Troy Knapp is executive chef at the Hyatt Hill Country Resort, including Antlers Lodge. He’s also a Certified Sommelier and Certified Specialist of Wine. His column, Spectacular Brilliance, appears monthly on SavorSA.

By Troy Knapp

Troy Knapp

Thanksgiving and other memorable holiday dinners are priceless, so, for Pete’s sake, don’t skimp on the wine!

To save a few dollars in these occasions that are few and far between would be, in my opinion, the wrong place.  Yes, great wines come with a cost, however I’m sure, you will discover the extra money is well worth it.   For these rare holiday occasions when friends and family come together, why not seek out something truly special that will enhance the experience?

When making holiday selections, quality always overrules quantity! I’ll never understand the fixation with buying cheap food or wine.  This is the one area in life that I’m not willing to skimp. Quality comes with a cost and requires you to seek it out.  “The best you can afford,” is a great motto to live by.  Conscious food is what we need to strive toward, as it not only tastes better, it is significantly better for the environment as well as our health.  So, when it comes to the Thanksgiving table, look for all-natural turkey, lots of beautiful, organic vegetables and of course, great wine!

Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Gamay (Beaujolais) are frequently purchased to accompany the Thanksgiving table as they have a good relation with the traditional dishes we all love.  There are a wide variety of these wines, so beware of some common misconceptions.  You can easily find many of these wines in the “$10 and less category” that will be quaffable, however, they pale in comparison to what these varietals can offer.

Riesling  is quite an amazing grape variety; ranging from common and unexciting wine to truly extraordinary examples that are very well respected in the world of wine aficionados.  Grand Cru Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Sylvaner and Pinot Gris (known as Tokay) from Alsace in France are all great options for Thanksgiving dinner.

The wines of Alsace France are typically full bodied and dry where as the sweeter styles hail from Germany and the residual sugar is wonderfully contrasted with bracing acidity.  These wines typically start in the $40- $60 price range and can be found at a specialty grocer or wine shop.  Germany has a complex system of classification and reading the label can be intimidating.  A little research, or simply asking for assistance in the wine shop, will go a long way in finding your selection.

Beaujolais Nouveau is released every year on the third Thursday of November.  This wine is readily on display at most markets and meant to be consumed young. However, I recommend you seek out premium bottling of Beaujolais from one of the ten specific village/sites that have been awarded Cru status. “Cru” is a French term that refers to “growth place,” so wines from certain “Cru” regions have strict standards that result in depth and complexity not found in common Beaujolais bottling.  Ask for Morgon [moor - gah] or Moulin au Vent [moo-lahn-ah-vah].  Both of these bottlings typically start in the $30 price range.

Pinot Noir pairs rather well at the Thanksgiving table, and Premier Cru or Grand Cru Red Burgundies are simply spectacular.  Pinot Noir from Germany and New Zealand are not as abundant, however, both are well worth tracking down. Both options are much lighter than their California counterparts and showcase the delicate and lighter side of Pinot Noir. For something in the middle try Oregon Pinot Noir.  It is readily available and shares a common elegance as other cool climate pinots.  This region offers characteristics between the earth-driven wines of Burgundy, France and the fruit-driven Pinots of California.  A great choice for a group of diverse palates.

Regardless of your selection, quality should be the focus and will certainly be worthy of a few extra bucks.

My most memorable dining experiences are those with special friends and family, enjoying conversation over great wine.   My wife and I will always remember a few specific bottles that we shared long ago.  They were supported by great ambience and hold a place in our memories.  We look forward to drinking these same wines on special occasions, especially during the holidays; just as hearing a piece of music can bring us to a certain place in time, wine shares a similar relation.   Pulling a cork from a special bottle is like opening a time capsule, our senses connect with memories and thoughts are re-lived.

So seek out that special bottle.  It’s a small price for lasting memories.

From my family to yours, in health and happiness, have a happy Thanksgiving.

