By Troy Knapp

Troy Knapp is executive chef at the Hyatt Hill Country as well as a certified sommelier.

I will always remember the first time I had a truly remarkable and well-aged vintage port. The bottle I speak of was 36 years old and well taken care of. Pulling the cork was like opening a buried treasure and from the enormous amount of sediment in the bottle a beautiful purity emerged as it was decanted. The glasses were poured. I took my first sip. My first thought: “This is amazing, perfect, truly beautiful.” And after I took it all in, my second thought: “Damn! Where had this been? All this time, it had been missing from my life.”

Chardonnay, Cabernet or Merlot may be your loved one; however, they are not your spouse and will not be heartbroken if you experience different wines. The vast world of wine has much to be explored and the diversity is intriguing. Don’t be afraid to play the wine field a bit. One of two things will happen; you will find that absence has made the heart grow fonder or you’ll discover a new love. Regardless, the journey will be enjoyable, I promise you that. Here are a few tips while you allow your palate to gallivant around.

Put the sommelier to the test

Looking for wine can be intimidating. In the restaurant setting, the sommelier [saw-muh-LYAY]  can be a good ally to have. No sommelier? Ask for a wine steward or someone who knows the most about the selections offered. If the restaurant doesn’t seem to offer a good selection, stick to beer or cocktails. Don’t go looking for an experience where there is none.

A sommelier, wine steward or any industry professional truly wants to lead you in the right direction and to assist you in selecting a bottle that will align with your specific needs. That is his or her role. Be vocal. Let preferences be known along with what you are eating and your budget. Wine experts love a good challenge and will want to deliver the best experience for you; after all, their pride is on the line.

Sample around the wine world for a great many unique flavors.

Purchase for the season

Wines from a warm climate are typically richer, heavier and fuller in body than wines from a cool climate, which are lighter in body and have greater amounts of acidity. Drinking cool climate (refreshing) wines in the summer and adversely warm climate (richer) wines in the winter is a good seasonal approach, and can lead to a better experience.

Wine regions can be quite diverse. California, for example, has a range of climates varying from hot to very cool, based on their proximity to oceanic influence, elevation and a host of other factors. This can be a little confusing. An easier way to decipher if a wine is going to be full or light bodied and the climate it came from is to simply check the alcohol level on the bottle. I prefer wines with the alcohol of 13.5 percent and under in the summer and 14 percent and upwards in the cooler months.

Pursuing similar traits

Seek out unique varietals that may have similar traits to the wines you are familiar with. These general relations may steer you to something new:

• If you like California Napa Chardonnay you may like other full bodied whites such as Viognier, Fiano from Southern Italy or the fleshy (fuller) wines of Alsace, such as Pinot Gris.
• If you like Sauvignon Blanc, you may like Albariño from Spain, Grüner Veltliner from Austria or Pinot Grigio from North East Italy.
• If you like Pinot Noir, you may like Barbara d’ Asti from Piedmont Italy, Cru Beaujolais from Burgundy, Agiorghitiko from Greece.
• If you like California Cabernet Sauvignon, you may like Shiraz from Australia, Malbec from Argentina, Carmenere from Chile or Nero d’avola from Italy’s island of Sicily.

New World vs. Old World

If you like fruit-driven wines, purchase selections from the New World, such as California, Argentina, Chile, New Zealand and Australia. If you like earthier wines, seek out Old World selections, in other words, wines from traditional producers in France, Italy and Germany. Spain, Oregon and Washington state offer the best of both worlds and are known to offer traits that are reminiscent of the New and Old World wine-producing regions. They typically display generous fruit with an integration of earth or minerality.

