I recently sat next to a woman who, when presented with dessert, deeply moaned, “I just love Cabernet and chocolate.” She then took a deep taste of wine and matched it with a taste of the chocolate mousse she’d been served.

The look on her face was, well, not as ecstatic as the expectation had been. In fact, she grimaced.

“Something must be wrong with the wine,” she muttered.

Nope. Nothing was wrong with the wine. It was fine before she tasted the dessert, and it was fine after.

It was just that Cabernet Sauvignon does not go with chocolate, despite what she and many of you have long been told.

Why?

Because the wine you drink has to be sweeter than the food you eat. It’s that simple. Put a dry wine, like most Cabernet Sauvignons, up against a sweet dessert, and the ripe fruit flavors in the wine that you had enjoyed only moments ago have become sour, shrill and acrid.

Sugar can do that.

Still, some are promulgating the marriage of Cab and chocolate, despite it being headed straight for divorce court. One chocolate company announces that it’s product is “specially formulated to complement wine. Using a blend based on the best chocolate from Ghana … ” It even recommends you eat this chocolate with “Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Barolo. … The pur cacao complements and pairs well with the tannins of a full-bodied red wine.”

Don’t believe everything you read. This 70-percent chocolate is far sweeter than that Bordeaux, and pairing the two would be the culinary equivalent of a train wreck.

There are a few red wines that do go with chocolate.

Take Banyuls, please. This is a dessert wine from the Pyrenees region in the southwest of France. It’s largely made from Grenache, but other grapes, including some whites, can be used. The flavors that arise from the glass are often vanilla, cinnamon and even a touch of cocoa powder, certainly perfect for flourless chocolate cake, chocolate mousse, chocolate-dipped strawberries, brownies, chocolate chip cookies or chocolate body lotion.

Banyuls, again, is a dessert wine, and it should be drunk in smaller portions than the wine you’d drink with dinner. It’s that sweet, and it’s often fortified, so check the alcohol content before pouring.

Prices range from the high teens on up the scale. Not a great many make into the San Antonio market, so ask the wine stewards at your favorite specialty shop for a recommendation.

Another wine made for chocolate is the Banfi’s Rosa Regale ($25), a sparkling wine with a seductive red hue. Even people who only drink dry wines have been known to enjoy a glass of this. At this time of year, you can often find the Rosa Regale in premium supermarkets as well as fine wine shops.

So, save the Cabernet Sauvignon for a steak or for enjoying by itself. And grab something else to go with chocolate this Valentine’s Day.

Willamette Valley Vineyards Whole Cluster Fermented Pinot Noir 2008

Fact: This is the first wine to list the resveratrol level on the label. What’s resveratrol? It’s a phytoalexin in wine that’s said to reduce blood sugar levels while being a cancer figther and an anti-inflammatory, according to Wikipedia. In other words, it could be good for you. It certainly is good for your palate, thanks for a heady aroma of cranberry, raspberry and wild strawberry as well as a touch of smoke. The flavors again make you think of tart red fruits from cranberry to pomegranate, leading to a bright finish.

Feeling: From the moment the first sip was poured, this wine was ready to drink, though it evolved nicely in the glass over time. Great Pinot flavors were evident, making it perfect with turkey or pork roast. Elegant and light-bodied, it is youthful and lively, the perfect complement to lighten up heavier fare.

Finding the right wines to serve at Thanksgiving is never an easy task. You have to start with what you’re serving.

Get beyond the turkey and look at your side dishes. Are you having candied yams and a sweet cranberry relish? Mashed potatoes and stuffing? Green bean casserole? All of the above?

Each of those foods calls for a separate wine, so you may want to have a couple of glasses on the table or offer a couple of wines to suit people’s tastes.

With the candied yams and the relish, both loaded with sugar, you’ll want a sweeter wine, something like a Riesling or a Gewürztraminer from Washington state. That’s because your wine should always be sweeter than the food you’re pairing it with or the wine will taste shrill and bitter. Hogue Cellars and its sister label, Genesis, make fine examples of both starting at about $10 a bottle.