By Cecil Flentge

The San Antonio Stock Show and Rodeo is still a few months away,  but this past Monday 44 judges reviewed 686 wines to decide the gold, silver and bronze winners for the 2012 Wine Garden.

As a wine judge for each of the two previous competitions I was impressed at the friendly, but very professional, organization of this latest event.

For a list of winning wines, click here.

As the volunteers have improved, so have the wines.  I was told that 30 percent of the wines entered would retail for $30 or more.  That shows wineries and distributors are taking the Rodeo competition as seriously as the athletes and exhibitors do in their respective competitions.

I was part of the judging team at one of the nine tables arranged to divide the tasks.  My team tried 11 different groups of wine, almost 80 wines total, yet we only tried wines from seven categories – less than 12  percent of the wines entered.

The good news for me, and for consumers following the rankings, is the wines were better overall.  The top wines were very good, as they usually are, but even wines that did not receive a medal were pleasant.  This again reflects the status that the Stock Show and Rodeo has developed for the Wine Garden.

The Wine Garden is in its third year and will offer for sale the 38 gold medal wines by the taste, the glass or the bottle.

Judges sniff and ponder a white wine category in Monday's Stock Show & Rodeo Competition.

There is also the Champion Wine Auction where you can bid on the celebrated wines.  The funds from this and the Wine Garden fund scholarships for Texas youth.  Some of the scholarships are specifically designated toward viticulture for students attending Texas colleges and universities with programs supporting viticulture.

Awards and scholarships for this year will add more than 300 new scholars to the program.  Currently, there are more than 1,600 active scholarship recipients from the Rodeo in 90 colleges and universities throughout Texas.

Judges were selected from the wine business including distributors, restaurants, and a couple of wine writers.  There were also a few experienced wine aficionados to represent the local consumers.

In the process of determining the winners, the judges used 3,500 glasses to taste wines from 173 American wineries from Texas, California, Oregon and Washington.  Moving that much glassware is a big task and it was accomplished by the over 90 wine committee volunteers who were constantly bringing glasses, removing glasses, washing glasses and refilling glasses.  Salute to them!

Raise a glass at the rodeo to support scholarships.  The San Antonio Stock Show and Rodeo will run Feb. 9-26, 2012.

Cecil Flentge is a San Antonio wine educator for professionals or novices and a cooking instructor. Restaurant events or home tastings.  Questions? Email cecil@wine2you.com.

Lange Estate Winery and Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2009

Fact: Lange Estate uses Pinot Noir grapes from all over its vineyards to make this wine, which has been bottled with a screw cap.

Twist it open and pour a taste into your glass. The garnet color, translucent in the glass, is what you’ll notice first. Then welcome bright red fruit on the nose with a small touch of earth and cocoa powder.

One taste will fill your mouth with the flavors of Bing cherries and ripe raspberries, cranberries, a hint of warm spices, with both earthy and mineral qualities in the mix, all of which give the wine a lush quality that’s filtered by the elegance that is a hallmark of good Pinot Noir. The finish lingers with a silky whisper.

Though two years old, this Oregon wine seemed a little young and tight upon opening, so you may want to let it air a bit.

The wine sells for about $17 a bottle at Costco.

Feeling:It’s hard to describe how a good Oregonian Pinot Noir makes you feel, other than happy. That’s the gift this wine imparts while there’s still some in the bottle.

Have it with stuffed mushrooms or pork meatballs and let that little giddy feeling continue.

For best results, chill this down to about 55 to 60 degrees (French cellar temperature and the correct temperature for all Pinot Noirs, if not all red wines). Then enjoy.

By Cecil Flentge

You’ve loved it on Italian menus, and maybe even made it yourself. Now that the weather shows a slim promise of cooling, let’s talk about a  hearty Italian stew.

Meaty veal shanks are the main ingredient in osso buco.

Ossobuco or osso buco (sometimes seen as “bucco”) is Italian for “bone with a hole” (osso bone, buco hole) or “marrowbone”, both a reference to the marrow hole at the center of the cross-cut veal shank.