Points and critics can cause confusion

Let’s face it, wine is quite subjective and with the world of facts, figures and opinions it can get rather convoluted. I usually take critics’ scores with a grain of salt when selecting wine. These common ratings are abundant on retail shelves, in magazines and on the Internet. In theory, a 90-point wine should be very good. Not always, I’ve had my fair share of highly rated wines that ended up disappointing me. The point system is fairly one-dimensional and doesn’t take into consideration several variables that should be considered when selecting wine. Time of year, temperature, personal preferences as well as what you may be eating are all important factors that the point system shows no consideration for. I feel these ratings are overly influential and frequently under deliver. Keep in mind that a critic’s score is merely one person’s opinion. Does this critic know what you like? And seriously, is there truly any good “one-size-fits-all” approach, let alone with something as personal as wine?

Remember, variety is the spice of life and while heading down the wine trail remember, the journey, as well as the destination, will most definitely be sure to reward. Enjoy!

Troy Knapp is executive chef at the Hyatt Hill Country and a certified sommelier.

Joe Fee holds a bottle of Fee Brothers Black Walnut Bitters.

It seemed inevitable that bitters would make a comeback. After too many years of ultra-sweet “Sex in the City”-induced cosmopolitans, a great many cocktail lovers are suffering from sugar shock.

Bitters offer a blessed balancing act, using herbs to temper a sweetness in some cocktails that all too often is cloying. It also is used as a digestif, said to settle the stomach. But the big plus of bitters is the way they add live and a greater depth of flavors to your cocktail.

Few people could be more excited about this interest than Joe Fee, whose family founded Fee Brothers four generations ago. The Rochester, N.Y.-based company makes a series of cocktail mixes, cordial syrups, brines and coffee flavors, but it is known to many for its vast array of bitters, which come in flavors, from cherry to mint.

Fee, who is in town for the inaugural San Antonio Cocktail Conference, knows that the resurgence of interest in old-fashioned, handcrafted cocktails has also boosted a renewed interest in bitters. And he’s here to spread of the gospel of what they can add to cocktails and cooking alike.

Lovers of cocktail recipe books, both old and new, know that many a libations writer cautions against using too much bitters in a drink. It’s good advice when you’re starting out and don’t know your own tastes, but it also helps to sample your drink and adjust the bitters until you get the desired result. It’s like adding salt and pepper to food. Some recipes call for more than a dash of salt. And there are cocktails that call for up to an ounce of bitters, Fee says.

“Everyone’s tastes are different,” he says.

The company’s top seller is Old Fashion Bitters, which Fee says is the equal of Angosturra, another well-known bitters, and a necessary ingredient in a Manhattan. It’s followed closely by orange bitters, a dash of which can make a dry martini even more perfect. Other flavors include peach, lemon, grapefruit, rhubarb and whiskey barrel-aged. This March, a gin barrel-aged orange bitters will be introduced.

But Joe Fee is more interested at the moment in another new addition: black walnut bitters, a flavor he developed himself. His sister, Ellen, who usually is in charge of development, took a pass because she’s allergic to walnuts.

One taste of the black walnut bitters is filled with a pleasing nuttiness as well as a spicy tone, a touch of cinnamon and, of course, vanilla, which Fee calls “the salt of the flavor world.” Add a dash or two to a good bourbon or tequila for added dimension, he recommends, or use it at a tiki party in everything from rum pineapple drinks  to tropically flavored food, especially pork dishes.

Each bottle of Fee Brothers bitters, which can be found at Spec’s and Twin Liquors among other local stores, comes hand-wrapped in paper, which gives the product a personal touch. It also makes the bottle look a little like Lea & Perrins Worcestershire Sauce. But the paper prevents the flavors from fading.  Bitters will never go bad, no matter how old the bottle is, Fee says, because of the alcohol in it.

The San Antonio Cocktail Conference continues through Sunday. For information, click here.