Hogue Cellars Riesling

If your plate will be filled more with roast turkey, mashed potatoes and a not-too-herbal stuffing, then think about a Chardonnay or a Burgundy (either white or red, but not California’s “hearty Burgundy” out of a jug). The bold flavors of these wines will bolster the meal without clobbering it into submission.

An elegant Pinot Noir, with plenty of acid, is supremely food friendly. Fine examples of this can also be costly. But, we like the 12 Clones Pinot Noir from Morgan, which runs in the $20s. If you want to spend more, Morgan has a line of single-vineyard Pinots as well, each equally stunning.

Another red suggestion could be a Rhone blend, either from France or the United States. These are lighter bodied wines that won’t clobber your dinner with its brashness. Llano Estacado Signature from Texas is a fine example of this at a reasonable price of about $10 a bottle.

There are many lighter-styled reds that are very good matches with giblet gravy or a gorgeous goose. Inexpensive Spanish Tempranillo or Garnacha, Chilean or New Zealand Pinot Noir, Beaujolais Villages, and even Italian Montipulciano reds can slip right into your Thanksgiving dinner beautifully.

Cool, refreshing rosé certainly pair well with many Thanksgiving favorites. The acid cuts through the sauce of the green bean casserole and gives turkey a little pick-me-up. Plenty of youthful rosés from the southern hemisphere have begun appearing in the market now, with the Mulderbosch Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon ($12-$16) being a perennial standout. Also, be sure you’re purchasing a dry rose — white Zinfandels and other blush wines will be sweeter.  (So, maybe have those with the candied yams!)

If you have to have Cabernet Sauvignon, especially a big one in the California style, then feel free to do so. But think about serving it after dinner, so you can enjoy the wine on its own and be thankful for every drop in your glass. Remember, these wines are more geared to go with beef than turkey. Serving one will only help disguise all the flavors of what you’re eating.

If there is one ubiquitous wine for the multifarious dishes on the Thanksgiving table, it might be the most logical choice for a celebration: sparkling wine. Champagne, Cava, Prosecco, all sparkling wines and all worth exploring. An off-dry Prosecco like Zardetto often sells for $10-$15, while the ever-reliable Domaine Ste. Michelle series from Washington state sells in the same price range. We recently judged a wine competition where both the Korbel Brut Rosé and the Korbel Blanc de Noirs (very light rose color) took top prizes. These are under $15.

You could also use a less-expensive sparkler in the following Thanksgiving-inspired cocktail, the Relish: Mix 1/2 ounce cranberry juice and 1 ounce orange juice in a Champagne flute. Top with chilled sparkling wine. Serve.

Bonnie Walker and Cecil Flentge contributed to this article.

Melka Winery Métisse 2006

Fact: A sushi bar might be the last place you’d expect to be enjoying a bold Napa Valley proprietary red wine.  But I was at Godai, where the proprietor, Goro Pitchford, not only has a good wine list but now and then brings out a taste of something special.

While I don’t seek out big, expensive proprietary reds from California, as a rule, I don’t turn down something another wine lover is excited about, either.  This wine was Melka Winery’s 2006 Métisse, a proprietary blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petite verdot from the Napa County region. (Online vendors still have it in stock; the prices are around $110.)

The nose gives you more than a hint of the rich,  complex fruit flavors to come. The color is a deep, dense purple-tinged red. This is a powerful wine, with flavors of chocolate, dark plums, black raspberries and something floral, perhaps lilac or violet. The oak does not overpower; the tannins, while certainly present and providing the needed structure in such an intense young wine, are smooth and restrained.

Feeling: I was having a teriyaki rib-eye, so the wine and steak did not argue. But I found myself pushing away the plate to just enjoy the wine. If I were to invest some money to buy this wine by the bottle, I’d buy two; one to enjoy now and another to enjoy, say, 10-15 years from now. The Métisse 2006  should age beautifully.

Nautilus Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008

Fact: New Zealand is known for producing Sauvignon Blanc that is full of bright fruit flavors reminiscent of grapefruit, gooseberry and passion fruit. Aromas of the latter dominate this wine almost to the exclusion of anything else. That’s not a bad thing at all. It’s so fragrant that it draws you back continually for more. On the tongue, bright citrus acidity and melon flavors mingle, leading to a clean finish. $13 a bottle.