The original version is ‘ossobuco in bianco’ (Osso Buco with White Sauce), which does not use tomatoes. Then there are many modern versions that do use tomatoes, simply called Osso Buco. But time marches on and it is now quite common to find this dish made with pork shanks (whole or cross-cut), lamb shanks or cross-cut legs of beef or venison.  There is even a movie named Osso Buco.

No matter how you approach it, Osso Buco is the ‘black tie and tails’ version of a pot roast, so it is easy to do though it takes some time.

Osso Buco with Tomatoes, Olives and Gremolata (Recipe)

But what wine?  So many will work, both white and red, and it does vary with the type of Osso Buco.  No matter what country a recipe originates, you will find the same countries wines will be a safe bet.  All of these wines will make you happy with your Osso Buco, as well-matched wine and food always will — so on with the Italians!

La Maia Lina Chianti Classico, Tuscany 2008:
The little pig on the label does not tell you ‘buy me’, but you should.  CostCo for $11.

Fact: Sangiovese is the primary grape for Chianti and this medium red-colored example shows why they never will change.  A ripe cherry nose with cedar and a whiff of raspberries.  The palate echoes the cherry, blended with a ripe plum, and enough tangy acidity to keep it all fresh.  After it has been open 30 minutes you get a little aroma of black raspberry jam.  The finish trails a bit with cherry, mineral and plum.

Feelings: This is why I like drinking wine.  You can open this one and have a glass while you cook your Osso Buco, while you dine, while you clean up, and relaxing with a book before bedtime.  If you follow this outline you will probably be ready for bedtime!

Sasso al Poggio, from Piccini winery, Tuscany 2004
The 2004 is the current vintage of this ‘Super Tuscan’ offered at CostCo for $13.  An excellent opportunity to see how wines develop with some age.

Fact:  Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet bring the red color, age brings the caramelized pear color, and together they made a lovely brick red.  Vibrant cherry, plum, and wild strawberry on the nose with smoky, earthy undertones.  Cherry, mushrooms and an almost meaty component blends with toasty notes for your palate.  Deep black cherry served on wood-baked bread linger with the minerality on the finish.

Feelings:  Use the good china and polish the silver.  Drag out that tablecloth and light some candles, open the wine a few minutes before you serve that rich and fragrant dish.  Let the wine tell you stories of Italy, the scent of wild oregano and the statues hidden in marble, as you dine.

Ramitello, Biferno, from Di Majo Norante 2008
From the Molise region, about 200 miles east of Rome.  Super value for $11 at CostCo.

Fact: Dark garnet red in color, there is black cherry with a touch of aged woodpile in the enticing aroma.  Tasting brings forth cherry, coffee, mineral-earth and a bit of green Poblano pepper. The acidity works well to keep the wine interesting and the finish leaves you with dried cherries and coffee.

Feeling: This wine demands attention.  It is like your friend that you have spirited conversations with over dinner, you look forward to the experience.

Ruffino, Modus, Tuscany 2006 
Another of the ‘Super Tuscans’ with Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet available for $20.

Fact: An attractive and dramatic label enfolds a dark red wine from a well known winery.  Dark cherry, graphite, and cedar were pleasantly presented in the aroma with earthy accent.  The first taste repeated the cherry and cedar while later there was more of the minerally graphite and a little vegetal seasoning.  Tannins were chewy in this full-bodied red, but all were balanced.  One note is to decant this wine twice before serving to awaken the scents and flavors.  Alternatively, buy a couple and put them away for two or three years to see how it matures.

Feeling: Somewhat akin to petting a tiger.  You can feel the warmth and see the beauty, yet the power is still leashed.  Be patient, it will relax as you do.

Caparzo, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 1998 
Locally, the 2004 vintage is available at Gabriels Superstore for $49 and is rated as highly as the 1998, though it may be more approachable after 2012.