The following are a few cocktail recipes that use bitters:

Carte Blanche

3 cucumber wheels
1 1/2 parts Hendrick’s Gin, a cucumber gin
1/2 part fresh lime juice
1/2 part simple syrup
2 healthy dashes orange bitters
Brut sparkling wine

In a mixing glass, muddle two cucumber wheels. Add  gin, lime juice, simple syrup, bitters and ice. Shake well and double strain into a cocktail glass. Top with sparkling wine and garnish with the final cucumber.

Makes 1 cocktail.

Adapted from Hendrick’s Gin

Champagne Cocktail

1 lump sugar
Dash of Fee’s Old Fashion Bitters
2 ounces brut sparkling wine

Soak sugar cube with bitters. Place cube in champagne flute. Fill with sparkling wine. Garnish with a twist of lemon.

Makes 1 cocktail.

From FeeBrothers.com

Come Again

1 teaspoon Fee’s Peach Bitters
1 1/2 ounces gin

Shake bitters and gin with ice. Strain into a 3-ounce cocktail glass. Garnish with 2 mint sprigs.

Makes 1 cocktail.

From FeeBrothers.com

Corey Morris mixes cocktails at the launch of the first San Antonio Cocktail Conference.

Can you make a perfectly dry martini? Do you know how to make a margarita that achieves the right balance of natural sweetness and tartness? Do you know how to modify a classic cocktail when using the cucumber-flavored Hendrick’s Gin instead of a regular gin?

The Business 2 ounces Hendrick's Gin 3/4 ounce honey syrup 1/2 ounce fresh lime juice Place all of the ingredients in an ice-filled shaker. Shake until cold and pour into a cocktail class. Garnish with a slice of lime or cucumber, if desired.

Anyone who loves a finely crafted cocktail knows that it takes plenty of studying to get the right mix.

But it also begs another question: Can you think of any studies that are more flavorful and more conducive to partying?

That’s the format of the first San Antonio Cocktail Conference, which kicked off Thursday night with, appropriately enough, a cocktail party.

Chef Mark Bohanan, a driving force behind the conference, opened the bar at his Houston Street place to more than 350 cocktail lovers. The crowd  went from the luxurious interior, where a jazz combo kept things lively, to the neighboring patio.

The balmy January evening was perfect for traveling among the various tables where patrons could drink cocktails made with the likes of tequila, vodka, gin, Cognac and Champagne as well as such flavorings as coconut, ginger, lime and honey.

The whole conference is a fund-raiser for HeartGift, a local charity that provides medical assistance to children from around the world in need of heart surgery.

The overflowing crowd put a big smile on Mark Bohanan’s face. It must also be gratifying to know that some of the seminars today and Saturday have sold out. (For a schedule of events, including river cruises, parties at SoHo, Ocho and the Esquire Tavern, and Sunday brunch at the Sheraton Gunter, click here.)

More than 350 fill Bohanan's for the inaugural event of the San Antonio Cocktail Conference.

Corey Morris, a bartender at Bohanan’s, offered a few tips for making a good cocktail at home:

• Make sure your ingredients are good. You can taste it when they’re not.
• Make sure you use good ice. Ice with an off flavor can affect your drink.
• Don’t shake your drink too much. Ice that melts too soon can water down your drink.

That’s just a taste of what’s to come over the next few days, including sessions in  Forgotten Cocktails, the Wonderful World of Gin and the homegrown Lone Star Cocktails.

While working at Bohanan’s, Morris has studied under several master mixologists, including the internationally regarded Sasha Petraske of Milk & Honey. Petraske is just one of the people who will be leading seminars, which means that anyone with passion for making perfect cocktails can learn what bartenders know. Or you can just sit back and absorb the intoxicating atmosphere that’s marking the inaugural cocktail conference.

Eternal Bliss

In celebration of the San Antonio Cocktail Conference, here are three cocktails to wet your whistle.

Eternal Bliss

Eddie V’s of Austin is serving this seductive sweetie just in time of Valentine’s Day.

