Saffron threads suffuse food with a dusky, exotic flavor and golden color.

Q. I love the color and flavor of saffron, especially in paella, but it’s expensive. Can you substitute other seasonings when it is called for in a dish, such as achiote or turmeric?     — K.W.

A. Saffron is one of the world’s more exotic flavorings, used since ancient times and difficult to harvest. The thin threads are pricey, but the flavor is really what makes it all worth it. It has a dusky perfume that suffuses anything from delicate rice dishes or hearty stews. It’s delicious with fish or chicken and a perfect seasoning for slow-simmered lentils or garbanzo beans.

If it is just a pale golden or slightly orange color you want to impart to food, and all you have on hand is turmeric, a pinch or two of this less-expensive spice, in dried form, is OK to use. Fresh turmeric (from the rhizome, part of the root system, of a tropical plant) has a more pungent flavor, and is good on its own terms, not just as a substitute for saffron.

Achiote (from annatto seeds, from a tropical evergreen plant)  is mild in flavor but will yield a more reddish-orange color. It is used to color some cheeses, for instance, as an alternative to artificial colorings that might cause allergic reactions.

The reason for saffron’s expense is first that while the saffron crocus grows in places throughout the planet, it doesn’t grow just anywhere. The stigma, or threads that are the female part of the plant’s reproductive system, must be painstakingly hand-harvested from the blossom of a type of crocus plant. But a little saffron goes a long way, and it’s a valued addition to any good cook’s spice cabinet.

Photograph by Bonnie Walker

Ceramic bowls are non-reactive.

Q. What is a non-reactive bowl? And how do I know if my bowls are non-reactive?

A. When you’re using acid in your food, the bowl you are using to stir everything together should not add to the flavor of what you’re making. But often this is the case, if you’re using the wrong metal or plastic bowl. That’s why some cookbook authors and chefs are quick to point out that you should use a non-reactive bowl when making certain recipes.

Glass and ceramic are both virtually safe, as are stainless steel bowls.

Think of this the next time you’re mixing up something with a strong acid, such as vinegar or lemon juice.

For more information, check out an article about the subject on WiseGeek.com.

If you have a question for Ask a Foodie, click here.

Q. At the market recently I found some tiny eggplants and bought them because they looked good.  I have had them before in Thai curry dishes. What else can you do with them?    — D. H.

A. These baby eggplants, the size of large hen or duck eggs, are tempting — they’re glossy, deep purple and identical to the large eggplant in shape.  A Thai curry might contain slices of these, but usually Thai eggplant is used. These are glossy and small, but green.

The little purple eggplants have a mellow flavor that tastes good in a curry or a stir-fry. I’ve sliced and sautéed them and put them in a casserole with tomato sauce and cheese, just as you would using larger eggplant. Slice them and stir fry with shrimp, snow peas and garlic, and add a little hoisin sauce for a simple and quick dish. I’ve also sliced them and sautéed with onions, peppers and other vegetables to stuff into a pita sandwich.

Did you know that you can “sex” an eggplant? Here’s how, from Cook’s Thesaurus:

“Male eggplants tend to have fewer seeds, and are therefore less bitter than female eggplants.  To sex an eggplant, look at the indentation at bottom.  If  it’s deep and shaped like a dash, it’s a female.  If it’s shallow and round, it’s a male.  Smaller eggplants also tend to be less bitter.   Freshness is important, so don’t store them for very long.”

Q. Why does ice cream make you thirsty?

Drinking ice cream, which is full of sugar, often sends us looking for a glass of water.

A. I always figured that it was the sugar in ice cream that made us head for a glass of water after having an ice cream cone or bowl of ice cream.  A look at medical and (quasi-medical) sites on the Web bore this out, for the most part. But some also note that there is salt in ice cream and in cones as well, and salty foods induce thirst, too.

Some of the comments on this question theorized that we go for water to rinse our mouths of any remaining milk fat.  Whatever the reason, it seems to be a widespread response to eating ice cream. Most ice cream shops, if you notice, have a water fountain somewhere on the premises.

For a roundup of ice cream recipes and ideas from the SavorSA archives, click here.

Infuse your brandy with the flavor of peaches.

Q. How would I go about making peach brandy?

- Bruce V.

A. Peaches are plentiful this season, and they can be used for a variety of old-fashioned treats, including pie, ice cream, even tiramisú. But why stop there? Infuse your favorite liqueur with the summer fruit, and you’ll be able to savor it all year long.

I found a recipe for Peach Liqueur in the book “Infused: 100+ Recipes for Infused Liqueurs and Cocktails” by Susan Elia MacNeal, who offers a basic recipe for instilling the flavor in a host of distilled drinks, including brandy, vodka, rum, tequila or Cognac.

Peach Liqueur

1 (750-milliliter) bottle brandy, vodka, rum, tequila or Cognac
12 peaches
1/4 to 1 cup simple syrup or agave nectar, optional

Decant the spirits into a clean 2-quart (2-liter) glass container with a tight-fitting lid. Soak the original bottle to remove the label. Let dry.

