry, finish.  The wine is not bone dry, but it is not one you would casually call sweet.  Since I know you are thinking it, no, there is no metallic/odd/chemical/whangy taste at the end.  I know because I was in an anticipatory cringe expecting it to happen!


I am working at making dinner, yes – a guy slaving over the hot stove for his honey!  It makes me want to taste something cold so I do and it feels nice.  I do not have to think about, “But if I open a bottle, I won’t be home until late tomorrow night and then I am out with friends the next and it will go bad by the time I get back to it.”  I just get me a glass, or a half glass, or a glass and an eighth, and relax. It matched well with a lightly curried chicken and at 90 cents a glass, a steal!


Cecil Flentge is a San Antonio wine educator for professionals or novices and a cooking instructor. Restaurant events or home tastings.  Questions? Email




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Value Pinot Noir That Works? Lindeman’s Makes It

Value Pinot Noir That Works? Lindeman’s Makes It

By Cecil Flentge

Shopping for wine is both a hobby for me and a necessity.  You have to resupply if you re-consume.  But I do enjoy the process – looking for new wineries, unusual grape varieties, wines from wineries I have visited, great prices — it is still a game to me.  However, looking for Pinot Noir from a less-usual wine region, only a year and a half old, at a bargain-bin price, is not what I set out to do.  But there it was, go figure.

Lindeman’s has been making wine for a long time with their first plantings of Riesling, Verdelho, and Shiraz grapes in 1843.

This wine is sourced from multiple vineyards and is 100 percent Pinot Noir grapes.

Lindeman’s Bin 99 Pinot Noir, South Eastern Australia 2011

Available at CostCo Liquors (open to anyone) for $3.99.  Yes, 3.99!


Fresh red cherry, hints of raspberries, and a sense of terroir – the earthy stamp given to a wine by the soil, sun and sense of place where it was grown, all expressed on the nose, if lightly.  Red fruits, cedar, grapefruit on the palate with characteristically light tannins were moderate and clear.  As the wine evolved it showed staying power and a bit of fresh saddle-leather aroma.  The grapefruit stayed on the medium length finish with the earthy cherry persisting.  As young as it is,  it may improve for 6-12 months.  While I do not recommend long cellaring, it should hold for a few years.


What I feel like is I got away with something!  Pouring this wine with dinner I was already casting my mind to what else I would probably have to open when this wine proved unworthy.  But as critically as I approached it, I first found nothing wrong, then I started to like it, then with the broiled pork chops seasoned with thyme, sage, and celery seed powder it just blossomed!  My wife and I kept stopping and saying ‘this is really matching well’ during dinner.  Baked potato – potato salad with a vegetable stock and cream dressing was still able to co-exist with this properly constrained wine.  If you can enjoy a red wine that does not come in like a Viking invasion, one that lets your meal participate instead of cringing at the edge of the plate, try the Bin 99!




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Wine Review: Santa Rita Cab Tastes Great and Promises More

Wine Review: Santa Rita Cab Tastes Great and Promises More

By Cecil Flentge

Santa Rita Winery, Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley 2009

I like good wine.  I like to save money.  I love good, inexpensive wine.  So when I looked in the cellar for something to go with what I call ‘Salsabury Steak’ (hamburger, Italian sausage, salsa – made into a patty) the wine right in front of me beckoned. A Santa Rita 2008, I found it scrumptious, I wanted more.  But now the wine on the shelves is the 2009, would it be as good?


This estate-grown Cabernet Sauvignon comes from vineyards located in Chile’s Maipo Valley, just south of Santiago.  As you take in the aroma, you get a hint of smoke and cedar, then the ripe cherry laced with earthy minerality.  The flavors built as I sipped with cherry, coffee, and grilled radicchio bringing depth and richness.  The tannins are there but subdued by the balanced acidity and long finish where, after a few minutes, there was a definite cocoa component. I expect that this wine will improve for a year or two and hold for several more.

Widely distributed, this wine is available at HEB for $9.