2 strawberries
2 ounces Hendrick’s Gin
1 ounce St. Germain elderflower liqueur
3/4 ounce fresh lemon juice
1/4 ounce simple syrup
Rosé sparkling wine
Mint, for garnish
½ strawberry, sliced, for garnish

Build this cocktail in a shaker tin

Muddle strawberries.

Add ice, gin, elderflower liqueur, lemon juice, and simple syrup. Shake and pour into a rocks glass

Float a splash of rosé sparkling wine on top.

Garnish with a sprig of mint and a cut ½ strawberry.

Makes 1 cocktail.

From Eddie V’s

Cherry Margarcia

Cotton, a restaurant in Manchester, N.H., offers the following tips for making better martinis:

• Chill your martini glass by filling it with ice cubes and water an letting it sit while you make the martini.
• Fill a cocktail shaker with ice, then add all the liquid ingredients and skaes vigorously.
• Empty the ice and water from the martini glass
• Rim the glass with the appropriate rimmer — sugar, salt, etc.
• Strain the contents of the cocktail shaker into the chilled martini glass.
• Garnish and serve.

This margarita variation uses a splash of maraschino juice. You can also add lime, if you like.

2 ounces Patrón Silver tequila
1 ounce triple sec
1 ounce sour mix
Splash of maraschino cherry juice from a jar of cherries

You can certainly use whichever tequila you prepare and can also substitute Cointreau for triple sec. Fresh cherries make a nice garnish.

Mix the tequila, triple sec, sour mix and maraschino cherry juice in an ice-filled shaker. Pour into an iced martini glass rimmed with sugar.

Makes 1 cocktail.

From “Cotton’s: The Cookbook” by Jeffrey Paige

Limoncello and Mint Sparkler

“Limoncello, a liqueur made by steeping lemon peels in a neutral spirit, has long been a staple in the lemon-producing region along Italy’s Amalfi Coast, where it is usually served well chilled in the summer months. It offers even more of a lift when infused with mint and mixed with club soda and fresh lemon juice,” according to “Gourmet Today” edited by Ruth Reichl.

1 cup loosely packed fresh mint leaves
8 ounces (1 cup) chilled limoncello
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice (from about 2 lemons)
3 cups chilled club soda
Ice cubes
Fresh mint sprigs, for garnish
Lemon slices, for garnish

Combine mint and limoncello in a bowl and bruise mint by gently mashing with a wooden spoon. Refrigerate, covered, for 1 hour.

Pour limoncello through a fine-mesh sieve into a pitcher, pressing firmly on mint; discard mint. Stir lemon juice and club soda into limoncello, then add enough ice to fill the pitcher. Pour drink and ice into six 8-ounce glasses. Garnish with mint sprigs and lemon slices.

Note: The strained limoncello-mint infusion can be refrigerated, covered, for up to 2 hours.

Makes 6 cocktail.

From “Gourmet Today” edited by Ruth Reichl

The hustle of the holiday season is over, but that doesn’t mean you have to stay home. Several Hill Country wineries are offering events to tempt your taste buds.

Jazz at Chisholm Trail

Chisholm Trail Winery,  2367 Usener Road, Fredericksburg, is offering two events in January.  On Jan. 14, the winery will hold its annual Jazz in January event. The George Eychner Quartet will perform from 2 to 5 p.m. Listen to the smooth jazz while having some wine and lunch from the winery’s restaurant, the Oval Oven, featuring wood-fired gourmet pizza.

On Jan. 21, Chisholm Trail will be part of the Wine Road 290 Port and Pairings Event. Complimentary samples of Bourbon Orange Pecan Pie from the Fredericksburg Pie Company will be paired with the winery’s Port-style dessert wine, Almagres. The Oval Oven will also be open during normal winery hours.

For more information on Chisholm Trail, click here or call 830-990-2675. For more on the Wine Road 290 schedule, click here.

Winery U at Dry Comal Creek

The fourth annual Winery U at Dry Comal Creek Vineyards, 1741 Herbelin Road, New Braunfels, begins Jan. 14.