Fact: When first opened there was a toast, black cherry, dried strawberry nose.  A few minutes later that was joined by warm red soil and raked Fall leaves.  The flavors of red berries, soft tannins, and rich minerals coat your palate.  It stays rich and flavorful through the finish, the cherry blending with espresso and chocolate.

Feeling: Ah, your favorite Aunt that always told those wonderful stories!  That is what this wine mimics as it tells different stories to your palate and nose, weaving its magic into your dinnertime, sorely missed when it has gone.

Cecil Flentge is a San Antonio wine educator for professionals or novices and a cooking instructor. Restaurant events or home tastings.  Questions? Email cecil@wine2you.com

Nichole Bendele, left, of Becker Vineyards, pours wine for sampling.

By Cecil Flentge

Texas Wine Month got a head start Thursday with a series of tastings, dinners, and seminars in Dallas, Houston, Austin and San Antonio.

In San Antonio, panelists at the Pearl, for the Texas Hill Country Wine Roadshow,  joined their counterparts in the other cities as they met with wine professionals, business people and wine aficionados. No surprise: Their focus was all about the the ripening quality of wine from the Texas Hill Country AVA (American Viticultural Area).

During a seminar at the Pearl Studio, a panel discussed some history of the progress and development of wines in the Hill Country, as well as their goals and aspirations for the future.

Dr. Richard Becker

Dr. Richard Becker, of Becker Vineyards, one of the pioneering winemakers in the Texas Hill Country, outlined the process of trying many grape varietals to find what works with the climate and soil.  He used an example of single vineyard wines as part of the refinement in their experimentation, showing the differences in flavor and complexity of wines from neighboring areas.

When questioned, Becker stated that factor may define smaller AVAs in the future.  This is a slow process, but part of Becker’s goal is to “make wines that will compete on the world stage.”

This determined attitude was echoed by Dr. Robert Young, of Bending Branch Winery in his presentation “In Search of the Hill Country Wine Zone”.  He spoke about different soil compositions and the need to site the vineyards carefully, with higher altitude being the key to success.  “We are all trying to find the sweet spot, the right place with the right grape.”

None know this better, though sadly in hindsight, than Sabrina Hauser, of Dry Comal Creek Vineyard.  She was speaking for her father and winemaker, Franklin Hauser, and outlined the initial successes Dry Comal Creek had before Pierce’s Disease laid waste to their vines.  Pierce’s is carried by the Glassy-winged Sharpshooter.

But, that experience prompted the Hausers to “cowboy up” and find a way around the problem.  Their vineyards are at a lower altitude that is much more prone to this pest, so they looked for other grapes that could resist the disease. They found a great one in a variety called Black Spanish. Now, they have planted Black Spanish grapevines (aka Lenoir, Jacquez) which are thriving. The latest harvest brought in record tonnage.

This grape has a venerable history. It goes back at least 150 years in Texas and it was already thriving when Val Verde Winery was established in 1883, outside of Del Rio.

Hauser also offered a unified theme of improving Texas wines:  She referred to the 1976 tasting that pitted California wines versus French wines as dramatized in the movie “Bottle Shock”.  “The goal is to be in a ‘Bottle Shock’ tasting, but with Texas wines,” she said.

Lofty goals and hard work may be paying off for the 30 wineries in the Texas Hill Country AVA.  In the most recent quarter, national wine magazines Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast have had multiple articles about the Hill Country.  Checking the Wine Spectator’s online rating lists, Texas wines were found with ratings from 85 to 90 on their 100-point scale, ratings that wineries anywhere would be proud to receive.

So is it time to try Texas wines again?  Sampling wines offered at the seminar. I found Tempranillo, Tannat, and Grenache-based red wines that were delightful.  More of the same delight was to be had with white wines from Viognier, Rousanne, and a bright and tangy Picpoul, which may be the perfect match for Gulf oysters.

So, yes, Texas wines are developing well — and as the vines mature, so will the wine.

For more information about Texas Wine Month activities in the Texas Hill Country, click here.