With or without dinner, this wine was the ever comfortable friend that told my tongue just what it wanted to hear.  The match with the richly flavored beef and pork patty was perfect.  The spicy salsa took nothing away from the wine and the wine wooed a bit more fun out of dinner.  Trying 2008 sent me looking; the 2009 tells me I can relax and depend on this winery.  So buy a case!

Cecil Flentge is a native Texan who tours wine regions, offers wine education classes, and writes an eNewsletter about wine and food. Contact him at



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Wines That Please — In Any Season!

Wines That Please — In Any Season!

By Jeremy Parzen

Wine makes a great gift for Dad.

Five years ago, it would have been unimaginable to give dad wine for father’s day. Back then, in the age before the millennial generation decided that it would make wine its favorite luxury beverage, we still bought our fathers ties, golf clubs, and Weber grills and smokers to celebrate their “special day.”

But fast forward to the summer of 2012 and many of those dads are millennials themselves. And even those who still belong to generation X have come to understand the vital importance of wine in society today.

If you’re planning to give Dad a groovy bottle this year, look beyond the predictable Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that the baby boomers still drink. After all, who wants to drink tannic, highly alcoholic, concentrated, chunky and immature Napa Valley Cab in the Texas summer, with temperatures already hitting 100 degrees and beyond.

Here are some interesting, food-friendly wines currently available in our market, at prices that sit nicely within a gift-giving budget — even if you’ve got two dads!

Vincent Girardin 2009 Sauvigny-les-Beaune

This bottle is what New Yorker’s call “outer borough” Burgundy, a great introduction to Pinot Noir from its most famous appellation (Gabriel’s Superstore, $27.99).

Mongeard Mugneret 2009 Fixin

Fixin is one of Burgundy’s “best kept secrets,” a village located adjacent to the more famous Gevrey-Chambertin (Gabriel’s Superstore, $28.99).

Castelgiocondo 2005 Brunello di Montalcino

Brunello is Italian for “perfect gift for dad.” We’re not sure how Gabriel’s managed offer to this obscenely low price for a modern-style Brunello (and wine pundit favorite), but we’re not asking any questions (not on the floor; ask a salesperson; Gabriel’s Superstore, $25).

Château Pradeaux 2007 Bandol Rosé

Rosé isn’t exactly what comes to mind when you think Dad but this year think “pink”: this classic producer delivers muscular, austere expressions of rosé from Mourvèdre from Southern France (Saglimbeni, $37.99; everything 20 percent off Friday and Saturday).

Fontanafredda 2008 Briccotondo Barbera

The Italians like to chill their Barbera in summertime and this wine, with vibrant acidity and wild berry fruit flavors, is ideal for summer grills (Saglimbeni, $17.99; everything 20 percent off Friday and Saturday).

Jeremy Parzen, author of the blog, believes that “food and wine are exegetic tools that help to attain a more profound understanding of the human condition and experience.” He resides in Austin with his wife, Tracie, and their 5-month-old daughter, Georgia.

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Troy Knapp on Wine: Show a Little Respect

Troy Knapp on Wine: Show a Little Respect

Troy Knapp

Troy Knapp is executive chef at the Hyatt Hill Country Resort, including Antlers Lodge. He’s also a Certified Sommelier and Certified Specialist of Wine. His wine column appears regularly in SavorSA.

Most of the products we eat or drink take an under-appreciated path before arriving on our dining room table.  As a chef, I feel as if I am a shepherd, seeking the best-quality product and consciously taking care of it by showcasing it simply in the best possible way. Wine is no different.  For those who work the vineyard and oversee the wine-making process it is truly a labor of love.   Below I have listed a few techniques that will allow you to enjoy wine at its full potential by simply giving it the attention and respect it deserves.