Sessions are held once a month on Saturday mornings, with each class focusing on a different aspect of wine “in as non-pretentious a way as allowed by law,” says instructor David King, who holds the Certified Specialist of Wine certificate from the Society of Wine Educators.  “We keep it fun and entertaining, because when you come right down to it, wine should be fun and entertaining. I talk for a while, and then we taste wine. Or in the case of the Food and Wine Pairings class, I talk very little and we eat and drink at lot.”

Here’s the lineup for the 2012 classes, subject to the water rising in the Dry Comal Creek:

• Jan. 14: Introduction to Wine
• Feb. 11: Texas Wines
• March 13: Decoding the Wine Label
• April 7: Growing Grapes and Making Wine
• May 19: Wines of France
• June 9: The Black Spanish Grape
• July 21: Sensory Evaluation
• Aug. 18: Wines of Spain and Italy
• Sept. 15: Sauvignon Blanc
• Oct. 20: Food and Wine Pairings
• Nov. 10: Wines of the Southern Hemisphere
• Dec. 8: Cabernet Sauvignon

Classes are $30 each, or $25 if four or more are purchased at once. For information and registration, click here.

Hill Top hosts Becker dinner

Hill Top Cafe, 10661 U.S. Highway 87, Fredericksburg, is hosting Richard and Bunny Becker at a dinner featuring a collection of Becker Vineyards wines from the Tallent vineyard and from Mason County. The dinner begins at 5 p.m. Jan. 29.

Reception wines include the 2011 Provençal and 2010 Reserve Grenache, followed by a first course of  Moroccan Red Lentil and Lamb Bessara with the 2010 Raven. Winter Salad with Bartlett Pears, Prosciutto and Fresh Texas Goat Cheese will be paired with the 2010 Albariño, followed by  Steamed Gulf Prawns with Sweet Ginger, Curry and Scallions and the 2011 Pinot Grigio.  Braised Texas Dry-aged Beef Short Ribs in Puff Pastry with Winter Vegetables and the 2009 Raven will be served before a dessert of El Rey Dark Chocolate Hazelnut Cake with Chantilly Cream and Becker Vineyards’ 2010 Vintage Port.

The cost is $75 a person plus tax and tip. Call 830-997-8922 or email reservation@hilltopcafe.com.

Barriba Cantina is serving up some Holiday Cheer.

In need of some Christmas spirits? Then check out the Holiday Cheer cocktail menu at Barriba Cantina, 111 Crockett St., above the County Line.

The menu will last until spring and includes some potent potables, including:

• Tuaca Lemon Drop Martini — Lemon- and sugar-infused Skyy Vodka with a touch of Tuaca, $11.
• Mango Loco — Republic Sliver Organic Tequila, Patron Citronge, mango, Tabasco and simple syrup, $8.75.
• La Guapa (aka Sexy Girl) —  100 Proof Dulce Vida Organic Tequila, Amaretto, grapefruit juice, ginger beer and cayenne pepper, $8.
• Spiced Apple Manhattan — Apple- and cinnamon-infused Jim Beam, sweet Vermouth, Goldschlager and Angostura Bitters, $9.25.
• Hot Apple Toddy — Apple- and cinnamon-infused Jim Beam and apple cider, $6.50.
• Diosa Verde (aka Green Goddess) — Blended Bacardi Rum, avocado, half and half, lime juice and simple syrup, $8.
• Chocolate Razz Martini — Stoli Razberi Vodka, Bailey’s and Crème de Cacao, $11.
• Ambrosia Martini — Stoli Vanilla Vodka, Frangelico, grapes, pineapple, lime juice and simple syrup, $9.50.
• Pomegranate Fizz —  Pomegranate-infused Beefeater Gin and elderflower liqueur, topped with Champagne, $8.