Feeling: This is summertime in a glass, which is fine with me as our evenings flirt with autumn. On a recent rainy night, this wine was crisp and lively, an escape from what surrounded us. Pair it with pumpkin bisque or seafood with a cream sauce for a pleasant contrast. Or match it with a goat cheese salad with peppery arugula and fresh figs, and watch the wine provide the missing link to what could become a perfect opening course or light dinner.

Simi Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2006

Fact: The cool climate of California’s Russian River Valley is ideal for producing a Chardonnay that will remind you of fall flavors, from spiced apple to poached pear with just enough butteriness to please. The acid structure is strong yet not overwhelming, reminiscent of baked lemon. A well-balanced oak element adds richness. $20 a bottle.

Feeling: As the fall weather comes on, turn to a full-bodied Chardonnay that will keep you warm yet invigorated. Pair this is with lobster or firm-fleshed fish. This is a whdite wine that also works like a red, pairing well with pork and even some lamb dishes.

St. Clement Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Fact: Napa Valley is known for producing excellent cabernet sauvignon that’s full of bold fruit flavors while being elegant on the tongue. In this case, a little age has helped integrate both aspects into a smooth, satisfying whole. The hypnotic nose is full of fruit aromatics (cherry, current) and vanilla spice. Soft tannins let it slide over the tongue to a silky, fruity finish. A little merlot and cabernet franc offer excellent structure, support and a greater depth of flavors, from cocoa powder to cherry cola. The current vintage, 2006, sells for about $32 a bottle.

Feeling: Get the grill heated up and get out a New York strip.  This baby calls for a hunk o’ meat. Let the wine evolve in the glass, and let your sense of relaxation follow suit.

McPherson Cellars Texas Viognier 2008

Fact: Texas is known for producing some fine viogniers, and this one from McPherson Cellars in Lubbock is at the top of the heap. A crisp, clean wine with plenty of fruit flavors and a screwcap, it is full-bodied without being oily or unctuous.  Aromas of pear and apricot give way to bright acid on the tongue. Cost is $14 a bottle.

Feeling: Cut through the rest of the summer heat with a wine that’s bright and refreshing, yet sturdy enough to stand up to fall fare, such as pumpkin ravioli or corn chowder.  I’ve had several bottles of this over the past few months, and each has been a delight.

Banfi Centine Bianco 2008

Centine (pronounced chen-tin-ay) has long been Banfi’s affordable red wine blend, a lively mix of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Now, a white version has appeared at a retail of about $13.

Fact: This blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay has just the right blend of citrus with notes of apricot and herbs. It also has a clean, bright finish that will have you reaching for more.

Feeling: The crispness of this wine makes it perfect pool juice — bright and uncomplicated — but it’s also good accompaniment to roast chicken or main course salads, something we’ve been eating a lot in this perpetual heat. You may not be whisked off to a tropical isle, but you might just find yourself relaxing in your own home a little more. In a word, refreshing.

Louis Latour Meursault-Blagny Chateau de Blagny 2006

This white burgundy is from the Cote-d’Or, part of the larger wine region of Burgundy.  Burgundy is popularly known for red wines, based on Pinot Noir grapes, but is one of the best areas for Chardonnay, the grape of choice for white Burgundy.

Fact:  Vibrant yellow straw color and good clarity.  Faint aroma of pineapple precedes the apple-pear and toast that dominates.  Ripe apple and tart minerality initially hit the palate before the luscious pear and vanilla-oak take over and carry to the finish.  Definitely decant; it took 45 minutes for this wine to show its full range of flavors.  This is available locally for $50-60 and will continue to delight for several years.

Feelings:  As soon as it hit the glass, the glittering and bright colors fascinated.  “Some enchanted evening, you may see a stranger …” The heady aromas are just seductive.  “And somehow you know, you know even then …” The aromas start with apple pie and a grilled pineapple nearby, wafting fragrances around you.  “When you find your true love …” The flavors are of a picnic in an orchard with sunshine warming the freshly cut fruit.  “Then fly to her side, and make her your own …”