By Cecil Flentge

In San Antonio, we tend to make our barbecue with rich seasoning and a healthy touch of smoke.  There are many variations and techniques, but it really gets down to just one seasoning touch when matching wine and barbecue.

Sweet.

Maybe it’s sweet from the local honey that is added to the sauce, or the agave nectar that is the secret ingredient, or the cup of brown sugar that is part of the dry rub, but there is a sweetness.  This is where we often find confusion when making wine selections.  If you take a bite of a good brisket sandwich with a little barbecue sauce on it and then take a sip of a dry (opposite of sweet) California Chardonnay, the wine will taste sour.  Imagine eating a praline for dessert and then a grape.  The grape would taste sour because your tongue is still comparing it to the super sweet praline.

The same thing happens in matching wine and food in general — or barbecue and wine specifically.  The wine needs to be as sweet as, or a little-sweeter than, the food you are pairing it with.  Here are a few wines that can complement your ‘cue.

Chateau Ste. Michelle, Riesling, Washington 2010

This one has been in the market for a decade or more, but for $7 at Target, it is a great value.

Fact: A light apple-lemon nose.  Crisp, Granny Smith apple flavors with a citrus finish.

Feeling: Relax and enjoy.  This is a friendly wine that will clear the palate between bites of a Carolina tangy, mustard-barbecued chicken.

Oveja Negra (Black Sheep), Reserva, Maule Valley, Chile 2010

This is a white wine, or is it a white rosé?  The combination of Sauvignon Blanc grapes (white wine) with Carmenere grapes (red wine) would make you think it would be a rosé, but it is not.  Still, there are some ‘not-white’ flavors in this $8 wine from CostCo.

Fact: A tropical fruit, melon, and tart cherry nose.  Tropical fruit flavors with a steely mineral seasoning and still a hint of the cherry flowing into a slightly off-dry finish.

Feeling: Sitting in the shade at the picnic table with slices of dry rubbed, smoked brisket displaying the red line inside the crusty edge.  No sauce, just a juicy bite, followed by the cold ambrosia of the wine, keeping you cool and ready for the evening.

 Black Opal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Australia 2009

This is a familiar label that I had not tried in a few years, $8 at HEB.  Australia has had even more trouble with drought than we have in San Antonio.  The silver lining is that this can make for some very concentrated grapes, as demonstrated here.

Fact: A fragrant bouquet of blackcurrant, mint and spice gives way to black cherry and red berry fruit flavors.  Only a little sweetness on the finish but the overall fruity richness lingers.

Feeling:  The ribs are ready and you have been waiting for this all day.  You take a sip of wine, chilled for thirty minutes in the refrigerator, it tastes like chilled blackberries.  Let the feast begin!

Renwood, BBQ Zinfandel, California 2006

Renwood has a long history of making very good Zinfandels and Cabernets.  But finding one for $9.99 at H-E-B and with enough age to mellow, well, that is great!

Fact: Blackberry and cherry aromas that developed over a half hour.  A lighter color than some Zins, but full of red and black fruit flavors with nutmeg and star anise woven throughout.  A smooth finish of blackberry and coffee on the finish with only mild tannins – a benefit of the age of the wine.

Feeling: The name was a direct challenge.  If the wine was for BBQ, then I had to make some barbecue.  I mixed up a rub, slathered it on some pork chops, put them on the smoker for about twenty minutes, and poured some wine. Oh yeah, teamwork is great!

Freixenet, Carta Nevada Semi-dry Cava, Spain, NV

Spanish sparklers are always a value and this black label example is true to form.  Sold almost everywhere for $9-10, it has soft bubbles and a rich flavor.

Fact: Overripe apple/pear packed into fresh baked bread jumps from the glass to announce this wine.  Light apple and peach flavors with a hint of lemon and a fruity finish.

Feeling: Pop!  The sound of the cork heralds good times ahead.  In Texas, barbecue is a celebration of our heritage. Spain was part of that heritage so bring on the Spanish bubbly!  Sparkling wine makes anything special and you are worth it!