Barriba Cantina is open daily from 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. That includes New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day with no cover charge or reservations needed. Call 210-228-9876.

With a little help from talented friends in the restaurant industry, WB Liquors, located in the Colonnade at 9801 IH 10 West at Wurzbach Road, will be bringing the flavors from some of San Antonio’s most creative commercial kitchens and melding them with the creative output of the bar.

Savory Saturday at the WB will feature some of the Alamo city’s top chefs pairing cocktails, brews and wines with their culinary creations. The first Savory Saturday will be this coming weekend, on Saturday from 2-4 p.m.

Jeremy Gibbony, executive chef at Drew's American Grill.

The featured chef will be Jeremy Gibboney of Drew’s American Grill. Pastry Chef Melissa Beverage and sommelier and mixologist Robert Millican will join him.

Drew Glick, partner in the new eatery that just opened three weeks ago in Stone Oak will lead the team in a food pairing discussion featuring demonstration and tasting.

Trends seen in a growing number of restaurants and bars today have created a favorable environment for the pairing of food and spirits. The popularity of small plates, tapas and sliders give greater opportunity for multiple tastings paired with diverse cocktail experiences.

A tailgate party is scheduled after the Savory event, from 4-7 p.m. as well. Take this opportunity to meet Rebecca Creek Distilleries’ co-owner Mike Cameron and have one of the first bottles of the new Rebecca Creek Fine Texas Whiskey autographed.

Door prizes with no purchase necessary will be awarded throughout the day including private tours of Rebecca Creek Distillery, tour and overnight stay at a Hill Country bed and breakfast courtesy of Becker Vineyards, a $150 gift certificate to Drew’s American Grill in Stone Oak and a drawing for a Big Green Egg Grill.

“We are delighted to host such culinary artisans at WB Liquors in an educational and informative pairing of food and beverage,” said WB’s president John Hermann.

Each chef will be given a wine, beer or spirit to incorporate into food preparation or to pair with a dish of their choosing. Chefs Gibboney and Beverage will be working with Rebecca Creek Fine Texas Whiskey, a new product being produced here in San Antonio at Rebecca Creek Distillery. Mixologist Millican will be creating a spirited beverage using the whiskey and share the exclusive cocktail recipe – printed on WB cocktail cards – with patrons attending Savory Saturday.

Rebecca Creek Whiskey featured at Savory Saturdays this weekend.

The Rebecca Creek Fine Texas Whiskey is produced from natural, local barley and limestone-filtered water before being distilled in copper tanks and matured charred oak for maximum effect.

“We’re everything Texas here. When it’s possible, we use Texas products. Our grain comes from Texas, our bottles are from San Antonio, and our company vehicles are manufactured in Texas. We know Texans are loyal to Texan products. There’s a lot of loyalty here,” said Steve Ison, CEO of Rebecca Creek Distillery.

DrinkLocalWine’s fourth annual Drink Regional Wine Week is now under way.

The purpose of the program is to help get wine drinkers to try something local. And to make the experience of becoming a locapour even more rewarding, the organization is have a contest during the week.

Everyone (over the age of 21, that is) is invited to submit stories or anecdotes about their local pour in 47 words or less.

DrinkLocalWine’s 47 Words Contest ends at midnight ET Saturday, Oct. 15.

The rules are simple: write 47 words following the theme that there are hidden gems among the other 47 wine producing states (that is, those states outside California, Oregon and Washington). If you know one of those gems, whether it’s a wine, a producer or a region, tell us about it in 47 words. Entries can be emailed to drinklocalwine@gmail.com.

DrinkLocalWine board members will select winners based on creativeness, inventiveness and whether they’re 47 words long. Prizes for the winners include:

• Tickets to DLW 2012: Colorado the fourth annual regional wine conference in Denver in April 2012;
• Autographed copies of Todd Kliman’s best-selling book, The Wild Vine;
• Copies of The Sipping Point, written by Laurie Forster, The Wine Coach, as well as two combo packs of the book and her DVD; and
• Packages of Wine Shields, the innovative way to preserve open wine.