Cut the peaches in half and thinly slice. Add the peaches and their pits to the spirits. Allow the spirits to infuse away from direct sunlight and intense heat for 1 month. Shake the container a few times each week.

When you’re satisfied with the intensity of flavor, strain the liqueur through a metal sieve into a bowl. Discard the solids. Add the sugar syrup to taste, if desired.

Using a funnel, pour the liqueur into the original bottle (or another container). Label with the name of the liqueur and the date. Age the liqueur for 1 month away from light and heat.

Variations: Use your favorite honey in place of the sugar syrup. Add 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, the zest of 1/2 lemon, or 6 whole cloves with the peaches.

Makes 1 (750-milliliter) bottle.

Source: “Infused: 100+ Recipes for Infused Liqueurs and Cocktails” by Susan Elia MacNeal

If you have a question for Ask a Foodie, e-mail info@savorsa.com.

Salmon can be prepared in many wonderful ways.

Q. What’s your favorite way to cook salmon?

— Janet U.

A. Salmon can be enjoyed in many different ways, from smoked to cooked on a cedar plank. I generally search out wild-caught salmon when I go to cook it, because the flavor is stronger and brighter than the farm-raised. If that’s too fishy for you, then seek out the farm-raised.

I once tried a recipe of Jamie Oliver’s that had you wrap salmon in slices of prosciutto, before popping them in the oven. Then you topped the fish with lentils before serving. I’ve done several variations on that since, because I’m one of those who rarely makes a recipe twice. It’s the thrill of finding or tasting something new that usually interests me.

That said, here’s the next salmon recipe I’ll be trying. It’s from Rick Bayless’ “Everyday Mexican” (W.W. Norton & Co., $29.95), and it sounds perfect for a summer picnic. The salsa can be used in a variety of dishes or by itself.

Pasta with Roasted Tomatillos and Salmon

Tomatillo Salsa:
4 medium (about 8 ounces) tomatillos, husked, rinsed and halved
2 large garlic cloves, peeled
Hot green chiles, to taste, stemmed and roughly chopped (Bayless likes 2 serranos or 1 jalapeño)
About 1/2 cup loosely packed, roughly chopped cilantro
1/2 small white onion, finely chopped
Salt, to taste

12 ounces pasta
2 cups coarsely shredded salmon or cooked chicken (see note)
1 generous cup grated queso añejo or Parmesan, plus more for garnish
Chopped cilantro, for garnish
Wedges of lime, for garnish

To make the salsa: Set a large (10-inch) non-stick skillet over medium-high heat (if you don’t have a non-stick skillet, lay in a piece of foil). Lay in the tomatillos, cut side down, and garlic. When the tomatillos are well browned, 3 or 4 minutes, turn everything over and brown the other side. (The tomatillos should be completely soft.)

Scrape the tomatillos and garlic into a blender or food processor. Let cool 3 to 4 minutes. Add the chiles, cilantro and 1/4 cup water. Blend to a coarse purée. Thin with a little additional water if necessary to give the salsa an easily spreadable consistency.

Scoop the chopped onion into a strainer and rinse under cold water. Stir into the salsa. Taste and season with salt, usually about 1/2 teaspoon. Keep warm if using with pasta.

For the pasta dish: Put on a pot of water to boil, then make the salsa, without letting the ingredients cool. Boil pasta (fusilli or shells are good choices) in salted water until al dente.  Drain, reserving 1/4 cup of the cooking liquid. Return the pasta to the pot, and add the salsa, the reserved cooking liquid and 2 cups coarsely shredded salmon or chicken. Sprinkle on a generous cup grated Mexican queso añejo or Parmesan, toss and serve with chopped cilantro, extra cheese and a few edges of lime for each hungry eater to add to his or her liking. Wonderful at room temperature for a picnic.

Note: Bayless likes to use pepper-coated hot-smoked salmon or rotisserie chicken that’s easy to flake.

Makes 2-3 main-course servings or 4-6 side dish servings.

Source: “Mexican Everyday” by Rick Bayless

If you have a question for Ask a Foodie, e-mail info@savorsa.com.

Cheddar cheese curds

Q: Do you know of any place in San Antonio where one can find cheese curds? I’m looking for unfried, just plain cheese curds.

- C.H.

A: You can find cheese curds at several stores around town, including all locations of Sun Harvest. Central Market, 4821 Broadway, offers them on occasion (call 210-368-8600 first), while the folks at Culver’s, 5836 DeZavala, say they will sell them to you uncooked if you like.

At Culver’s, you can order Dairyland Cheese Curds at any time. “Real dairy fresh white and yellow cheddar cheese curds breaded and cooked to a gooey, cheesy golden brown,” its website says. “These curds are made in Wisconsin just for Culver’s!”

For those unfamiliar with them, cheese curds are “the solid parts of soured milk used in various regional dishes, mostly in Canada and the northeastern United States,” according to Wikipedia. Use them quickly because their freshness is fleeting.