Troy Knapp

By Troy Knapp

The process of winemaking, essentially, is quite simple; these miraculous berries almost ferment themselves, with their natural yeast on the outside and the sugars and juice on the inside. When simply crushed, the elements combine and under the right environment can produce something that is mysterious and seductive.

Such a simple process, and the end result can yield extreme complexity in the glass. “Notes of caramel, butterscotch and honey with hints of orange blossom and baking spices, minerality and tropical fruit backed by racy acidity and a long finish that is dry on the palate” — that’s why it’s wine for me. Don’t get me wrong, a hand-crafted beer or cocktail can be quite delicious; however, wine is unique and its relation to food unparalleled.

The more I’ve learned about wine, the more I was seduced: intrigued to a level of excessiveness. As a chef, I felt this was crucial in the pursuit of a heightened experience. It was clear to me, that even if I perfected a dish, it is void of its overall pinnacle that only wine could provide. It was the theory of 1 + 1 = 3. I needed to know more. I started studying and, of course, tasting, quite a bit! Homework has never been so much fun. I had been in the hotel business for 20 years and had always enjoyed a great glass of wine. I had cooked for my fair share of winemaker dinners, lived close to the Central Coast wine region in California, which I visited regularly.

For all intents and purposes, I thought I was pretty well versed on wine. All that changed when I sat in a Las Vegas classroom with the Court of Master Sommeliers for the level one exam. Two days of high intensity lectures, blind tastings and service skills, all culminated with a theory exam that shook me up pretty good. I passed; however, at that moment I realized that although I had been around wine in a fairly high capacity for years, I had never truly actively studied it. If I wanted to learn and delve deeper into my passion I would have take this seriously and dedicate myself to a strict study regimen. There were doubts. Where would I fit this in to my already crazy life of being an executive chef, where a 65- to 70-hour work week was considered normal and still be a good spouse and a dedicated father to my two young children? My wife was extremely supportive and truly became my coach. I worked like crazy to absorb as much as I could to prepare for the next step.

Flash-forward one year later and I was on a flight to Seattle for the level two certification exam from the Court of Master Sommeliers. Everything I had worked for over the course of the previous year came down to one day of testing. The countless hours of studying, blind tasting and absorbing paid off; I passed the exam and was able to return home with the title of Certified Sommelier. Studying and tastings are now a routine part of my life and continued education will always be important in my passion for food and wine.

Wine pairing can be simple or complex, it all depends on how deep you want to go. A few common “safe” rules can take you far and faithfully deliver a consistent result. However, by delving deeper and taking a leap of faith, you just may create an experience of sheer and spectacular brilliance. This column will explore food and wine pairing possibilities, but more so, inspire you to go outside your comfort zone in the effort to create memorable and lasting experiences.

As the actor W.C. Fields said, “I cook with wine. Sometimes I even add it to the food.” Cheers!

Troy Knapp is executive chef at the Hyatt Hill Country Resort, including Antlers Lodge. He’s also a Certified Sommelier and Certified Specialist of Wine. 

Chill this rosé down until it fogs up the glass when you pour it.

2010 Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé

Fact: I have written about this wine for several years now, but I think the latest vintage may be the best yet. Either that, or the excessively high heat has made an icy cold glass too refreshing to resist. (Both are true in my book.)

This South African beauty is something of an anomaly among rosés. Its color is almost Kool-Aid red-pink, like something out of a comic book, and it’s made from Cabernet Sauvignon, instead of more popular rosé grapes, such as Pinot Noir, Sangiovese or Grenache.

But its aromas and flavors are truly serious. Chill this wine down and get ready for a blast of wild strawberry and pomegranate aromas to shoot from the glass, followed by flavors of watermelon, tart cherry and a touch of green herb on the palate.

Grill up some steaks with a touch of lime juice on them or burgers with a spicy mayo, and enjoy.