A good-quality, tulip-shaped crystal wine glass will benefit in more ways than one.  First off, crystal is rough compared to glass although not easily detected by the human eye; under a microscope it is quite noticeable. With your fingertip you can easily feel the friction on the rim of a crystal product and even play a subtle ringing hum that cannot be replicated on the perfectly smooth glass product. When wine is swirled in crystal, the rough surface will create more agitation and intensify the aromatics or as we say (volatize the esters) essentially, making it more enticing to the nose.   I find that a medium-to-large tulip-shaped glass is the most universal and will allow for enough room to swirl while concentrating the bouquet.

Seasoning the glass

Always give your glassware a sniff before using as residual chlorine or soap that was not properly rinsed off will most definitely interfere.  Make sure the glass is rinsed thoroughly and aired dry. If you are in a restaurant, ask for a new glass.  Dust can easily work its way into your glass during storage so an easy way to completely enjoy wine without the distraction of foreign remnants is to simply “season it.” To do this, add a tiny amount of the wine you are about to drink to your glass and roll the stem of the glass in your fingers while tilting it.  Essentially you want to cover the entire interior of the glass with the wine.  Then, dump it out.  Remember, I did say use a tiny amount.

Then fill up your glass with confidence in the purity of what you are going to consume.  This is also a good technique when transitioning to a new wine that may have a noticeable dominant character that will stand out in the new wine where it doesn’t belong.  Pouring an un-oaked Chardonnay into the same glass that previously contained a highly aromatic Gewürztraminer is a good example of when the “seasoning” element will help.  Rinsing with water will only contribute to dilution, so I don’t recommend that.


This is a big one. We typically pour whites at refrigerator temperature, which is too cold and reds at room temperature, which is too warm. Ideally most whites should be around 45 degrees and most reds at 55-60 degrees. Freestanding wine cellars are great to have as you can generally “set it and forget it.”  Another way to achieve this is to remove your whites from the refrigerator a full half hour or so before consuming and the opposite for reds, as these can benefit from a half-hour of refrigeration. Light-bodied reds can benefit from a more aggressive chill, however the tannin in big powerful reds will be more pronounced when chilled. So, a  slight chill to simply bring them down from room temperature is the objective.

Aeration and Decanting 

Most wines benefit nicely with aeration.  The interaction with oxygen will allow for the wine to emerge and show its full potential.  Pouring the wine into a wide-bottomed decanter and allowing it to rest will require some patience yet will be sure to enhance your drinking pleasure. The million-dollar question is how long? It can range from a half an hour to half a day.  There is no perfect answer as there are so many variables that come into play.  Most wine will definitely benefit from at least a short decant and it can be quite exciting to sip on the wine slowly as it develops and evolves with time in the glass.

Don’t be afraid to decant white wines for a short while as well.  Even sparkling wines can go through a subtle transformation that some will prefer.  It will dial the bubbles back slightly and ultimately showcase the core of the wine.  A narrow-bottomed decanter would be the preferred vessel for sparkling, as you wouldn’t want to spread the contents too thin and overly dissipate the sparkle.

For those with little patience, aerators come in handy and will allow you the benefit of aerating as you go.  You can simply pour a glass at a time through these small devices that will create a fairly viscous interaction with oxygen and open the wine up quicker, while allowing you to preserve the wine in the bottle for later.


If you want to store wine overnight there are a few things you need to know.  We just covered decanting and accelerating the interaction with oxygen. In this scenario, however, we need to do the opposite and minimize the exposure to oxygen as much as possible.  Most wine left out at room temperature will most likely be undrinkable the following day.  The refrigerator will slow down the rate of oxidation and therefore preserve the wine longer than if it was left at room temperature.  Some even put their reds in the refrigerator to achieve this.  Wine preservation argon works quite well and will add several days of preservation to your open bottle.  It can be purchased at wine shops for about $10 and is good for around 120 uses.  Another method is to consume half of the contents of the bottle and store the remainder in a half-sized 375 ml .bottle.  If the half-size bottle is topped off and filled properly, it will have minimal exposure to oxygen and allow for another day or two of quality drinking.

So pay homage to the winemakers who give us this wonderful beverage by sipping slowly and most of all — enjoy it at its full potential with others who will appreciate it.



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