For information about Regional Wine Week, the essay contest, or to submit a story link, call 978-276-9463 or email the above address. For more on DrinkLocalWine, click here.

By Cecil Flentge

You’ve loved it on Italian menus, and maybe even made it yourself. Now that the weather shows a slim promise of cooling, let’s talk about a  hearty Italian stew.

Meaty veal shanks are the main ingredient in osso buco.

Ossobuco or osso buco (sometimes seen as “bucco”) is Italian for “bone with a hole” (osso bone, buco hole) or “marrowbone”, both a reference to the marrow hole at the center of the cross-cut veal shank.

The original version is ‘ossobuco in bianco’ (Osso Buco with White Sauce), which does not use tomatoes. Then there are many modern versions that do use tomatoes, simply called Osso Buco. But time marches on and it is now quite common to find this dish made with pork shanks (whole or cross-cut), lamb shanks or cross-cut legs of beef or venison.  There is even a movie named Osso Buco.

No matter how you approach it, Osso Buco is the ‘black tie and tails’ version of a pot roast, so it is easy to do though it takes some time.

Osso Buco with Tomatoes, Olives and Gremolata (Recipe)

But what wine?  So many will work, both white and red, and it does vary with the type of Osso Buco.  No matter what country a recipe originates, you will find the same countries wines will be a safe bet.  All of these wines will make you happy with your Osso Buco, as well-matched wine and food always will — so on with the Italians!

La Maia Lina Chianti Classico, Tuscany 2008:
The little pig on the label does not tell you ‘buy me’, but you should.  CostCo for $11.

Fact: Sangiovese is the primary grape for Chianti and this medium red-colored example shows why they never will change.  A ripe cherry nose with cedar and a whiff of raspberries.  The palate echoes the cherry, blended with a ripe plum, and enough tangy acidity to keep it all fresh.  After it has been open 30 minutes you get a little aroma of black raspberry jam.  The finish trails a bit with cherry, mineral and plum.

Feelings: This is why I like drinking wine.  You can open this one and have a glass while you cook your Osso Buco, while you dine, while you clean up, and relaxing with a book before bedtime.  If you follow this outline you will probably be ready for bedtime!

Sasso al Poggio, from Piccini winery, Tuscany 2004
The 2004 is the current vintage of this ‘Super Tuscan’ offered at CostCo for $13.  An excellent opportunity to see how wines develop with some age.

Fact:  Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet bring the red color, age brings the caramelized pear color, and together they made a lovely brick red.  Vibrant cherry, plum, and wild strawberry on the nose with smoky, earthy undertones.  Cherry, mushrooms and an almost meaty component blends with toasty notes for your palate.  Deep black cherry served on wood-baked bread linger with the minerality on the finish.

Feelings:  Use the good china and polish the silver.  Drag out that tablecloth and light some candles, open the wine a few minutes before you serve that rich and fragrant dish.  Let the wine tell you stories of Italy, the scent of wild oregano and the statues hidden in marble, as you dine.

Ramitello, Biferno, from Di Majo Norante 2008
From the Molise region, about 200 miles east of Rome.  Super value for $11 at CostCo.

Fact: Dark garnet red in color, there is black cherry with a touch of aged woodpile in the enticing aroma.  Tasting brings forth cherry, coffee, mineral-earth and a bit of green Poblano pepper. The acidity works well to keep the wine interesting and the finish leaves you with dried cherries and coffee.

Feeling: This wine demands attention.  It is like your friend that you have spirited conversations with over dinner, you look forward to the experience.

Ruffino, Modus, Tuscany 2006 
Another of the ‘Super Tuscans’ with Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet available for $20.