It’s not easy to find Mulderbosch in San Antonio. The wine rep at one H-E-B claimed he hasn’t been able to get it for three years, yet I found it at another H-E-B, the one on Thousand Oaks, for an attractive $10.99 a bottle. I’ve also seen it at Spec’s, Twin Liquors and several Gabriel’s stores in the past.

Feeling: This is a wine that loves anything that sings of summer, from vine-ripened tomatoes with a touch of dill weed to grilled portobello mushrooms to crab cakes. So, forget what the thermometer says and sink back with a summer quaffer that’s practically perfect.

If you want to learn more about rosé wine, join Richard Becker, Steven Krueger, Bonnie Walker and me, among others, at Culinaria’s Rambling Rosé this Saturday at Becker Vineyards in Fredericksburg. This event is one that each of us has called our favorite of the entire year. So, join us for some terrific wines, wonderful food and, we hope, good talk. For more information, click here.

By Cecil Flentge

Some people talk of beverages to ‘beat the heat’ this time of year.  That is a battle this Texas boy knows he can’t win, so I will settle for achieving a comfortable co-existence.  These are five white wines I have recently enjoyed drinking and pairing with food.

Italo Cescon, Pinot Grigio, Veneto, Italy 2010

A light, delicious choice for a shrimp salad or simply sipping.

The story on the back of the bottle talks of grandma tying a bit of grapevine on the bottle to show the connection to the vineyard.  That is cute and makes the label distinctive, but the wine would speak for itself.

Fact: Clean peach and raisin nose with a slight tart quality keeping the even flavors lively.  A satisfying and appropriately short finish.

Feeling: This is the ‘go to’ wine for cooling down and wakening your taste buds for dinner.  Maybe a cold and spicy shrimp salpicon salad with the chilled shrimp, a little crumbled cotija cheese, the crisp lettuce and peppers, and those spicy chopped jalapeños — um, um, good! CostCo Liquors has this wine for $10.

Willow Crest, Pinot Gris, Yakima Valley, Washington 2009

While Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio is the same grape, the styles of wine can be very far apart.  Available at CostCo for $10.

Fact: Orange and lime are the first aromas blending into grapefruit and nectarine that continue and delight the tongue.  The balanced acidity finishes out with mineral, orange and melon.

Feeling:  Broiled halibut with julienned red jalapeños, shallots and lime in a butter sauce and a cold glass of Pinot Gris to share with my favorite woman in the whole world.

L.A.Cetto, Chenin Blanc, Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California, Mexico 2009

Apple, mineral and more in this cool Chenin Blanc.

Even with our proximity to Mexico, we do not see many wines from our southern neighbor despite their 350 years of winemaking experience.  So when I ran across this gem in ‘my’ H-E-B, I had to give it a try.  At $10, it wasn’t too big a risk and now I will have to go back and try the L.A. Cetto Cabernet Sauvignon.

Fact:  Beautiful and generous nose of nectarine, mineral-salt, served with sun ripened limón.  The nectarine continues on the palate blending with apple, mineral, and finishing with dried apricot. Just a tiny bit off-dry, serve very cold.

Feeling:  Pulling a dripping bottle of this wine out of a cooler as I sit near the shore in the late afternoon.  Maybe it is time for another apricot?

Stellina, Prosecco, Veneto, Italy

More like Champagne than Asti Spumante, Prosecco is a great value.  This wine is available at Don’s & Ben’s, Whole Foods, and World Market for about $15.

Fact:  Apple, peach, and toast on the nose with good acidity and a bit of peach flavor, this could almost be a sparkling Sauvignon Blanc.

Feeling:  Reward yourself for just being you!  Pour some bubbly and watch the stars float up in your glass as you have some chicken fajitas.

Roux Pere & Fils, Pouilly Fuisse, Burgundy, France 2009

A find: Chardonnay with low oak.

Once a darling of Chardonnay drinkers, it has been lost and found, a rich Chardonnay with low oak.  This can be found at CostCo for around $11.