I first heard about them in a Quebec dish called poutine, in which french fries are covered with cheese curds and then topped with brown gravy and, as Wikipedia says, “sometimes additional ingredients.” I haven’t tried this regional specialty yet, but here’s a link to a recipe just in case you want to make a batch for yourself.

Most of us know the term curds from the children’s poem, “Little Miss Muffet.” According to the Maple Leaf Cheese package, “Some of us believe Little Miss Muffet and the spider symbolize Mary, Queen of Scots (1542-1587), and John Knox (1505-1572), a minister who wanted to scare her off the throne due to religious differences. Another story attributes the origin of this nursery rhyme to Dr. Thomas Muffet (1553-1604), an entomologist who wrote the first sciencific catalog of British native insects. It is believed the poem, ‘Little Miss Muffet,’ was written for his stepdaughter, Patience, who, much to Mr. Muffet’s dismay, didn’t like spiders.”

If you have a question for Ask a Foodie, e-mail info@savorsa.com.

If you’re going to take advantage of the bounteous crop of Texas Hill Country peaches this season, but don’t want to can them all, freeze them instead. Peaches frozen this way will taste just like fresh, say the authors.

Here’s how, from Taste of Home magazine:

1. Use whole, unblemished completely ripe peaches.

Freeze peaches whole to keep their flavor and freshness.

2. Arrange whole peaches on a cookie sheet and place in freezer (they did not wash them first).

3. After peaches have frozen solid, place them in a plastic bag.

4. When you are ready to use, removed the desired number of peaches from the bag, run cold water over frozen peach and slip off the skin.

5. Microwave for 10 to 15 seconds.

6. Slice peaches to use as you desire for cereal toppings, pies or cobbler, ice cream, or simply slice them, add a little sugar if needed and enjoy.

From: Taste of Home

Recipe for Peach Ice Cream

Q. I am wondering if you could lead me and my friends in the direction of some good burgers on the northwest side of San Antonio? That is, in the general area north and west of Highway 281 and Loop 1604.

Bigz Burger Joint offers plenty of different cheeses and toppings for their burgers.

A. That we can. Readers, feel free to add some suggestions to ours, and tell us why you love ‘em.

In the general area you are talking about, we like Gourmet Burger Grill, 18414 U.S. 281 N., and Red Robin Gourmet Burgers, 17403 W. I-10 and 1750 N. Loop 1604 E (which may be east of U.S. 281, but just barely). Gourmet Burger Grill is locally owned and also has a location on Huebner Road near Interstate 10.  Red Robin is a chain, but both will satisfy that need for a juicy burger quite well.

On Loop 1604 also check out Big’z Burger Joint, at 2303 N. Loop 1604 W. Look for Big’z on the north side of the road, as you head west from U.S. 281. It’s housed in a big red barn-like place. All three of these restaurants are kid-friendly, too.

We’ve found things to like and dislike at one of San Antonio’s homegrown burger joints, Longhorn Cafe. But, we acknowledge that plenty of other burger connoisseurs like the burgers here. Especially popular at the 17625 Blanco Road location, a half mile south of the loop.

Rosario's Shrimp Nachos are good for an appetizer or a meal.

Q. I’m visiting from out of town and am a real foodie. I’m interested in places near the Convention Center that I can either walk to or take a short cab ride.  Thanks.  — C.Z.

A. The famous local food, as you probably know, is Tex-Mex, but San Antonio other good things to offer in or near downtown. On the River Walk, we recommend Biga on the Banks (high end, not Tex-Mex), or for contemporary, leaning to French, try Fig Tree with its edenic patio cascading down to the water.  Also on the river is Ácenar, with its mod ambience and authentic Mexican dishes. Las Canarias at the Mansion del Rio  (contemporary American) is good, as is Boudro’s for a taste of Texas with a Southwestern touch.

Another high-end steak place to try might be Bohanan’s. On Houston Street, a bit of a walk, or short cab ride.

A smaller restaurant that has been near downtown a long time and is very popular, you’d want a cab for. That’s El Mirador. A little further in a cab in that general direction is a colorful place we like to take out of town guests,  Rosario’s Cafe y Cantina. If you like margaritas, definitely try one here. In the same neighborhood is La Frite, a Belgian bistro, and Azuca with its pan-Latin dishes.

Restaurant Insignia, in the Fairmount Hotel across the street from the convention center, is great for lunch or dinner, if you’re looking for something as fun as a brisket burger with garlic fries or the San Antonio pizza.

At Market Square downtown, where you can buy lots of Mexican crafts and souvenirs and so forth, is Mi Tierra, a huge Mexican restaurant with decent food and a big, showy bakery full of Mexican sweets and breads. Mariachis stroll the aisles and it’s fun. It’s also open 24/7.

There are many more good restaurants to walk to, so don’t hesitate to contact SavorSA again if you want more ideas, when you get here.