Fact: An attractive and dramatic label enfolds a dark red wine from a well known winery.  Dark cherry, graphite, and cedar were pleasantly presented in the aroma with earthy accent.  The first taste repeated the cherry and cedar while later there was more of the minerally graphite and a little vegetal seasoning.  Tannins were chewy in this full-bodied red, but all were balanced.  One note is to decant this wine twice before serving to awaken the scents and flavors.  Alternatively, buy a couple and put them away for two or three years to see how it matures.

Feeling: Somewhat akin to petting a tiger.  You can feel the warmth and see the beauty, yet the power is still leashed.  Be patient, it will relax as you do.

Caparzo, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 1998 
Locally, the 2004 vintage is available at Gabriels Superstore for $49 and is rated as highly as the 1998, though it may be more approachable after 2012.

Fact: When first opened there was a toast, black cherry, dried strawberry nose.  A few minutes later that was joined by warm red soil and raked Fall leaves.  The flavors of red berries, soft tannins, and rich minerals coat your palate.  It stays rich and flavorful through the finish, the cherry blending with espresso and chocolate.

Feeling: Ah, your favorite Aunt that always told those wonderful stories!  That is what this wine mimics as it tells different stories to your palate and nose, weaving its magic into your dinnertime, sorely missed when it has gone.

Cecil Flentge is a San Antonio wine educator for professionals or novices and a cooking instructor. Restaurant events or home tastings.  Questions? Email cecil@wine2you.com

The Jeffery

Bartender Robert Carrillo of the Westin La Cantera Resort, 16641 La Cantera Parkway, has been named by Absolut Vodka as the maker of the best Bloody Mary in San Antonio.

The local competition is part of a national search to find the Best Absolut Bloody Mary in each of the 50 states, which leads to a finale competition in New York, where the Best Absolut Bloody in America will be decided.

To help drive support for Carrillo’s creation in the state competition, his version of the drink dubbed the Jeffery, will be featured at the Westin’s restaurant, Francesca’s at Sunset, during its Sunday brunch. Every Sunday in October from 10:30 a.m.  to 2 p.m., diners can taste the drink for free and vote online on Absolut’s Facebook page, Best Bloody in America — Absolut.

Carrillo created his version after trying the Westin’s clear gazpacho soup. His drink features Absolut Vodka, of course, as well as lime juice, basil leaves and Tabasco. It is muddled and shaken up with house made spicy clear tomato juice and served with red tomato ice cubes.

For more information on the brunch at Francesca’s, call 210-558-6500.

The Jeffery

½ ounces lime juice
3-4 Basil Leaves
2 ounces Absolut Vodka
Dash of Tabasco, or to taste
4 ounces Clear Tomato Juice (see recipe below)
Ice
Chile salt
Tomato Juice Ice (recipe below)
Basil leaves, olives and celery ribs (for garnish)

In a mixing cocktail tin, muddle lime juice, basil, vodka and Tabasco together. Add Clear Tomato Juice and ice. Shake well.

Moisten the rim of a tall glass and dip in chile salt (a mixture of chile powder and salt). Add Tomato Juice Ice, alternating with regular, water-based ice to fill glass.

Strain contents from mixing tin into tall glass.

Garnish with basil leaf, olive and celery.

Makes 1 cocktail

Clear Tomato Juice

2 jalapeños
1 clove garlic
2 celery ribs
½ medium onion
4 large tomatoes
5 dashes of Tabasco
5 dashes of white Worcestershire sauce

In a blender, mix jalapeños, garlic, celery, onion, tomatoes, Tabasco and Worchestershire. Purée ingredients thoroughly.

Filter puréed mush through five coffee filters until resulting juice is clear.

Makes 16 ounces.

Tomato Juice Ice

32 ounces tomato juice
½ ounce lime juice
½ ounce Tabasco

Mix tomato juice, lime juice and Tabasco. Pour into ice cube trays or molds place in freezer until frozen.

From Robert Carillo/The Westin La Cantera