Fact:  Ripe apple with honey-oak on the nose.  More apples and a pear or two with oak and a soft touch of mineral for the palate.  Smooth on the tongue and enough acidity to keep it from clinging.

Feeling:  It does not demand that you pay attention to it, you just go ahead and enjoy yourself.  This is the drink for popcorn, Cornish hens, or broiled sea bass.

Cecil Flentge is a San Antonio wine educator for professionals or novices and a cooking instructor. Restaurant events or home tastings.
Questions? Email cecil@wine2you.com

By Cecil Flentge

Don’t think that all wines for summer have to be white, rosé or even light-bodied. Here are some good, year ’round red wines that are good for sipping, but also for having with barbecue or grilled meats, tomato sauces and Texas chili.

Georges Duboeuf, Julienas Cru Beaujolais, ‘Chateau des Capitans’ 2009

Beaujolais had a great year in 2009, showing the depth and variety that the Gamay grape can provide.  Around $18 at larger wine shops.

Fact: This is not a light wine, but it does have a little less tannin, making it very approachable even in its youth.  A floral nose with mineral-laced dark berries underneath, the ripe red fruits take control on the palate and lead you to a rich and lingering finish.  Serve well chilled.

Feeling: A lively mix of bright flavors to pair with pork chops simmered in a tomato sauce.  Taste the chilled fresh berries in the wine as you think about serving this again for Thanksgiving.

Delas, Saint-Esprit, Côtes-du-Rhône, France

South of Burgundy, North of Provence, this ancient wine region is a great value – great quality, every year.  This one is widely available and sells for less than $10 dollars in CostCo.

Fact: Plum and red fruit aromas with a soft touch of toasted oak.  The first sip brings ripe cherries, plums, and fresh plowed earth.  The flavors glide across your tongue since it has very low tannins and leaves you with a pleasant memory of the flavors.

Feeling: But what wine will I serve?  This Côtes-du-Rhône can be that answer for roast pork, grilled chicken, barbecue, or pizza.  Think of it as your “wine–lifeline,” the friend that never lets you down.

Becker, Reserve Merlot, Stonewall, Texas

This wine is a blend of grapes from the Hill Country and High Plains Vineyards.  Conveniently found at HEB for $13, this is different than the Texas wines you find on most restaurant wine lists.

Fact: Rich, ripe cherry nose with a moderate oak component.  Cherry and mineral flavors seasoned by the oak and High Plains minerality, this finishes smooth and is quite satisfying.

Feeling: Serving some Texas chili with this wine made a group I had together double take and ask lots of questions.  This one will stop the “Texas wine” jokes and make some converts.

Sister Creek, Red Blend, Sisterdale, Texas

This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sangiovese grapes as well as a good value at $16.

Fact: Structured, balanced, restrained.  Not words I would have expected from a Texas wine even a decade ago.  But the nose gives you cherry and a touch of mineral/graphite, with little wild strawberry in the background.  Medium weight, dry, earthy, and a good red berry palate leading to a soft finish.

Feeling: Pour the chilled wine from the bottle into a decanter and set it on the table.  Plate the lamb chops, broccolini, and roasted potatoes.  Call your honey to the table and pour a glass of wine for you both.  It just gets better from there.

Ed’s Smooth Red (Twin Springs), Tow, Texas

There are red grapes in this under $10 dollar wine, but they do not specify what they might be.  A related label for Fall Creek Winery.

Fact: This wine has an over-ripe, red berry and plum nose that would make you expect an amply sweet wine.  But the palate has rich red fruit, mineral and earth components, moderate tannins, and a little sweetness balanced by the acidity.  A surprisingly clean finish, serve cool.

Feeling: Bring out those dry-rubbed pork ribs, chile-infused pinto beans, and cold potato salad.  Pour a cool and fruit laden glass of Ed’s Smooth Red.  By the end of the glass, you will realize how they picked the name.

Cecil Flentge is a San Antonio wine educator for professionals or novices and a cooking instructor. Restaurant events or home tastings.
Questions? Email cecil@wine2you.com